EQ6-R owners club

[Droogie 2001]

Sorry I don’t have any details in the gearing.

Would interested to hear how you get on

[mikey2000]

Not sure how many gears there are but I think the period is 479 seconds.  Maybe drop skywatcher a line?

 

ive been using “autopec” built into eqmod.   It seems to work well.   I forgot two activate it last time out and I saw a small drop in RA RMS (eg. was about 0.6” rms over about an hour). When I reenabled the eqmod PEC, it dropped quite quickly to 0.5” rms and settled there for the next hour)

 

i think the periodic error on this mount is pretty small and smooth, so PHD2 seems to guide it out quite nicely.   I’ve not tried the PHD2 autopec RA algorithm yet.  My RMS is usually 0.7” overall but gets better when the seeing is good (like the last week or so).  I think the PEC contribution is normally smaller than the seeing error.Fwiw, I image at about 0.78”/pixel

[Cancington42]

Thanks for the info! The reason why I got pempro is because I’m noticing a particular jump that occurs at a specific time, it looks like periodic error. I was getting great guiding at rms 0.98” or so, then last week sometime I noticed this jump happening at the same frequency of time. Then I started getting an rms of 1.8”. I hadn’t needed to throw away any subs, then had to throw away three one night. Pempro seemed a bit expensive, but someone had recommended it. I havent tried eqmods autopec.. but I guess I’m stuck with pempro now, can’t typically return softwsre, so I’ll give it a go and see how it goes.

 

i checked out the manual and found that the worm gear has 180 teeth! Just in case anyone else is using pempro.

[f300v10]

On 02/04/2019 at 20:05, Cancington42 said:

I just got pempro in hopes to tack periodic error. It’s asking me for the worm period based on how many teeth there are on the gear. Does anyone happen to know this value?

 

thanks

Not sure if you still need this answer, but I believe the EQ6-R worm has 180 teeth.  That value comes from the below page in the EQMOD docs.  From what I can tell the EQ6-R and the AZ/EQ-6 GT share the same drive components.

http://eq-mod.sourceforge.net/prerequisites.html

[Michel Audette]

Hi!

 

I just got mine from a EQ35 and Wow..... what a difference.  I actually thought at first that the mount wasn't working, but looking closely that mount was moving but with NO noise.  Really wierd.  None-the-less I cant talk enough about tracking, so good and next to no backlash.

One thing I must say is that the first one I had to return it and get it replaced. the DEC was very grinding and moving in the same direction all the time.  But, also... the previous one had NO usb port on the faceplate and the Handset was also different with only an RG45 as a serial port.

But, the second unit is MUCH better and works perfectly.

One thing, the USB port on the faceplate only works with EQ.  The only port that will work with Safari pro is the one under the handset.  Not a big deal, except for some cable management but strange.

Michel

[piata]

Hey 

I saw a question here in the topic, i had the same question. But i saw no answer.

 

To align polaris, my reticle seems to be upside down (counterweight is up when the 0 in the reticle is up too). is that normal? 

to align polaris do I have to put the zero all the way up or Do i leave it down and place polaris on the opposite side ? 

thank you. 

[Miguel1983]

On 13/05/2019 at 02:23, piata said:

Hey 

I saw a question here in the topic, i had the same question. But i saw no answer.

 

To align polaris, my reticle seems to be upside down (counterweight is up when the 0 in the reticle is up too). is that normal? 

to align polaris do I have to put the zero all the way up or Do i leave it down and place polaris on the opposite side ? 

thank you. 

Hi,

the 0 position of the reticle is not nicely on top in the mounts 0-position (weights down), this is because the polar scope is screwed in so its different for every mount. 

This doesn't matter, just make sure the 0 of the reticle is perfectly on top when you Polar-align.

I now have a PoleMaster, but i used to use the following method:

-Place Polaris in the cross of the reticle using both altitude and azimuth bolts

-lower the mount just a bit using only the altitude bolts so that Polaris is slightly above the circle of the reticle.

-loosen your RA clutch and turn the mount in RA so that polaris is on the 0-6 line of the reticle

-fasten your RA clutch and move Polaris to the right position using ALTAZ bolts of the mount

-Ready !

[Stub Mandrel]

If it's like the HEQ5 you can only see through the polarscope when the ALT movement is oriented one way.

It's not critical that the zero is at the top, it's only an aid to counting.  Make sure the main cross lines are horizontal and vertical and treat the reticle as if the 0 is at the top..

[OJ87]

Hi,

Two days ago I tried to image the NGC 188 . Near Polaris I tried to move the mount (which were in home position) in Dec axis, I could hear the moving sounds, but there were no move at all. RA moving were moving without any problems. Anyone had such issue? Any ideas? 

Best regards 

[Guest Vangelis]

Hi folks. Just took delivery of a new EQ6R.  My problem is how do I secure the polemaster adapter to the mount? You can't get access to the grub screws once you sit it in the mount. Yes theres the big screw knob but that just secures the actual polemaster body to the adapter.  And the grub screws to secure the camera to the other red bit are accessible as this half sits onto the adapter but what about the other bit that sits in the mount? Am I being really dumb here? 

[teoria_del_big_bang]

16 minutes ago, Vangelis said:

Hi folks. Just took delivery of a new EQ6R.  My problem is how do I secure the polemaster adapter to the mount? You can't get access to the grub screws once you sit it in the mount. Yes theres the big screw knob but that just secures the actual polemaster body to the adapter.  And the grub screws to secure the camera to the other red bit are accessible as this half sits onto the adapter but what about the other bit that sits in the mount? Am I being really dumb here? 

 

 

 

Hi,

Is it not the same as other Polemaster mounts such as the HEQ5 etc ?  For those you separate the lower adaptor ring from the camera and fix that to the mount, which means you can get to the grub screws through the opening. Then when secure refit the camera and secure with the big screw.

I do not have one of these wonderful mounts (YET) so forgive me if there is a different method for these 🙂 

Steve

Edited June 11, 2019 by teoria_del_big_bang

[Shelster1973]

In the pic above this post where you are holding the adapter in left hand, you can just see one of the grub screws your need to tighten to the mount.

Put this in the polar scope opening that is on the fron and then do up the two grub screws in there.  Once it is in, you won’t need to remove it, just the camera if you want to

[Guest Vangelis]

Hi Protostar, my eyes cant even see what type of screw thread this grub takes, its not a standard flat head micro screw driver (Ive got a set) Do you happen to know what it is ?? I must be a real thicky here. How do you do up the grun screw when it is sitting in the mount?? The hole doesnt allow you to get a screwdriver in and it will be at right angles to you??? Can you attach any pics of the procedure. I cant find anything on line as yet. Many thanks

[Shelster1973]

The heads for those are very small Allen heads. Something like 2mm or there about. You should have got an Allen key in the set. You have to use the small part and can only do small turns each time due to the restricted access. It does get tight, you just have to persevere

[Guest Vangelis]

Ah I see. Ive got an allen head set so Ill try this. PS I read about a specific orientation the usb part of the camer has to face east or west when your standing in front of your mounts polar scope Can you remember, thanks for your help buddy Ill try it in the morning.

[Shelster1973]

As you look at the mount the cable needs to be to the left

[Guest Vangelis]

Hi Protostar. Got it fixed, all sorted. BUT If your looking at the mount and the polar axis is in front of you, shouldnt the usb port be on your right as you look at it?

[hennyvenom]

1 hour ago, Vangelis said:

 

The way you have it mounted in the image is correct.

USB towards the East. 👍

Edited June 12, 2019 by hennyvenom

[Hughsie]

Thank you to everyone who has contributed here. It’s been very helpful reading your comments. With a wealth of mounts out there the EQ6-R works for me scope, use and budget wise. Now have one on order from FLO and thinking about the poor postman who has to deliver this beast!

[Hughsie]

Just given gas n air to the FedEx delivery man who has dropped off my new EQ6-R Pro. Now doing something I have never done before.... reading the manual!

[Miguel1983]

5 hours ago, Hughsie said:

Just given gas n air to the FedEx delivery man who has dropped off my new EQ6-R Pro. Now doing something I have never done before.... reading the manual!

i did too 😉

Have fun setting it up for the first time 👍

[Guest Vangelis]

Does anyone know if, other than killing the power, there is a way to stop the mount slewing incase it is about to hit a tripod leg?? Will you damage the motors if you try and stop it manually?

[Stub Mandrel]

2 hours ago, Vangelis said:

Does anyone know if, other than killing the power, there is a way to stop the mount slewing incase it is about to hit a tripod leg?? Will you damage the motors if you try and stop it manually?

Not if you have the clutch set so it will slip if you stall it. That's why they have clutches, not locks.

[Guest Vangelis]

And how do you set up the clutch to slip Stub? Just not tighten it too much. But then the scope moves?????

[Stub Mandrel]

2 hours ago, Vangelis said:

And how do you set up the clutch to slip Stub? Just not tighten it too much. But then the scope moves?????

If the scope is balanced, or nearly so, it should be easy to get it tight enough to keep it steady while still allowing you to move it by hand. It is on the HEQ5.