Worst Astro Image Ever? - SOLVED!

[Stub Mandrel]

OK, this is only four subs and the processing is to exaggerate the faults but even so...

The only thing I did differently with this compared to images of the flaming star and california nebulas was to rotate the camera 90 degrees.

I am sure no lights were impinging on the scope.

All I can think is I may have had the camera in live view mode.

Could this be extreme amp glow (bear in mind it was probably cooled to about -15 to -20C)?

It looks like overspill from bright stars where there are none.

[Scooot]

I like it, looks like an interesting piece of art, it’s unique.  

[Stub Mandrel]

The annoying thing is the horsehead stands out really well on the RAWs :-(

[Star101]

Looks like you got a snow drift approaching from the left!!

 

[richyrich_one]

When was this taken? Pretty severe moon last night...and not too far from the horsehead.

[Stub Mandrel]

Around midnight 29/30 November. I noticed a flare on the first test image. I use a long, flocked dewshield even though its a newt, so I don't usually suffer from any indirect light, but I turned off all the lights that could possibly affect it. The moon was well away, about 90 degrees 'above' this image. I didn't have live view on.

These (screen grabs of the uncorrected RAW images) are all four 10-minute subs in order, so over 40 minutes, long enough that the 'beams' should have moved.

A previous set of 5-minute (unfiltered) subs on M42 and the flame/horsehead showed a much less distinct green glow evenly across the right of the image, the 'wrong side' for light pollution gradient but easily removed with gradient exterminator. These were with the camera 180 degrees to the above.

My guess is that with the extreme cooling of the sensor (say -20 below ambient) that even with the camera temperature (which is measured well away from the sensor on a canon) recording as only 2C, the rotation to put the sensor at the top or bottom creates a circulation of air in the case causing the gradient.

What I can't explain are the precise alignment of the 'beams' which seem to start from points exactly aligned with Alnitak and the other bright star. This creates a possibility that it's caused by a light leak or reflection. Could this be a cold mirror sticking only when the camera is on its side? Easily tested by removing a mirror I never use! Or could it be caused by a build up of ice somewhere - but since I upped the current in the wire around the outside of the sensor cover filter it's clear the glass isn't frosting.

Very strange - does this mean in future I can only image landscape targets?

[Scooot]

 Could it be moonlight entering via the viewfinder window?

[cjdawson]

That's not the worst image ever.

I've got one of M42, with all the things you reported, bad focus and tracking errors in both Alt and Az.   Now that makes for a freaky image.

[Stub Mandrel]

2 hours ago, Scooot said:

 Could it be moonlight entering via the viewfinder window?

No, the viewfinder is securely blanked off with duck tape on the eyecup.

[Ben the Ignorant]

It's not your fault, Stub, a giant gray flying saucer invaded your pic, can't you see its rim and its hat?

[tomato]

Hey, the Horsehead is clearly identifiable in the image, it therefore passes the fundamental first test of any astro image in my view.

[RayD]

I thought this was going to be the next SGL challenge, and one I was finally confident in submitting a competitive entry! 

[Scooot]

Well, I’m very grateful to your post. As a result of reading about possible light entering the viewfinder window I’ve discovered a cap that fits over mine on the camera strap. Its only taken me 8 or so years. ?

[Craney]

5 hours ago, Stub Mandrel said:

that the 'beams' should have moved.

" Attack ships on fire off the shoulder of Orion. I watched C-beams glitter in the dark "......... Are you a replicant ??

[alacant]

 

20 hours ago, Stub Mandrel said:

the processing is to exaggerate the faults

Faults? That's the best controlled Alnitak I've ever seen. Well done!

[bobro]

8 hours ago, Stub Mandrel said:

but since I upped the current in the wire around the outside of the sensor cover filter it's clear the glass isn't frosting.

Could the wire be glowing (a bit like a light bulb)?

[Stub Mandrel]

37 minutes ago, alacant said:

 

Faults? That's the best controlled Alnitak I've ever seen. Well done!

A 7nm Ha filter helps

[Stub Mandrel]

26 minutes ago, bobro said:

Could the wire be glowing (a bit like a light bulb)?

I'm pretty sure it isn't that hot

I'm going to start the cooling and take some 10 minute darks ... with the camera on its side with a body cap on, with and without the lights on. That should show any light leaks and may help me track the problem.

[Stub Mandrel]

Here's a go at the best bit of the four subs in Corel paintshop Pro, the noise removal is impressive:

[Filroden]

2 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:

Here's a go at the best bit of the four subs in Corel paintshop Pro, the noise removal is impressive:

Oh. That’s the image? I thought it was the noise and you were imaging aurora:)

[Filroden]

9 hours ago, Stub Mandrel said:

Or could it be caused by a build up of ice somewhere - but since I upped the current in the wire around the outside of the sensor cover filter it's clear the glass isn't frosting.

This was actually my first thought. It looks similar to condensation/ice build up and over 10 mins it could have quite an effect. But I’m surprised the gradient looks similar in 1, 3 and 4 but more extensive in 2.

[Stub Mandrel]

1 minute ago, Filroden said:

This was actually my first thought. It looks similar to condensation/ice build up and over 10 mins it could have quite an effect. But I’m surprised the gradient looks similar in 1, 3 and 4 but more extensive in 2.

Yes, I noticed that but they are definitely in order. The bright patch in th corner is missing in number 2 as well suggesting something moved or changed and changed back again.

[des anderson]

Don`t kick yourself, think of it as a learning curve. I`m sure the next image will be stunning. Des

[Stub Mandrel]

I've solved it by taking four cooled 10 minute subs.

For the first two the camera was placed on its side, and the images were ideal darks.

For the second two I pressed the 'set' button to flip the mirror and enable live view before starting the timer. Both images came out with an effectively identical blur of white 'light'.

So this must be some sort of amp glow or similar cause by using live view.

[MarsG76]

If its amp glow than it's the most severe amp glow I've ever seen... my modded 300D has amp glow that's quite obvious but this is ridiculous... 

Are you sure it's not condensation/moisture build up due to the cooling? When I added some peltier cooling to my DMK41, the whole chassis get quite wet...