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Filroden

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Filroden last won the day on January 24 2017

Filroden had the most liked content!

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About Filroden

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    Sub Dwarf

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    East Cleveland
  1. Filroden

    A bit of a broken Heart (IC1805)

    Thanks Richard. It's always nice to bag a first image in the season. I just wish it could happen sooner than December!
  2. First the caveats: this is a combination of a brief imaging session on Monday when I managed to capture 1hr 40mins of LRGB on the Heart Nebula combined with an older mosaic in Ha taken last year. The mosaic did not cover the same field of view so I have cropped out the areas where there was no overlap. I've also just noticed a small area in the mosaic where my stars are doubled due to a misalignment (the area just to the right of centre) within the mosaic itself. . I've tried and probably overcooked the deconvolution. Having managed to avoid most of the ringing artefacts I'd missed that I'd reduced the fainter stars to squares. PP@YP! (pixel peek at your peril) I know this needs LOTS more data and a fresh set of Ha subs that actually match but it was nice to be imaging again after what has felt like an endless summer and a very cloudy Autumn. 10x 120s of RGB 20x 120s of L ~20x 240s of H Total integration time: 3hrs Skywatcher Esprit 80mm plus ZWO1600MM-C, ZWO LRGB filters and Astrodon 3nm Ha filter. Enjoy
  3. Do you have any links that go into this in more detail? I have the 1600MM-C and I've been taking bias with 32micro-second exposures and my flats (with 30k ADU) don't exceed a second other than in narrowband. I've never noticed any exposure related issues with bias, darks, flats or lights.
  4. I'm sure you'll find everyone here willing to give advice - after all, we love buying kit, even if it's with someone else's money. However, my advice would be to email our site's sponsor, First Light Optics. They've always been very helpful and they will help you make the right choices. Be prepared to make compromises. A single scope/mount will not optimally cover both planets and other small field of view targets such as smaller galaxies and some of the wider field DSO's such as nebula or the larger galaxies. Likewise, you'll find there are compromises to make between a scope used for observing and one for taking images. One last suggestion: have you also considered binoculars? They would offer a great introduction to wider field targets - star clusters, brighter nebula - and are the most easy to set up and carry around!
  5. I was imaging last night and, as usual, I packed away the scope without removing camera/adjusting focus, so that I could take sky flats this morning. This morning, I put the scope back on the mount and, using a few sheets of paper, pointed at open sky. To reach ADU 30,000 on my ZWO1600MM-C took 0.1s for L and 0.3s for R, G and B. I noticed something strange in the lower right corner where the flat diverges from a circular pattern and there are variations in the corner. It was cold last night, and most of the gear had some condensation on it when I brought it inside. It was still frosty this morning. The image below is an integration of 25 flats for my B filter. The flats for the other filters all look similar, give or take a dust bunny. It completely over-corrects in the lower right corner so this is something affecting the flats, not the lights. Is this condensation on the camera? If so, what can I do to remove it without removing the camera from my scope so I can retake my flats?
  6. Filroden

    NGC1333

    I can almost see the stars forming! Love it.
  7. Filroden

    SGPro - image download failures

    I found similar issues with hubs and also connecting guider and main cameras through the same USB. I stopped getting SGP download hangs once I directly connected my main camera to its own UB port on the laptop and all other equipment, including guider, were linked to another port through a hub (unpowered). As you've found, the only way I could resolve the hangs before I changed the ports was to close and restart SGP and even then it might only work for a frame or two.
  8. If I remember right, everything was supplied by Ian that was needed including the bolt.
  9. Filroden

    M106 revisit

    I think it's an artefact of the camera rather than the scope. I get the same on some bright stars with my ZWO 1600.
  10. Filroden

    NGC 6823 HaSHO with rgbish stars

    That’s so nice. You’ve got it framed really well, with the eye drawn right into it. I especially like your rgbish stars.
  11. Filroden

    North American and Pelican Bicolor

    This is one of the reasons for stacking many shorter exposures with CMOS, so you can recover dynamic range beyond its native 10 or 12 bits.
  12. Filroden

    The "No EQ" DSO Challenge!

    Isn't it great seeing an immediate improvement to the image when you add more data? Just the difference of 1 extra hour can really help the image. I can only say the image quality and ease of processing get better and better with more data! And one tip (it's becoming a mantra for me): there's a lot more colour in your image than you're showing in your processing. I think you may be over exposing your stars so any colour is being washed out. To illustrate, I took you image and applied an "increase star colour" action in Photoshop and then really (over)boosted saturation to show what information is hiding. This isn't the right way to process it. Better not to lose it than to try and recover it!
  13. I don't know what to say. That's a stunning image and worthy of being published. And I cannot wrap my mind around collecting over 100 hours of data. I think that's more than my total imaging time across all objects in two years or more!
  14. Filroden

    M106 22 mins of Lum

    I agree with it but only to a point. Newer technology will (hopefully) continue to drive up QE and drive down noise, so you can reduce total integration time when comparing technologies from different generations. Are the newer CMOS sensors a new generation that have reduced the need? Probably not yet. And even if they did, there are always benefits to getting more data (though with diminishing returns). Your image does not surprise me. I think the 1600 produces an "adequate" image very quickly due to its low read noise but still needs a lot of data to make it "exceptional". I'll be really interested in seeing the effects of more data. Might be nice to stack a range of subs to see the benefits at, say 10 subs, 20, 40, 80, etc. It's also interesting to see you brightest star shows lensing effects. I have that same issue on my first gen 1600.
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