Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

Welcome to Stargazers Lounge

Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to contribute to this site by submitting your own content or replying to existing content. You'll be able to customise your profile, receive reputation points as a reward for submitting content, while also communicating with other members via your own private inbox, plus much more! This message will be removed once you have signed in.

  • Announcements



Advanced Members
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

785 Excellent


About RayD

  • Rank
    Sub Dwarf
  • Birthday

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Kent - Southern Spain
  1. I'm not a concrete expert but I am a Chartered Engineer, and in my experience unless you have a repair done professionally, for what I suspect would be far more costly than a steel pier, then you will struggle to do what you're proposing with the results I imagine you're expecting. Don't forget you are looking for no movement at all, under all conditions, which means some pretty substantial repair. Any resin repair is generally designed to prevent further movement or cracking, not to provide a rigid joint. It would need to be so stiff it would be brittle. Most resins are actually slightly flexible to help with the bonding process and to prevent further cracking. Don't forget this isn't repairing a crack, it's sticking together 2 sections to obtain a totally rigid structure. That's quite a chore. Unfortunately some mistakes are costly, I know this myself having broken my Mesu200 mount before I'd even used it, and then had to drive it to Lucas Mesu in Holland to get repaired. If you really can't afford a steel pier, which undoubtedly would be the best option, then take off the pier that's broken totally. Make the new post as large a diameter as you can realistically accommodate, and then drill and install with a good chemical anchor 4 x 10mm reinforcing rods in the base, which will need to stick out to just above the half way point of the new pier, but I would suggest 200mm below the pier top. They need to be set 2/3 out from the centre, and I would suggest at least 1 radial half way up, and one at the top. Scabble the base heavily to provide a good key, and then poor a strong but wet mix. My biggest recommendation by far is to vibrate the new mix to make absolutely sure it is keyed and has no air pockets, just prodding and poking with a stick is no good at all. You can get a cheap poker on eBay or Amazon for about £40. Finally leave it at least 6 weeks before you do anything with it as the wet mix will take a fair bit longer to firm up, and whilst it may look set, it will be green inside. Leave it as long as you possibly can to drill it. The above should work fine, but whatever you do, you need to accept that wherever you join concrete you will always have an inherent weak point, no matter how you do it.
  2. Personally I would take off the top section completely and bolt a steel pier to the base. It's extremely hard to "adhere" 2 concrete sections in an application where there will be changes in environment and some dynamic loads applied.
  3. That's really very good. Thanks for sharing this.
  4. Yes from Wickes. I'm not sure it's going to be subject to extremes such as rain etc. as my rain sensors will close the roof. Points noted though I'll have a look at the ones you suggest as I can do 9mm no problem, it's only so that the base of the pier is sitting on a substantially flat surface rather than the current rough cast concrete. Thanks for the advice
  5. I'm actually looking at using the Secrete deep Base which is good for 5-50mm. I'd be using 15mm so it should be good I hope.
  6. Lol I wish I had them Mike. Seriously I have tons and tons of other pictures etc. with much more detail than I thought necessary to put on this thread, so if there are any details, dimensions or questions of a "what did you do there" nature, then I will almost certainly have detailed pictures and information on it.
  7. This is my fanless PC next to my TS80. There are quite a few different ones out there to select from, but I would say don't worry too much about USB3, just make sure it has a couple, but as many USB2's as you can as you use loads of them, and it then saves using a hub. Getting one which has Vesa fixings is also handy if you are going to fix it to a pier. Other than this, i5 with 8Gb RAM and a 256Gb SSD seems to be pretty much a decent middle road which should run all your image acquisition etc. but may struggle with any processing as the graphics will be the limiting factor.
  8. I use a Mini PC (not the one you've linked) and it works excellently. It's loaded with W10 Pro and I connect to it using RDP. Never failed.
  9. That's looking great Neil
  10. Friend of mine just had this replacement lens treatment rather than laser and is really pleased.
  11. Thanks for the very kind words. I'm really enjoying it, and hopefully if anyone can just get one or 2 ideas then sharing has been worthwhile for me. It's been good getting some great tips form others also.
  12. Good idea. Actually I have some spare skirting left over from the house which is 12mm thick, so I could just fit that. Thanks Steve.
  13. There is. I looked in to this as I have them quite bad, but it is a very intrusive procedure, and only recommended in very extreme circumstances. They basically replace the "gel" inside the eyeball, which is where the floaters live, and which I suspect is nothing like as easy as it sounds.
  14. Nice job. That's the easy bit done, the clear skies are a bit harder.
  15. Thanks Steve. Thanks also for the heads up on the tiles. I'll be fitting them next week so will leave a gap. How big would you say is enough, about 3mm all round?