DIY flightcase for Celestron NexStar Evolution 9.25"

[nddeyne]

I am planning to take my NexStar Evo 9,25" telescope with me across Europe for my holiday  So I'm building a flightcase for that purpose. Of course it also will come in handy to transport my equipment to a dark place nearby, and for storing it securely when not in use.
The idea has been brewing in my mind for a while, and is based on the original packaging when it was delivered. Yesterday, I translated my ideas into SketchUp. I attached some drawings for reference.

The design drawings do not include the interior padding, as not to obscure the structural components. When finished, it will be completely lined with fabric and foam pieces to support the scope.

Note also that this will be a case for the scope with the mount attached, both fully supported. The finder scope can also stay in place, as well as my piggyback DSLR mount and red dot finder. 

The ball corners at the bottom ledge of the case (not the lid) will be substituted by 2 integrated corner wheels. These were not available in the on-line library for SketchUp, so I didn't draw them. The purpose of these wheels is of course ease of transportation, but also handy to flip the case from vertical to horizontal orientation, and easy loading in the back of my estate car (just "wheel" it in).

The "lip" at the bottom front of the case (when it is in vertical orientation), serves to receive the scope when loading it. I should be able to comfortably place it on there using the integrated handles of the mount, and then slide it into position in the case. The scope will be corrector plate down/visual back up oriented in the case. When loading, the dust cover of the OTA aperture opening needs to be be positioned slightly above the mount's azimuth knob. When fully inserted, the OTA can then be lowered onto the divider by loosening the dovetail bar lock knob, and re-tightening it when the OTA is resting on this divider (padded of course). By closing the lid, the whole unit will be locked securely into place with foam padding at strategic locations.

When finished, I will be looking into using the open spaces to store various other parts, but that's something still to be designed. Maybe I'll even add some red LED lighting to aid loading in the dark. 

Just a few minutes ago, I placed my order for the parts I will be needing for this build.  Once these have been delivered, I'll start with the assembly. I'll try to document the process as much as possible, and will be posting the pictures over here!

Please feel free to comment, but be aware that once an idea has been formed in my mind, it will be hard to get it out again :-D

Clear skies!

Nico

[Physopto]

Only point a that I can see that is in my mind not too good I'd the very awkward step in the edging. I can se why you want to do it but it will weaken the case. I would go for a standard straight edging without the step. Just use a base inset of the correct extension. The lid should then just slot over the extra extension. It will be stronger and simpler to build. The extra base will slide into the lid. If you are not sure what I mean I will do a quick sketch tomorrow for you. 

Nice project, but the bits are expensive to buy. I looked into it a while ago. Quite cheep to get a case around the correct size ready made from Thommann in Germany, then alter it.

Derek

[psamathe]

One thought about "foam".

I wanted to carry my mount (head only, iEQ45) and had a suitable crate which I wanted a foam liner to protect it.  I went to a specialist foam supplier/cutter who was very cooperative and learnt a lot about the different densities of foam (springiness vs compressibility).  And even following their recommendations I was surprised and how much the foam is compressed by the mount.

Ian

[Physopto]

I bought high density foam from Thomann, but they stopped doing it for some reason. You can get similar off the internet. It was a black reconstituted foam 1" thick easy to cut and is very easy to bond with double sided tape. ( Screwfix). Glue does not bond as well. Tried all sorts, but tape better. I used it for my NEQ6 and GM1000HPS cases. There are pics somewhere here on the forum.

Derek

 

[nddeyne]

1 hour ago, Physopto said:

Only point a that I can see that is in my mind not too good I'd the very awkward step in the edging.

A straight case with a base inset was my first iteration of this design. But this doesn't work well with the structure for supporting the divider between the mount and the OTA. This is a key component in locking the scope into place, and needs to be structurely as sound as possible with the fixed mounted uprights imho. Fixing the inset in such a way it would not tip the case when placing the scope on it was also a possible issue. Therefor I changed to the stepped design. As this case will be completely made out of 10mm laminated ply, I guess it will be strong enough this way (Thomman is mostly 7mm ply). The corners of the step will be strenghtened with additional flat corner brackets. The inside corners of the wood will not be sawn 'till the very corner edge, but instead to a drilled hole as not to create a stress line, but a rounded corner. There will not be any stress placed on the step in the lid, padding to lock the scope in the case will not be installed in that location.

I looked for ready made cases online, but they are all of the straight design and much more expensive than what I will be paying now. I guess taking the labour out of the equasion makes up for a lot. And I'm not afraid of handling a simple project like this myself ;-) 

All materials will set me back a little over 300€, and it's quality stuff (Adam Hall hardware and both sides pre-laminated 10mm birch plywood).

Thanks anyway for the feedback, seems we were thinking alike :-)

[nddeyne]

46 minutes ago, psamathe said:

One thought about "foam".

Hi Ian,

The foam I will be using will consist of 2 or 3 structural parts, depending where it is used. The yellowish parts you see in the design, are made from high density PUR, used for in-floor radiant heating. It is very resistant to compression, can be worked into shape very easily and will serve as a base for 5mm medium density black PE foam, type "Plastazote", used for padding of musical equipment cases. Where needed (OTA) an additional layer of 5mm neoprene will be added, to provide soft compactable support. Everything will be glued in place with contact cement, no way that is coming loose ever again :-D

[Physopto]

Have you thought about the weight?

 I agree with the strength of 10mm ply. My Thommann case for my EQ8 legs weighed in at 14 killograms without any foam. That was 40x40x 100 mm and made from 7mm ply. With the legs weighing in at 30 killograms gave a total of 46 because of the leg height adjusters as well. Very difficult to lift into a car boot without damaging the bumper. 

I would look at the weight just in case. I ended up selling the EQ8 as it was just too heavy in the end. Two boxes of 46 killograms in all.  

[nddeyne]

5 hours ago, Physopto said:

Have you thought about the weight?

Yup, I did. Will be about 50kg total, hence the wheels. Lifting the case into my car will be no problem, I did some tests with a 50kg cement bag which is much more difficult to lift (not rigid, no handles :-D)

[nddeyne]

And so it begins...

[nddeyne]

Construction has started :-)

First step: saw panels to size

[nddeyne]

Then build a wooden box. I used clear construction adhesive and brad nails for the joints.

[nddeyne]

Fitting the wheels.

[nddeyne]

Layout of the bottom/top split and the hardware. Cutting hardware holes.

[nddeyne]

Splitting the box. The gap measures 1cm to accommodate the aluminium closing profile later.

[nddeyne]

Tadaa... Hardware will be next! Stay tuned!!! :-D

[nddeyne]

Oh right... And I also ordered a few of these: USB powered red LED strips. One for this case, one for my EP/accessories case, and one to test on my tripod (under the shelf, pointing downward). These can conveniently be powered by a compact power bank, like the ones used as a phone backup battery. It's a black strip with 6 LED's, a on/off switch is incorporated and the cable itself is 51"/1300mm long.

[nddeyne]

I continued well into the night yesterday evening, and made a bit of a mess in my house (this is one of those times when the expression "being a happy single" actually has some truth in it :-D ).

But... Closing profiles have been installed! They are temporarily fixed in place with construction adhesive, awaiting installation of the closing hardware and additional reinforcing corner brackets and stuff.

And if I may say so myself: it's a perfect fit! :-)

[Physopto]

Looking good.

 

[nddeyne]

Ok, next...

Installation of remaining hardware.

 

[nddeyne]

Almost...

 

[nddeyne]

Aaaaand... Outside FINISHED!!! YAY! :-D

 

[nddeyne]

And I must have taken the correct measurements for once. My mount with the scope installed even fits!!! And the case can be closed with it inside! Who would have thought that? 

Next up: the inside, but that will be a job for next week I guess. I'm pretty pleased with the result up until now!

[saac]

Cracking design and build, the scope will be really secure in there.

Jim

[nddeyne]

Thank you Jim! I appreciate your feedback!

[Gina]

Very nicely done