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About masjstovel

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  1. Got the 3D-printed Bahtinov mask today. Had to secure myself in both ends so both the flaps and the screw-holes. The flaps fitted perfectly. Now i just have to wait for clear skies to see if it works:)
  2. I have a laptop yes, so i will take it outdoors while doing this operation with the Bathinov! Well my girlfriend is shouting too, but that shouting is not related to focusing. Rather all this gear i've bought after i got her blessing for "buying a small telescope" 6 months ago Thanks for your reply. What do you mean by the above? focus mode? I'm sorry I havent recieved the camera yet so i dont know. I'll post my results when they are not too emberrasing
  3. @carastro and @tooth_dr Ah now i understand, you have a computer with the scope which you "mirror" to the computer inside?
  4. Thans alot @carastro! I like the plastic-box tip, i will arrange something like that as the plugs connecting to the cabledrum is fairly exposed as of now. I am not familiar with Teamviewer, but i see its some kind of app/program. What do you have connected to the scope to "talk" to the computer inside via Teamviewer?
  5. Thanks alot @teoria_del_big_bang, this is very informative and helpful for me, so i appreciate it alot! You mean splash-proof extension-cord or 12adaptor? The extension-cord is IP44 standard, so thats splash-proof with lids on it. I will definately look into the 12V 5A. plug size is 5.5mm x 2.1mm right? I've found several of these. What do you mean by this? I'm sorry, my english isnt 100% This was my intention yes. I dont understand the sollution with the HUB - can you explain how this would be? Wouldn't the HUB need to be connected back to the computer inside, and the cable-length still be a problem? Or you mean something like the ASIAIR? The current plan is to use a Bahtinov (my friend is 3D-printing one as there are so few astrogear-suppliers in Norway), and just go back and forth between scope and computer until i'm satisfied. Further down the line i will maybe go for an auto-focuser with software, but for now i feel i must start up with the equipment i have provided. The need for more gear never stops in this business I've learned
  6. Hi, Background: There will probably be too much information below, but my level of knowledge in electronics is unfortunately low. I own a EQ-5 - upgraded to pro with synscan, a SW 150pds and a SSAG guidecam on a 9x50. I bought this with the purpose of AP. I have my telescope on the porch, so i can sit inside with the PC (5m distance) and power everything from the socket in the wall inside. I live in Norway where there is 230V 50hz AC in the wall. I have understood most telescope equipment (?) is powered by 12v DC. The mount came with a 12V "car-connector" which im sure people are familiar with. But i didnt wish to use this, so instead i bought a plug (European), which the picture below shows. It is like a multipurpose plug where i can choose 12V and also choose different "pc-style" connectors in the other end. I am currently powering the mount via this plug to a 20m extension cord with 4 sockets. It's labeled "250V AC 50HZ". (picture below) I plug the USB3-powered SSAG straight to the computer. I plug the synscan controller to the computer with an adaptor to make it USB in the other end. So to the core of this post: I now have an ZWO ASI1600MM PRO (DC 12V 3A), with a 8 slot ZWO filter-wheel (USB2.0 powered - guess this connects to the camera). On its way. I also have a NEQ6 PRO on its way (12V 2A) - so no more EQ5 - but same power requirements. And lastly i have a HitecAstro 4 channel dew controller on its way (12V DC) - which i plan to use with a Omegon secondary mirror heating strap, SMALL (https://www.astroshop.eu/heater-bands-controls/omegon-secondary-mirror-heating-strip-small/p,56529#tab_bar_1_select), and maybe something else down the line. The strap uses 0,18amps the product specifications says. So....... With this setup, and from home like described: 1. -Plan is to use the 12v 2.25A adaptor-plug from the EQ5 on the NEQ6. -Buy another one just like it, for the dew-controller. I dont know what Ampere it needs, but the dew-strap is only 0,18A. -Buy a upgraded 12V 3A (or 5A) for the ZWO ASI1600 and 5m USB3.0 to PC. -Plug filterwheel to ZWO. -Plug guidecamera to PC as before - Or can this go straight to the ZWO? -Plug the EQ6 via the Synscan ST4(?) to USB 5m to the PC. So the mount, the ZWO and the dew-controller will go to the extension cord-cable drum outside which goes to the wall inside. The PC will go to the wall inside ofcourse. Can i do this? 2. If no: How should i do this?
  7. In balance as in not leveled or off in polarscope? presume both is pretty regular. Yes i am 100% sure there will be more issues to come! The negative thing with AP is that there are not so many "fix it by doing.." yet, but many "fix it by buying" I've learned alot from just this post. I thank you guys alot @RolandKol, @vlaiv, @kens and @Adam J !
  8. Haha i know.. it feels more like the start... Have an EQ-6 on the way as well. Should have listened to those begging me to not go for the EQ5.....
  9. Permanent? You have a foundation in addition to the EQ6? Nice to see have an insight in others workflow. I have because of time and weather used around 50hours (prediction) on youtube/forums for learning, but only around 10 hours with the actual equipment - And half of those on setup, aligning and calibrating roughly. Point is, naturally there is alot of tips & useful information that doesn't show through videos and articles i believe. I don't know if this 5 to 1 ratio on theory vs practice is healthy, but thats the story so far. If PHD calibration is not good, or guiding is not good, how do you troubleshoot? I see on the picture, but 6 o'clock like 90 degrees on the scope or paralel with scope? Also i don't have a coma-corrector, but i figure i need that from what i've read. Do i need additional adaptors for driving the ZWO through this?
  10. I bought the ZWO 1600MM Pro with 1.25" Filter-wheel, LRGB filters, and Narrowband filters now.. Please dont tell my girlfriend. As a bandage on the wound: My friend is 3D-printing a Bahtinov-mask for free ($1800 used - $20 saved :)
  11. Thank you, that is very useful to me. I saw your setup. Do we have the same focuser (except yours is modified)? Also, why the DSLR on the lower part of the scope? The normal procedure is to make a darks library which you always use, or do you take new darks every session? I am very curious in "start - to finish"-explanation regarding setup of hardware, and software, and workflow in general. I've seen alot (ALOT) of videos, but I feel most of them presumes you have alot of background knowledge allready. Is there any good ones around? (There is a fair chance i've already seen them)
  12. I must say I am impressed with your knowledge. I have to read through this a few times to understand it fully, but i think i understand the key points. Its the first time I've seen "derivation" and "simple" in the same sentence, btw @RolandKol, @vlaiv and @Adam J I took a look at my scope now and see i messed up. I DO have threaded adaptor, it was just not tightened all the way (ever since i bought the scope). Thats why it was slightly movable. (pictures attached). This means the tilt-problem is out of the picture for me? The focus-tube is tight, and the adaptor is tight (when screwed in). And RolandKol, I'm pretty much decided on the ZWO ASI 1600MM mono.
  13. Regarding over/undersampling. I think i get it in form of: "picture looks best with between 1-2"/px". The result says what is "covered" of target area per pixel? I tried transforming this rule to general photography just for fun. Nikon D810 sensor pixel size (or pixel pitch= distance from center of pixel to center of next pixel which is the same(?)) = 4,87μm. I also have a 14-24mm f/2.8 lens which i've used on s star adventurer mini for Milkyway photos. This gives me: (4,87 / 14mm) * 206.3 = 73,76"/px - waay undersampled? I understand widefield photography is a different ballgame though. Is this because the level of star-detail is irrelevant at these focal lengths? At what focal length spectre is this rule handy? Is the 206.3 number made as an average factor for DSO-imaging? Apologize for the question-bombing, but i found this interesting.
  14. Thanks alot for that excellent explanation! I understood the model. Wouldn't a ZWO filter-wheel be close enough to an ZWO camerasensor when its from the same manufacturer? I mean, without vignetting? Stitching would be great to try, but i imagine there has to be careful work with calibrated frames if the stitching is to look Natural. I mean no contrast between "core" and corners and so on - the frames must be totally even all over? This i am not sure i understand? what is oversampling? And about the binning. I may have misunderstood, but i thought binning was moving the frame some pixels back and forth to sort out different kind of distortions/errors in the frames? Wouldnt those still be there if i used binning for making bigger frames? Thanks @RolandKol! You habe an URL/name for a useful autofocuser in my case? It's almost funny - this "It would be cool to take a photo through a Telescope"-project never stops surprising me with must-have-gadgets :D. @RolandKol , @vlaiv and @AdamJ: Yes the inner adaptor-ring With the locking-screws is slightly moveable (<1mm). This is the issue you're addressing? Is it not fixable with just a toothpic pushed in between or something? Maybe im cursing in the church now, but…
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