RayD

Galvafroid is what we used to use on galv conduits and trunking where cuts and threads were made. https://www.edwardes.co.uk/en/products/norslo-gp400-galvafroid-paint-400ml-tin-zinc-rich?utm_medium=google_shopping&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=google_shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhc6AwuiV3wIV65ztCh2ZOguaEAQYASABEgLNvfD_BwE

You're spot on here actually. I run 2 x 13.8v bench power supplies, and the cable from them to my pier is 3.0mm thin wall, actually designed for nautical applications, which is rated at 20A.

I see. No for 12VDC to be considered dangerous we are talking hundreds of amps, not a few. 12V in this application is absolutely safe (for you if not your kit if it shorts).

Not sure I follow the logic of this. 230VAC can and will kill you pretty easily, 12VDC will have a hard time doing the same at the currents we are talking about. 230VAC is LV, 12VDC is ELV, with the latter being considered safe for use in Zone 1 applications (inside a shower cubicle). Kev, if this is to be a permanent installation, then it legally needs to be notified under Part P. You can do this yourself if you can demonstrate you are competent, and Building Control can check it, but I doubt that is going to be the case. I qualified under 16th edition and I would struggle to demonstrate competence as I haven't taken any 17th or 18th edition refreshers. If not, then you need a sparky to do the works, or at least test the installation and register it. If you don't intend to do this then you should have the supply on a non permanent lead connected to a plug top. Most important thing of all is that you need to consider the incoming earthing in to your house to decide which way you will need to earth the obsy. It may be ok to run a 3 core SWA, but it may also need a totally separate earth rod at the obsy. You can't take chances here as you may not trip breakers if it all goes wrong. You don't necessarily need a consumer unit, but it does make it easier if you intend to have multiple circuits. A standard shed feed just takes a 13A switch fuse from a final ring, and this is then separated out in adaptable boxes, but a 6mm (or 10mm depending on the length) SWA connected to a new 40A breaker in your indoor CU is a perfect job if easily accessible. For sockets I would never use a final ring in an outbuilding unless you absolutely need to which, unless in a machinery workshop, is highly unlikely. The UK is pretty well the only country still using final rings as most other countries have rightly decided that they are inherently higher risk than radials in the event of a ring cable disconnect fault. They were only introduced post war due to the shortage of copper but have never been withdrawn and us reverted back to radials. In my obsy I have 2 radials, one for the warm room and one for the scope room. These are 20A radials which still uses 2.5mm cable, but less of it. I would be concerned if you think you would need more than 20A in any one of them. The advantage of separate radials is a problem in one room won't take everything out (assuming you are using RCBO's). I wouldn't take a 230v supply up to the pier, but that's just my personal opinion. You are bringing an extraneous item (your steel pier) in to an area of becoming a ground potential point, which it doesn't need to be and doesn't make sense. However, there is no regulation stopping you doing it, so if this makes life easier then it is permissible. However, you will have to earth bond it. Lighting is simple enough. Again mine is separated in to 2 circuits (6A each), with white and red light for each. Inside the warm room I have a single 4-gang switch for all the lighting. I know this topic rumbles on here time and time again, and as someone who spent 5 days in hospital and still bears the burn scars from an electric shock at work, I will again advise you to speak with a sparks, or at least ask the same question on the IET forums, we're a friendly bunch, honest. I can assure you that if the guys on the IET forums started asking astronomy questions, I'd send them here.

Downside of being in Spain. Lovely and clear but not dark yet!!

Sounds like you've done the right thing uninstalling it and cancelling your PayPal payments, Ron. Something not right there.

I don't use or have ever heard of them, Ron, but the site works for me using Mac.

Ooh much nicer. Great start with the mount, Gav. Look forward to seeing many more

I love this. I have visions of an astro version of John Cleese, whacking the filter with a branch whilst abusing it

Great news, Gav, and a first light which proves the mount is working perfectly. As noted by Steve, slightly red for me too, but control of the bright stars is spot on. Very nice, I'm sure this is the start of good things to come with you in charge of this combination.

Yes, absolutely you can. However, the problem is you can't confirm whether the "fault" is due to the goods or the service. I would say contact the supplier with a clear email noting your dissatisfaction, and that the mount is not achieving the accuracy declared, which is what forms the benchmark for your contract with them, and ask for their proposals for remedying the issue to offer the level of accuracy which was agreed. You have evidence this has not been provided.

It is a tricky one as we don't know the conditions of the contract you have entered in to, assuming conditions exist, and the fact that you have a service and products. As noted, if a product is not as described or not fit for purpose, then you can ask for a refund (within 30 days). However, if a product develops a fault, then the seller has the right to repair. This one is not going to be a straight forward case as I would argue that the service supplied has improved on your original benchmark, which you have confirmed, but the degree of improvement is what you are arguing. This is not sufficient to quantify faulty goods, so a refund is unlikely. As far as the service supplied goes, you need to talk with the provider and table your dissatisfaction, and offer them the opportunity to meet the level of service they noted when you entered in to contract with them. In this instance if you have evidence that a certain benchmark would be achieved, by way of guided or unguided accuracy, then this is what you are entitled to receive. I suspect the provider will be willing to look at the mount in order to put it right. However, they may be willing to negotiate a partial refund for the service side only, as you have already declared an improvement over the original performance.

The seller of a product or a service would have the right to correct any fault which has occurred. The only exception to this would be if you have evidence that the goods are not fit for purpose, or dangerous. As the mount is inherently fit for purpose I doubt you would have any evidence to go down this route. The decision to repair or replace (or refund) lies with the seller, not the purchaser. In this instance it is a tricky one as you have received services and goods. It is not possible for you to accurately determine which of these is faulty, so you would probably need to return the mount to enable the provider to put right whichever was at fault. Unfortunately I really don't see, from a legal perspective, that you would have any other choice. In most instances nowadays we deal with reputable retailers who just offer replacements or refunds, and I think we get used to this as the norm, but they are not under any legal obligation to do this.

Artemis.

I had to adjust my AZ EQ6 when I got it back. First slew and the dec motor stalled, so I spent half an hour adjusting the mesh and finally got it spot on. I could probably spend an hour considering reasons for this happening, but the adjustment was easy enough. However, I was surprised at needing to do it. The figures there don't look that good at all assuming you are well balanced.