Atreta

Are you using the 64 bit version of autostakkert? If not, give it a try http://www.astrokraai.nl/software/latest.php

Double clicking right between the "action" and "primary shortcut" titles expands those columns to show the full text. I also tried to edit the shortcuts here but it won't allow alt, shift and other keys,. Edit: i changed the alternate keys to 1,2 and 3 and tested with the telescope simulator and it worked fine, the slew and sync buttons worked, but the cancel slewing did not.. I'll place a screenshot to show it.

Thanks for confirming it, James. I thought i was doing something wrong.

That's normal, try aligning the rgb sliders to about the beginning of the curve and hit apply just to check how it is. You'll have to edit with some image processing software like photoshop or gimp to reveal all the data in it. This site gives a tutorial on how to do it: http://www.astronomyphotos.com/PhotoshopTechniques1.htm Could you also upload the stack?

Mine didn't work when the update failed, it was taking a long time for the controller to boot and eventually give an error. I had to connect it to an old computer with a serial port and the update finished and the controller got working again.

Thank you, Steve. Gonna have a look at it.

Hi all, Rain season here so no astrophotography and I'm bored. Recently i got a 3d printer and i went to http://astrojargon.net/MaskGenerator.aspx to try to have one custom printed for my 130pds. I entered all the values, 650mm focal length, 130mm clear aperture( i have yet to buy a caliper, maybe a digital one), saved and imported to tinkercad, but when it opens there the size is much larger than what i entered. Has anyone managed to print one from that site and could point me the right way? I also have a students license of fusion 360 if it's any better to edit with it. Thanks

Just a guess, but what was the sensor temperature when you took those pictures? In your picture looks like the noise i get when my sensor is hot, like over 40c., then it gets less noisy when the temperature drops. I saw that you live in serbia, so i don't think it was as hot as here in Brazil. Edit: i also dither after every frame.

I don't know that software but you could try to install it in windows 10 and if it doesn't work you can try to choose windows xp under the compatibility mode option. Edit: if it still doesn't work, you could also try to install xp in a virtual machine using vmware or another vm software of your choice.

Another thing to check is if you are using 2x or 3x drizzle methods, it takes a lot more of memory and a lot longer too to finish.

Glad to help

Go under options/ raw fits settings and check if create super pixel is checked by any chance. If it is try choosing bilinear interpolation, i think that's the default one.

I think you can do it with the eq6 and the 200mm lens. I have an heq5 and 135mm lens and could do a 10 minutes test without guiding. I have a 75-300 that could be tested to give you a better answer, but it's not working for ap at all to me.

Thanks, gonna try it. Also do you know a way to get the upper layer smooth (i don't know the right translation to English). The upper layer looks grainy, full of dots, on thinginverse there are some print examples that show it without that pattern. I tried to print a sonic model and the base also had that pattern. Thanks

Hey Louise, the ender 3 arrived and i did some test prints with it. The test dog came out nice. I also just did this test: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1363023 and it also did very good at it. This is a picture of the test print: It looks better "in person" than in the picture. Edit: i printed it using simplify 3d with a medium quality setting.