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bobro

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About bobro

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  1. Clear skies above me tonight - a chance to finally test the Canon 1000D with the red filter removed. A good change from my previous attempt at the Rosette Nebula - much fuller image. 12 lights each 8 minutes 1600ISO.
  2. Here is a link to the small mods I made to get Lin_guider to run for me. Note that I know little about Linux or the Raspberry PI, so treat the mod as a bit of a bodge. See the notes file for an explanation. Let me know how it goes. http://guidingfiles.web.fastmail.co.uk/
  3. Looks like you have similar issues to what I found. My workaround was to create a small script to initialise the GPIO pins - run before starting Lin_guider. In addition I modified the program slightly. When I get back from work later today I'll look out the changes I made and let you know adder001. I've found, once running, the program to be very reliable. You're almost there! Bob
  4. Great progress Steve obtaining a guidescope and getting Lin_guider to run. Will the Bosma TCE-200 be used as a guide cam? I don't understand your comment 'ST-4 interface is Arduino'. Is the Arduino the receiver for ST-4 signals and controls the (stepper) motors in the mount? Bob
  5. The ebay link is the correct type of relay board. I'm not sure about using a Zero - what about USB for the camera, USB for wireless dongle / ethernet port to connect to PI? Doesn't look as though Zero has enough ports on board. This page gives info on compiling Lin_guider https://hhastrophoto.wordpress.com/2015/07/23/raspberry-pi-b-for-astro-guiding/ Hope you get it going!
  6. The relay board can be bought at low cost from ebay. Just search for 'Raspberry PI relay board'. Plenty of sellers offer them. Note: a bracket is required to mount the DEC motor on the scope. If you go ahead with the project I can measure up the one I made from aluminium sheet.
  7. Glad you have found the project interesting. Info on the setup, wiring and sample images captured with the setup can be found at http://guiding.web.fastmail.co.uk/ You could start with just the RA motor control to get things going. The RA motor needs a couple of simple mods to its control board as shown. The DEC motor is disconnected from its control board as only the motor is used. The PI GPIO pins used for RA and DEC will depend on the PI version. Pin allocations are set up in a S/W config file before compiling the program. Hope this is useful. Bob
  8. Wow! Thanks for taking the time on this Nige. I can see that spending more time on processing will provide better results and Startools will be looked at over the coming days. Setting myself easier imaging challenges (less gradients) might help too! Looking forward to your next outing posted here for us to see. Bob
  9. Stacking is DSS and processing in GIMP 2.9.5. I try and eliminate a gradient by making a grey copy of the image, removing hlghlights, blurring and subtracting from the original. This can produce edge effects, but they can be reduced by making the canvas slightly larger during blurring (takes time so didn't do it for the above image). Basic setup I know and every step is part of the learning process. I used the lens last night as the wind would have disturbed the scope, but the gradient in the wide angle view was big (presumably due to the poor seeing?) - would have been much less with the scope. The lens and camera mod are new to me, and there aren't a lot of clear skies at the moment to test them out and become familiar!
  10. Thanks for the images Nige. I'm amazed that you managed to create such great end results. I captured 18 lights - 4 minutes each at 200ISO, F4, with a 135mm lens. Plus flats. Most likely it's down to my lack of processing skills, but there was a strong gradient due to the vertical orientation of the camera and trying to eliminate the gradient didn't seem to do a lot for the underlying image. Perhaps more/shorter exposures at a higher ISO would have been better? First image below is a jpeg version of a raw, 2nd my attempt at processing. Comments welcome.
  11. Impressive stuff! I tried the same evening to test out my just modified camera with a 'new' 135mm lens. As you say, the conditions were poor - but my images were worse! Could you post a jpeg unaltered version of a single Horsehead image so that I can compare? ISO and scope aperture would help too. Many thanks Bob
  12. Hi Andy, The mod is straightforward if you take care and time and are happy doing this sort of fiddly work. The instructions by Gary Honis are excellent : http://dslrmodifications.com/rebelmod450d1.html I started off following his youtube video but ended up preferring the web pages as there was more detail there. Some things I suggest if you decide to do the mod : Make sure you have good screwdrivers that fit the screw heads and also have a fat handle. A couple of the screws were really tight and couldn't be removed with a jeweller's screwdriver. Push down well on the screws to prevent the screwdriver turning and destroying the heads. Take photos of the ribbon cable connectors before disconnecting the cables. That way you will know how far the cables need to be re-inserted when you put the camera back together. A couple of the cables in my camera were a bit reluctant to be fully inserted, so required a bit of wiggling with a toothpick. Ensure there are no cables trapped underneath the circuit board when putting the camera back together as it's frustrating to have to remove the circuit board if a ribbon cable is overlooked. A dust blower is useful to help ensure there is no dust on the sensor. Cotton gloves help stop fingerprints should the front filter be accidentally touched. If you are just removing the rear filter (in front of the sensor) without replacing it with another, focus will be affected very slightly. This is unimportant for telescope use as a telescope focusser has a lot of travel but may affect infinity focus with a lens. Whether your lens will come to infinity focus will depend on the lens used and tolerances in your setup. The camera is certainly more sensitive to the red end of the spectrum with the filter removed. Images need the red reduced in processing to achieve colour balance, but the Ha emissions at the high end of the spectrum should still be more pronounced and make for improvements to emission nebulae images. That's the theory - if only the clouds and Moon would go away to allow full testing of the modified camera!! Good luck with the mod if you go ahead. Bob
  13. How about M33 as a target - big and bright. Good images - have you tried processing with flats? Would make a big difference - image below will give an idea (flattened version of your jpeg).
  14. Glad you found a solution using a Barlow. I didn't go for this as my interest is deep sky imaging and so didn't want the increased exposure time and guiding difficulties the Barlow would bring. Although I use my webcam for guiding, I did test it out by imaging the Moon using the Meade 130 - with and without a Barlow. Images below for info.
  15. Good! If you go for it, M42 should provide nice bright images to put through DSS and then process with GIMP v2.9.5.