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discardedastro last won the day on September 15 2019

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About discardedastro

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  1. Alright, so a very limited dataset (bit of a theme of mine lately as I go hunting for new targets - I think this one's going to get some more hours) - total about 59x120s for a total of about 2 hours imaging time on my 200P/183MM-Pro/EQ6-R setup, mostly shot over warm rooves and relatively low down. Processed with PI; the usual manual processing steps I do (cal, cosmetic fix, subframe selection, alignment, stacking, crop, DBE, linear fitting, channel combination), but I used R/B/L as a superluminance given the small dataset (green was unfortunately badly focused so ignored it). DBE'd a se
  2. Well, did a manual calibration bang on the equator/meridian intersection and got similar wonkiness alerts. But only the second time. Backlash as measured by the guiding assistant appears fine (450ms correction pulse). So thinking some mechanical still. I'm not sure what a wobbly OAG/guide camera might look like but that's one possibility (though the revised ZWO one is pretty solid, with grub screws cinched down) and beyond that it's got to be something more fundamental. Maybe this is the year I get the courage to do a rebuild and replace bearings etc. It has sat out in wet and unpleasant
  3. My optical train goes: Baader Clicklock 2" focuser, Paracorr, T2 adapter, ZWO tilt adapter, ZWO OAG, ZWO Mini EFW, straight onto the camera - flange distance is different on the 183MM. I can't remember the spacers/threads off the top of my head but I do have a shim or two on the back of the EFW. Going Paracorr to M48 rather than to T2 would likely help on vignetting, no doubt there - more relevant for the 071MC which has a slightly bigger sensor than the 183MM. The OAG could also go further away from the sensor's light path, which is another consideration to avoid vignetting. I do wa
  4. Hm, I'll try manually calibrating. I'm running with the Ekos/KStars scheduler most nights, and for some reason this seems to recalibrate before each imaging sequence (even with "Auto restore calibration" checked in PHD2) - which naturally means I'm not usually calibrating near the equator.
  5. OK, question for the mechanical wizards... I've been getting (for a few weeks now, but given sky availability, maybe longer) some odd calibration results and associated warnings in PHD2 about orthogonality of axes. Some calibration results (all from one night) are shown below: These are obviously not "quite" at a right angle to each other. Guiding appears to be working okay though in some cases room for improvement. My question is - is this likely to be mechanical (or should I be looking at e.g. my OAG?) and if so where should I start for diagnostics? I did go throug
  6. There's been occasional bugs with KStar's meridian flip stuff getting stuck in the wrong state. Is this with indi_eqmod? I'd recommend grabbing whatever logs you have (and if you can reproduce the fault, do so with debug logging enabled for the mount etc before you start and connect devices) and filing a bug with the KStars team at https://invent.kde.org/education/kstars/-/issues Shouldn't really matter what side the saddle bolts sit on, though bolts on the left are I believe "correct".
  7. Pretty much all astro software is hard to use - it's just degrees of difficulty! If you're just looking to start using as a basic "visual" setup I'd start with something Windows based like SharpCap and EQMod. They're very simple, will let you leverage experience with Windows drivers etc to get you going while you understand the mount/telescope/camera side of things, so are a good entry point (and low cost!). Active USB cables to feed a hub might be OK but I'd want to use a powered hub and run mains/12V out to the hub to avoid it trying to bus power stuff off a long extension lead (which w
  8. Given this is for solar, I would really recommend that you don't take chances and instead stick to the well-known brands like Baader. The price difference really isn't that significant and it's your ability to see you're safeguarding. From a quick check they're almost the same price as the Baader stuff from FLO.
  9. Welcome! Straight in at the deep end, it looks like! I won't comment on telescope/camera selection - there are others who can cover that much better than I. Piggybacking is fine but does usually put you into quite an expensive category of mount - think Mesu, CEM120, Losmandy, 10micron etc, £3-4k and up - if your scopes have "reasonable" aperture. Consider if you'll be doing both year-round or sticking to planetary/lunar in brighter months or not, e.g. swapping scopes every 6 months rather than piggybacking. I'd strongly recommend getting some of the software and e.g. motor focus, gui
  10. It does help, but I've since aded a tilt adjuster to the train. Haven't adjusted tilt with it yet, but at some point I'll get around to it! I'll also add here - in case it's handy - that TeleVue helpfully confirmed on Twitter that with the T2 adapter fitted, there is exactly 55mm from the top surface of the T2 adapter to the focal plane.
  11. I've been doing RDC protected 4-gang onto a 12V PSU (a Nevada linear one) for years without issue, so that works. With a reasonably large box the PSU can sit in the box - just think cooling, esp with the linear PSUs. However, with a good battery, you can indeed just plug that in - and a USB hub looking for 12V will also be fine off a 13.8V battery input, "12V" in consumer gear almost universally means 12-ish-or-what-a-12V-battery-spits-out-V. I use a silicone cable from Lynx Astro to go to a cigarette lighter socket on the PSU or an adaptor to a battery via crocodile clips.
  12. High efficiency just means not-terribly-lossy - it has no real bearing on this (other than being another part that's losing you efficiency and liable to fail). Boost-buck converters don't really fix undervolt issues; I've got some scope graphs somewhere, but broadly speaking these sorts of converters tend to completely blackout when they get overloaded or the input voltage drops too low, and you end up with short transients down to <2-3V or "choppy" power. The right way to avoid undervoltage issues is a suitably dimensioned battery or power supply. The overall price will be the sa
  13. Single supply is fine. I will say those boxes branded "NVVV" are trying to rip off MeanWell (branded MW in a quite stylised fashion on their units), who are a well-regarded manufacturer of SMPS. I'd stick to the real ones, e.g. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/embedded-switch-mode-power-supplies-smps/7059857/ - a little more dear, but you don't want a dodgy PSU blowing up all your kit when it decides to short the incoming AC across the DC outputs... Any of those encapsulated/skeleton PSUs will indeed need boxing up, but that's very doable - just consider heat dissipation (you may want to th
  14. Pretty sure the obstruction will be larger - the oversized secondary to avoid vignetting was a definite feature of the DS models. Back focus on the 200PDS at least is plentiful but with a decent extension tube (the Tele Vue ones are great, but others are available - just do upgrade from the Sky-Watcher one!) that's no issue really, and if you swap the focuser for something a bit nicer or put e.g. Baader Clicklock on the focuser that takes up a good amount of backfocus anyway, and you'll probably want a coma corrector eventually which will take up a bit more...
  15. Right - but binning 3x3 the same images and creating copies then stacking doesn't actually put the different offset pixel data into each of those created subframes, right? ImageJ plugin would be good to see if for no other reason than reference, certainly. There is definitely scope for reuse if I ever decide to swap the 200P setup for something a bit more considered - it's a good camera, just needs to be paired with something a bit better suited to it and an 80mm frac would certainly fit the bill. That's a lovely shot.
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