3D Printers

[Gina]

Well the plywood sheets are not all the same size ?  Nor are the perfectly square   So I shall need my large T square (used for drafting in my university days).  One sheet is nearly 20mm smaller in one dimension than the rest.  Not too worrying as this can be the base and fit inside the other sheets.  BUT I need to check the base angles as I need the two sides to be exactly parallel as the Y rails will be attached to the side panel.  If the base isn't square it will take a lot more work to get the printer built.  Have to say, I'm disappointed as previously bought plywood has been perfectly cut.

This CAD model shows the box made up from 4 sheets of 610mm x 610mm x 18mm and it can be seen that the base sticks out a bit at the front.  In fact by the thickness of the sheets which is 18mm.

[Gina]

2 minutes ago, tekkydave said:

The first thing that dropped into my head when I thought of large/powerful with beauty/finesse was "Concorde"

Interesting thought - thanks Dave ?  No cord in this printer though ?  "Pink string and ceiling wax" almost describes my other printers ?  Pink fishing line cord and melted plastic parts.

[Gina]

Measured the smallest sheet and it's 610mm wide with parallel edges - phew!   Next is to measure up all the rest and find one that is exactly 610mm wide for the back...

[Gina]

PHEW...  Lucky!  Just one of the other three sheets was 610mm in one dimension as close as I could tell with a steel tape measure.  I wasn't expecting to have to "mix and match" my ply sheets to make a box but I think it's turned out alright.  The sides and back will have a "higgledy piggledy" top edge but it's for function rather than looks though I was hoping for good looks as well...

[Gina]

This isn't the complete box as the sides would not be stiff enough.  I plan to have solid timber rails across the top and bottom of the front.

[Gina]

I think you've won again Dave (as I recall you named my "Titan" printer) - I really like the name "Concorde" though the printer is short and fat rather than long and thin like Concorde.  Somehow the name Concorde seems to give a feeling or warmth and niceness.  I like other aspects too like "high flying" and super-sonic - speed and grace.  I'm hoping I can make this printer graceful and not an untidy mess!

[Gina]

I think I shall soon be in a position to create a Blog and stop hogging Louise's thread ?

[tekkydave]

12 minutes ago, Gina said:

I think you've won again Dave (as I recall you named my "Titan" printer) - I really like the name "Concorde" though the printer is short and fat rather than long and thin like Concorde.  Somehow the name Concorde seems to give a feeling or warmth and niceness.  I like other aspects too like "high flying" and super-sonic - speed and grace.  I'm hoping I can make this printer graceful and not an untidy mess!

Wow! Yes I remember. It wasn't long before E3D stole the name for their extruder ?

Thanks, Gina 

 

[Gina]

Yes, that's right!  Hope they don't steal this one or I shall get annoyed and that is not a nice sight!!!

[Gina]

I've started a Blog for my "GinaRep Concorde" 3D Printer

[Gina]

I'm returning your thread to you Louise ?

[Dr_Ju_ju]

What was the original question ?? I've lost track....

[Atreta]

I want to share this video for everyone who has an ender 3, or wants to buy one, to check out if their printer have the same problem: 

 

Edited January 14, 2019 by Atreta

[Dr_Ju_ju]

Reduced cost copies, says it all....

The one thing I take issue with is the statement "crimp is bad", as a properly crimped connector is better than soldered (which can go 'dry' and higher resistance over time), as it will force\bond the wire(s) together producing the least resistance.

This was tested in the early to mid 60's, by the BBC Research\Design departments, when, with advent of more complex equipment using multipole connectors, a more reliable method, of secure inter-connection, was required to ensure continuity of operation.

[RolandKol]

Just a quick update on my Anycubic Mega S,

It worked out of the box.  

Set up took around 10 minutes, + bed leveling = Test Printing finished without any flaws!

Very nice, - I was excited.

I have printed around 8 things during 1 week, - total printing time around 16H 

and.....

First fail!

Nozzle stopped heating! 

It took me around 30 mins to figure out I was doing all properly and it is not the Printer Settings or Slicer parameter issues... Even tried to update Firmware, but failed... not sure why.. 

Multimeter = no circuit in the nozzle heating element...

Anycubic has provided with the spear Hot-End with 4 or 5 Nozzles in advance.

(I guess... They actually knew what is going to happen!  )

+ 30min = hot-end in,  working and printing...

A bit disappointed... Not sure how long the second Hot-End will last Thinking of contacting them in advance with this problem...

Just in case if I will need to buy a new one soon, can you please advise which one to choose? The Default one, reaches 270C.

If I will be made to, - I think of buying one which is able to reach 300-320C, but not sure if this temp will not start melting any other parts in the pinter-head.

Edited January 14, 2019 by RolandKol

[Dr_Ju_ju]

Buy an original E3D (https://e3d-online.com/), yes it will cost more, but they work & keep on working for a long time....  I've never had a cartridge failure, just failures in the wiring to them.

[Gina]

Same here.  Been using them for years plus their excellent Titan extruder after trying others including my own make.  I use a V6 hotend on my Mini printer and the E3D Volcano hot end on my Titan printer (I had the name first!!) and the new Concorde.  My Giant printer uses my own design and make of hotend.

[Stub Mandrel]

9 1/2 minutes to say cheap connectors are poor quality?

40W is way more than you need to solder those unless you have very poor technique! And agreed crimp is good.

I bet that CNC holder coast ££££, the sort of thing only used by reviewers... any 3D printer with a bit of nous will print their own!

I prefer the 30A power pole connectors after being recommended them on here!

 

 

Edited January 14, 2019 by Stub Mandrel

[Gina]

I agree about connectors.  Many are rated far beyond their capabilities and this is concerning me in my new printer build.  Connectors with tiny pins are rated at 3A.  Apparently plenty for a 60W 24v hotend heater drawing 2.5A but I'm not convinced!  I don't want anything not 100% reliable and I don't want anything that could get hot through carrying too much current.

[RolandKol]

This is why I still afraid to leave my 3D printer alone to print  

[Gina]

One advantage of building you own printer is that you can make sure everything is up to the job.  OTOH I know not everyone is able to build a printer.

[calli]

40 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:

9 1/2 minutes to say cheap connectors are poor quality?

40W is way more than you need to solder those unless you have very poor technique! And agreed crimp is good.

I bet that CNC holder coast ££££, the sort of thing only used by reviewers... any 3D printer with a bit of nous will print their own!

Yea, my thinking as I watched the vid.

And they are definitive NOT for crimping. So I agree with that, having them crimped calls for trouble.

The original XTs worked flawlessly (soldered with 80W iron) in my helicopters at 22V, which is at 800-1000W input above 30Amps...

Carsten

[Gina]

I have used crimped connections perfectly satisfactorily.  You do need proper crimping pliers though.  Properly done crimping is more reliable than soldering.

[Stub Mandrel]

36 minutes ago, calli said:

And they are definitive NOT for crimping. So I agree with that, having them crimped calls for trouble.

I think the point I and a few others are making is that crimping is better than soldering - but you obviously need crimpable connectors!

[JamesF]

Quite.  I believe (though I am not certain, not having a copy of the regs handy to check)  that in the UK crimping is now the preferred means of connecting cables in domestic wiring where the joins will not be accessible (when they're in a ceiling void, for instance).

James