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Filroden

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Filroden last won the day on January 24 2017

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About Filroden

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  1. I always keep L and RGB as separate channels until I've completed most of my linear processing (background removal, initial noise reduction, etc). I've tried to do background removal and normalisation for RGB as separate channels and as a combined channel and found it easier to do them separately though it does take longer. I found Warren's process flow in his book to be almost ideal. Some of the process steps can be done in different orders but the overall flow works well.
  2. I frequently suffer this bug. Usually during Star alignment. When I searched the PI forums there were similar reports and a suggestion it Had been fixed but I still get it. The only way I avoid it is to manually set the file type and bit depth rather than use the default auto setting.
  3. Really good tracking there with nice round stars almost throughout. I think the target might have benefitted from the longer focal length though I know it's hard to pass over a lens then performs so well!
  4. I don't know how Maxim works but have you checked your not using a setting designed for bias frames?
  5. I hadn't thought to daisy chain my guide camera through the ASI 1600. I found SGPro would sometimes freeze on image downloading on the ASI 1600 and I tracked the cause down to using the an external USB hub into which I'd plugged both cameras. Maybe the hub in the 1600 is much better and I could use that? Anyway, back to your question(s). Why not go down the OAG route? I have the ZWO OAG on my 1600 and filter wheel and it works a charm on the Esprit 80. I always have stars within the OAG field of view and PHD2 is not very fussy about focus/star shapes in the OAG so I don't fuss over getting them spot on! I thought it would be much harder to manage than it was, and using OAG removes a lot of variables.
  6. If you are guiding you shouldn't need PPEC. If the periodic error is so large that guiding does not cope with it then there are bigger issues that need resolving About the only time PPEC would be useful is trying to get longer subs on unguided mounts which suffer from a known periodic error. But why go to all that trouble when guiding is so easy and takes care of all tracking variances, not just PE?
  7. All I can add to the advice above is make sure you test whatever set up you decide to use before you go on your trip. Things that are easy to forget and not easily obtained under dark skies include: A focus mask to go over the front of the scope/lens to help you get sharp focus on stars (works really well for cameras that offer a "live" view that can be zoomed in x5) Adaptors and extenders to join camera to said scope/lens Enough removable storage for the camera so you have enough space to take lots of shorter exposures (if you go down an alt/az route) A decent finder scope if you need to align a goto mount (I found the red dot finders useless, finder scopes much easier and the "live" view through the camera the best once in the right area) Good binoculars so you can enjoy the dark skies while you image A dew shield if you're using the scope and you're going to areas where dew will be an issue Otherwise, keep us posted on the results!
  8. +1 this I don't know about Skywatcher mounts, but the Celestron mounts can polar align using any three stars. It does not need a view of Polaris. It does some wizardry and works out how other stars would move and you adjust your alt/az bolts to centre your chosen star (e.g. something close to meridian).
  9. I like the wider crop retaining the bright blue star.
  10. Don't forget to look at different rotations when you crop. Although you may lose some of the image, a rotated image (particularly a non-orthogonal rotation) can give a fresh perspective. Rotating your image clockwise about 30 degrees and cropping in about 40% makes the three (remaining) bright stars in the lower left look like they are "cradling" the galaxy and gives the image some support..
  11. What’s your focal length? And what mount will you use?
  12. The rear clearance looks worse than an SCT with image train for the evo mount. I think pushing the newt too far forward could cause issues in the wind.
  13. That’s a lovely pair (galaxies / scopes / cameras ... take your pick).
  14. My 1600 runs quite hot. Would that impact the brackets? They could raise camera temperature, or deform?
  15. So the best way to reduce noise is...drum roll...more data. You only have 29 minutes of data using relatively short subs where read noise will have a greater impact. Although the nebula is bright and you have a lot of aperture, you will always have noise, even using the best stacking algorithms etc. Some post-processing noise reduction (using masks to apply the effects more strongly in the weaker signal areas) will help but the reduction is likely to be as noticeable as the noise.
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