3D Printers

[tekkydave]

45 minutes ago, Gina said:

I have used crimped connections perfectly satisfactorily.  You do need proper crimping pliers though.  Properly done crimping is more reliable than soldering.

I seem to be collecting crimping tools. I have one for RJ11/12/45, one for 1/4" spade type, one for duponts and recently bought one for JST connectors.

[Gina]

I have several too.

[upahill]

1 hour ago, RolandKol said:

This is why I still afraid to leave my 3D printer alone to print  

I just had the connector melt / almost catch fire on the headbed for my Tevo Black Widow - even factory connectors shouldn't be trusted as being up for the job. Thing is I knew this was going to happen - its a known fault - but still annoying - pretty sure its taken the board out too when it fried.

But, this is why i NEVER leave the printers alone - ever. And why I have fire extinguishers next to them.

......

So what are everyones recommendations for cheap printer controllers? - I cant stretch to a duet, so thinking of a MKS sbase, or a ledgre (but that is closed source/not marlin)

I would like 32bit though.

 

[Stub Mandrel]

15 minutes ago, tekkydave said:

I seem to be collecting crimping tools. I have one for RJ11/12/45, one for 1/4" spade type, one for duponts and recently bought one for JST connectors.

My stepson gave me a pair with five interchangeable jaws for Christmas, each crimping several sizes. ?

[Gina]

There can be some serious currents and chance of fire in 3D printers.  For instance my Giant printer uses a 1200W bed heater (400mm x 400mm) at mains voltage - that's 5A and plenty to be a problem if not handled really well.  Many 3D printers use low voltage bed heaters at much higher currents.  The hotend heater is also capable of causing a fire.  I don't wish to frighten people from using 3D printers but IMO safety is paramount.  There are safety arrangements in the firmware of most 3D printers where the power is turned off if the heaters don't operate as expected but...

Nowadays everyone should have a working smoke detector and also CO (carbon monoxide) detector, regularly tested, to warn the occupants if anything goes wrong.  And yes, the appropriate fire extinguisher is a good idea.

Edited January 14, 2019 by Gina

[fozzybear]

1 hour ago, Gina said:

There can be some serious currents and chance of fire in 3D printers.  For instance my Giant printer uses a 1200W bed heater (400mm x 400mm) at mains voltage - that's 5A and plenty to be a problem if not handled really well.  Many 3D printers use low voltage bed heaters at much higher currents.  The hotend heater is also capable of causing a fire.  I don't wish to frighten people from using 3D printers but IMO safety is paramount.  There are safety arrangements in the firmware of most 3D printers where the power is turned off if the heaters don't operate as expected but...

Nowadays everyone should have a working smoke detector and also CO (carbon monoxide) detector, regularly tested, to warn the occupants if anything goes wrong.  And yes, the appropriate fire extinguisher is a good idea.

crikey gina a 240v 5 amp hotbet at 1200 watts  you could boil water with that never mind that could kill you...…… be careful hope you have ample protection can't quite remember what the fuse protection is now in the uk earth leakage (same stuff for your garden equipment) if it gets wet...… co2 fire extinguisher oh and a piece of wood.

[fozzybear]

over here if the electricity board do some work they have to wear a hard hat plus gloves rated to 1000v a/c and glasses

[Gina]

I am well experienced and qualified in handling mains voltage equipment as well as higher voltages and power.  I am very careful and aware of safety.  The bed heater is controlled by a Solid State Relay rated at several times the current and controlled by the printer control board (Duet WiFi).  All the PSU mains connections and the SSR are covered by protective covers and the printer normally never plugged in without these covers in place.  This doesn't mean that care isn't still need though - a screwdriver dropped onto a circuit board could easily short out a high current supply and cause a fire.  Except for specific testing or faultfinding the controller board and all other electrical connections are covered.  All wiring interconnections are insulated with heat-shrink sleeving.  Also, all metal parts are specifically earthed to the mains earth so any leakage should trip the ELB (or whatever you want to call it) and no metal parts can become live.

[Stub Mandrel]

12 minutes ago, fozzybear said:

over here if the electricity board do some work they have to wear a hard hat plus gloves rated to 1000v a/c and glasses

Does that say more about French Health and Safety Regs or the standard of the wiring?

I remember seeing (mains) Christams lights outside a Spanish Town Hall. They were string between trees and lamposts just using naked 'choc-block' connectors that were taking the full weight of the strings of bulbs!

[fozzybear]

1 minute ago, Gina said:

I am well experienced and qualified in handling mains voltage equipment as well as higher voltages and power.  I am very careful and aware of safety.  The bed heater is controlled by a Solid State Relay rated at several times the current and controlled by the printer control board (Duet WiFi).  All the PSU mains connections and the SSR are covered by protective covers and the printer normally never plugged in without these covers in place.  This doesn't mean that care isn't still need though - a screwdriver dropped onto a circuit board could easily short out a high current supply and cause a fire.  Except for specific testing or faultfinding the controller board and all other electrical connections are covered.  All wiring interconnections are insulated with heat-shrink sleeving.  Also, all metal parts are specifically earthed to the mains earth so any leakage should trip the ELB (or whatever you want to call it) and no metal parts can become live.

I have every respect to you good on you(visons of back to the future come to mind at 88mph) I think

[fozzybear]

1 minute ago, Stub Mandrel said:

Does that say more about French Health and Safety Regs or the standard of the wiring?

I remember seeing (mains) Christams lights outside a Spanish Town Hall. They were string between trees and lamposts just using naked 'choc-block' connectors that were taking the full weight of the strings of bulbs!

"health and safety", If the brits over here have twin and earth unshielded earth old lay flat white /grey sheath and have a fire the insurance company won't pay out also if you have uk sockets and no eu marking again nada.My son is a qualified electrician and plus over here that is what he got his teeth into before moving onto HVAC and robotics. As per local rules yes I see a food truck in our local village doing frites(chips) burgers and can't be bothered to uncoil the extension lead that's probably pulling a heafty load fire risk there ….. and yes on chrimbo lights and festoons choc blocks/ wago's  everyday.... you take the chance

[fozzybear]

2 hours ago, Stub Mandrel said:

My stepson gave me a pair with five interchangeable jaws for Christmas, each crimping several sizes. ?

expensive for what they are I made my son buy a set (said I had paid for enough in your life)? plus the connectors after an um and arh he caved in

[fozzybear]

22 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:

Does that say more about French Health and Safety Regs or the standard of the wiring?

I remember seeing (mains) Christams lights outside a Spanish Town Hall. They were string between trees and lamposts just using naked 'choc-block' connectors that were taking the full weight of the strings of bulbs!

some 3d printing on wheeler dealers this evening for a couple of backets for a sun roof for an old capri  cost a fortune they 3d scanned the old brackets (broken) cost I think 190 dollars ouch..... mike brewer thought it was ok as no longer manufactured....

[fozzybear]

Sorry gone a little of topic I do apologise Gina Sorry ...

[upahill]

3 minutes ago, fozzybear said:

some 3d printing on wheeler dealers this evening for a couple of backets for a sun roof for an old capri  cost a fortune they 3d scanned the old brackets (broken) cost I think 190 dollars ouch..... mike brewer thought it was ok as no longer manufactured....

Getting that sort of stuff done commercially is always going to be expensive. A maker could probably have just modeled the old brackets and printed them for pence.

3D scanning seems excessive for the job

 

[fozzybear]

1 minute ago, upahill said:

Getting that sort of stuff done commercially is always going to be expensive. A maker could probably have just modeled the old brackets and printed them for pence.

3D scanning seems excessive for the job

 

that's tv for you probably cost them nought (nothing) publicity

 

[fozzybear]

Oh and the pun (they mentioned available for further restoration people) so probably covered their costs..... that's tv for you

[fozzybear]

Duh forgot it is all the subscribers who pay for it...…………. to watch the channel

[fozzybear]

right time I got my coat .Sorry Gina  lets get back on your topic

[Gina]

It wasn't my topic but I guess I'm the noisiest owner of 3D printers on here!  ?

Edited January 14, 2019 by Gina

[RolandKol]

12 hours ago, Gina said:

I am well experienced and qualified in handling mains voltage equipment as well as higher voltages and power.  I am very careful and aware of safety.  The bed heater is controlled by a Solid State Relay rated at several times the current and controlled by the printer control board (Duet WiFi).  All the PSU mains connections and the SSR are covered by protective covers and the printer normally never plugged in without these covers in place.  This doesn't mean that care isn't still need though - a screwdriver dropped onto a circuit board could easily short out a high current supply and cause a fire.  Except for specific testing or faultfinding the controller board and all other electrical connections are covered.  All wiring interconnections are insulated with heat-shrink sleeving.  Also, all metal parts are specifically earthed to the mains earth so any leakage should trip the ELB (or whatever you want to call it) and no metal parts can become live.

Funny
I was strongly "bitten" by my Anycubic Mega yesterday evening while it was printing
Luckily it was not my 4 year old son who touched it
Will need to look into it...

[Gina]

That's bad!!

[RolandKol]

8 minutes ago, Gina said:

That's bad!!

Even worse...

I have touched it again... and

Nothing.... No sparks in the eyes... No cursing words in the head...

Not sure if I will manage to diagnose it.

[Gina]

Was it the metal frame that was live?  I would be inclined to earth it - connect a wire from the frame to mains earth.  I wouldn't be inclined to leave it printing unsupervised though.

[RolandKol]

Yep, the frame, it fact this printers body is completely metal, so any part may be aggressive...