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masjstovel

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About masjstovel

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    Nebula

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    Norway
  1. The synscan says 12v, so i have an adaptor with the correct 2.5mm pin and adjustable volt which i set to 12 and put it in the wall? Is this wrong? Ill look into sharocap.
  2. Hi Rob, and thanks for the reply. The process you describe is what i have done. I installed synscan goto upgrade kit a week ago ish, and when i do the 2-star align, is when the problems happen. The first star it goes to is pretty close, but needs small adjustments to center it. Ive chosen Vega then in east. Then when i goto the next star left again. Dont remember the name. The scope then goes haywire and points down in the ground almost. Guessing 30degrees off or something. Soo i figured i did something wrong with the alignment process. Thats why i started with all these videos and did, as you describe, overthink it. But now i dont know what is the problem. I can also mention that the scope bumps in the tripod legs sometimes when the synscan goes to a position. I look out for this and stop it but. Is there a way to programthe mount to go another way or something to avoid this? What is sharpcap pro?
  3. Hi, I'm a newbie and I've used a fair amount of hours on the web studying polar alignment now. I thought i had it after 30 minutes, but now several hours later i understand less than i did then. I have the EQ5-mount and the "new" sky-watcher polar alignment reticule, which represents a clock, but no Northern hemisphere constallations. I get the Polaris position from an app. It gives me a visual position in the clockwheel simular to the one in my polar scope. It also displays the Polaris position digitally (i.e. 01:37, which corresponds to the visual position on the clock). It gives me my local longitude (5* 15'E). Lastly it gives me the local time. From what i understand the "old" Polar reticules doesn't have the clock, but a small dot or circle on the bigger circle with constallations around it like the big dipper that you align visually with the actual big dipper, then align Polaris in the small circle? 1. The Polar alignment scope i have has a white marker line on it (Index marker ring). What do i use this for, and should it point in the 12'oclock position or do i turn on this at some time? 2. When i rotate the RA axis, the polar clock also rotate. Are the 6 o'clock position always supposed to point straight down, and 12 o'clock position always supposed to point straight up when i polar align or do i have to rotate the clock in relation to my position (longitude) or something? Like, do i have to calibrate the clockwheel orientation at any time to get accurate alignment or does always 6 point straight down like an actual clock? I dont mean calibrating to make the reticule calibrated by this, but turning around the clock reticule so that 6 o'clock is no longer in the 6 o'clock position. 3. Do i have to take in consideration that the view in the polar alignment scope is upside-down, or do i Place polaris identically like on the app? (SAM console is the app, and i downloaded it for my Sky-watcher adventurer mini). 4. The videos and articles i've read on this type of reticle also provides you a HA (Hour angle). Is the new reticle just a clock showing this HA? Or do I have to take HA in consideration in addition to aligning or is this polar clock really just showing the HA visually? 5. Some articles (this for instance: https://lonewolfonline.net/polar-alignment-equatorial-telescope-mount/ says that its important to know what date and time of the year the Polaris is at its highest altitude. Why is this important? 6. Videos and articles mentions that putting my telescope in "Home position" is important. Why is this? The polar alignment Scope is pointing the same way no matter where the telescope points. 7. As mentioned the app provides my local longitude. Is this important in the alignment process other than "Nice to know"? I welcome any answers!
  4. Ok I AM impressed:) Thanks again for the replies guys. I did a 2-star alignment. First i checked if the mount was leveled, and did a polar alignment as best i could. after the alignment it said i was 1 and some degrees off East, and 4 and some degree off North , which i dont understand why. I find it difficult to know if its Polaris i'm looking at or something else. Also my app puts it at about 2 o'clock in the "Polar-Wheel", but i dont how it is in the polar finder since the image is "mirrored" and all that. I copied what i saw on my app. I used Mizar and Vega for the 2-star alignment. When i chose Vega at first, the Scope went veeery far off. Like 130 degrees off, pointing down to the ground. This got me thinking of probably a very stupid question, but is there a right way and a wrong way to attach the scope, directionaly? i mean you have 2 options 180 degrees. After centering Vega, it moved to what i at least think was very close to Mizar, just had to calibrate it a little bit closer. But then when you say im 3 frames too low and to far to the right, then there must be something I'm doing wrong? Another thing that made me worry. If i released the RA and DEC locking knob, and turned on the scope, at some point the scope would crash in the tripod legs. It didn't happen but if i continued turning it would. The Synscan doesnt "know" this and stops and goes the other way around if its obstructed? Is this a common thing, or am i doing something wrong here too?
  5. Update: The 150PDS is in tha house now. I bought a "used" Synscan Goto Upgrade kit for approximately 220$ which i installed tonight. The neighbours must think i've gone mad if they saw me do the polar alignment, luckily its dark. I tried taking some shots (light frames) of the Pinwheel Galaxy, M101 just for testing. Tried 30sec exposures, 800, 1600 and 4000 ISO but i couldnt see the Galaxy at all. I thought i would see at least some traces of it. Was I off, or is it because of the light-pollution? I Attached some unedited jpeg's here. I would be impressed, but does anyone know if M101 would be in this frame, or which star this bright one is? I was on the porch stepping around, so they are alittle blurry.
  6. You were right! It works good now. Moon isnt up though so its based on bright stars.
  7. The mirrors out of focus or the view? The view is perfectly in focus, except the dead-center (because of the spider as you say). Im looking at some buildings +/- 3km away. If i move my eye around i can see everything perfectly focused, but its just this tiny blur in the center. Like it darkens a bit and gets a bit blurry. The black dot doing this i presume is the mirror in the middle of this spider. It's logic to me what you say, that i see the "spider" since its in the middle of the view, i just cant remember seeing the blur in the center the last time. I watched some minutes when it was sunset-ish, and not so bright as now and didn't notice it the last time. And when it went dark the moon was just mesmerizing and perfect. So, it's supposed to be like this in daylight? I feel a bit emberrased for asking these stupid questions, but still it made me wonder
  8. Thanks for a fast reply. So this ir relatively normal or? I will try again when its dark. The picture of the eyepiece is that black dot i was talking about, The "crosshair"-lines" is clearly visible when i watch with my eye from this distance, but is not visible on the picture. I am also sure now that it is the crosshair that makes it blurry in center.
  9. Hi, I have the scope mentioned in the topic with a 2" 28mm eyepiece. I recieved the scope just before easter and got to enjoy 20-30 minutes observing before i got back an hour ago. I recieved a T-ring for my Nikon D810 today and i removed the eyepiece and mounted the t-ring. Couldn't get it in focus so i removed another adaptor-ring-thingy attached to the focuser and then i got it to work. Sharp and good. This was just now and it's daytime for the record So far so good. Then i was to put back the eyepiece, and was a bit unsure how the assembly was because i have like alot of these different adaptor rings laying around. Some followed the Scope, and some followed with a photo-adaptor i bought for the projection method etc etc. Anyway, i got the eyepiece mounted again and i noticed i could see a black "dot" in the middle of the view when i had my eyes on a distance (~10-20cm). When i approached observed through the eyepiece i could see it was a little blurry in the center of the view - but focused around the center. So i figured its the crosshair or the big cross in the front of the telescope thats doing this. With the 20minute observing-experience i have in my backpack I am not sure if it was the same before i did this t-ring test and I just noticed it now in daylight or if its supposed to be like this or what? I dont think it was blurry in the center before easter when i observed the moon. Any inputs?
  10. @pregulla thanks for your reply. I'm not sure which eye-relief i prefer, since i havent seen through a scope yet. Fortunately i have perfect vision so i dont use glasses or anything like that. When Ithink about it I agree with you it seems like a smart thing to og for 8.8mm, 14mm and 25mm to not overlap too much. Well the thing is that there is customs to pay in addition when i buy elsewhere in Europe. It's no totally hopeless though because there is, i think, 25% customs, so i can save money in relation to Norwegian prices anyway. I mean a pint of beer costs $10 in this country... @mikeDnight i've seen different 1.25" Sky-Watcher 82deg eyepieces, but I cant remember the Nirvana name. Do they og under a different name too?
  11. Thanx alot for the advice @mikeDnight, @rwilkey and @pregulla I hear good Things about Baader, but I'm from Norway and there is like 3 retailers for astronomy merchendise, and none of them supply Baader eyepieces. @rwilkey: I've found ES82, 4.7mm, 6.7mm, 8.8mm, 11mm and 14mm for 1.25". Will that do you think, or is 82deg degrading the quality on this scope? In then thinking 4.7, 11mm and find a 24mm or go for another brand 24-25mm. Also, i wonder what 2X Barlow to buy. The Sky-Watcher 2X Barlow, is that worth it?
  12. Hi, Background: I've ordered, yet not recieved my first telescope, mentioned in the topic. I'm planning to do a bit AP, but will mainly use prime focus for that, but eyepieces good for the projection method is welcome as well. As i've never tried a telescope before, i guess i want to do planetary observation, lunar observation, nebulas, clusters, and pretty much you name it. If i can get away with some perfect eyepieces for a cheap price, I am happy, - but if it costs me to get something good, then i am prepared for that too. I dont get surprised of the prices anymore since my original budget on this new "hobby" has blewn out of proportion already anyways. "A telescope probably costs a couple of hundred bucks, can i please buy one" I told my girlfriend. 1000 bucks and 2 weeks later, here I sit with no eyepieces to see stuff in my fancy telescope that hasn't arrived. I've been reading/watching up on eyepieces the last week, and i seem to turn back to my start-position which is zero clue, no matter how much i study this subject. I've feel i've learned the most from this article: https://agenaastro.com/choosing-eyepieces-for-your-telescope.html#price According to the article, i've ended up with that i need: 2.5mm minimum 60deg AFOV = exit pupil 0.5mm, 300x magnification 10 mm minimum 60deg AFOV = exit pupil 2.0mm, 75x magnification 25 mm minimum 60deg AFOV = exit pupil 5.0mm, 30x magnification 2x Barlow Other articles suggests i can just forget about 300x magnification.. When I use the info i've learned from the different articles and youtube videos to find a specific eyepiece, then i see the reviews of them saying things like: '"The field edges get ragged quite quickly as the focal ratio drops below aorund F/7" "Works pretty good on a F/10, but…" All in all, i feel there is just alot of information floating around and only "it depends"-answers when trying to find anything specific. So I guess my question is; does anyone have any specific eyepieces to recommend for this specific scope, given what i stated in the beginning of the post? -Bjørn
  13. @Uranium235 Thanks for the input! Well unfortunately it's too late now, i ordered the package with an EQ-5 a little over a week ago :S I would love the HEQ5, but for me this "adventure" started out like; "I would love a telescope. Couldn't cost more than a couple of hundred dollars, could it?" "Ok, I need an equatorial mount. Couldn't cost more than a couple of hundred dollars more, could it?" "OK, the eq-mount isnt heavy enough……… And so on. So i had to set a limit somewhere. I will likely spend another $1000 dollars on a HEQ5 and sell my EQ5 for half the price i bought it for in the future, but its at least a calculated risk i am aware of:) I will look for for sale-adds for the HEQ5 mount, and go for it if the price is right! @Icesheet Wow, thanks, that's a really great offer! PM sent. I started thinking im the only one in Norway interested in this field. @Adam J As i mentioned to Uranium235, i've already ordered the 150PDS and the EQ-5. 150/750 will be F/5 so im in the right range at least? I do already own the D810 as i'm mainly doing photography from beforehand. You dont reccomend it because its full frame, or is there some other reason?
  14. Thank you. I THINK i understood what you were explaining. If i had a 43mm Eyepiece, it would have the same "magnification" as the Nikon, right?
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