Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'diy'.
-
Hi guys and girls, I would like your thoughts on my grand design for my observatory as Kevin McCloud is busy and I am looking for that little gem of advice which may help me navigate around or avoid a common or not so common problem already addressed by the informed users of SL. I have a (second) shed measuring 2.5m x 3.0m and this is to be my observatory with great views 340° of the night sky (tree hiding NNW so not an issue). I live in the country 10 miles away from the nearest town so light pollution isn't an issue although I'm not in a dark skies site I have looked at the website below and found my area is in a reasonably good area for darkness. So to not ruin the aesthetics of part of our garden I have been looking for alternatives to the rolling roof option. I have a flat roof at a slight angle to accommodate rain and have decided the best option is to cut the roof in half and open it up like a book with both halves folding on hinges to 170° being supported on chain with a rope pulls to pull them back in and dampeners to stop them slamming down. There will be a fixed pier and suitable wiring for plug sockets, red wall light and a consumer box. A desk along one wall and storage space. What are your thoughts? I will post pictures when i begin! http://www.avex-asso.org/dossiers/wordpress/?page_id=127&lang=en_GB#
- 63 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- observatory
- rolling roof
- (and 4 more)
-
Vibrations from ZWO ASI cameras effecting star shape?
Corpze posted a topic in Discussions - Cameras
Stumbeled upon a forum thread saying the some of the ZWO ASI Cameras has issues with vibrations from the fan. I don't know if i had any issues with my fan (having a ASI 2600MM) but I am to corious not to test this out. I made a video of how I (try to) analyse my vibrations with my phone as it has a accelerometer, which indicated a bit better values after the mod. You can find my video on my youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q0K_7oEQbEg&ab_channel=ExoPhotography Have you noticed anything like this? Have you made the mod? Have you changed the fan for another, better one? Regards, Daniel -
Just a few days before Christmas, today I felt it was a good day to do something about my flat images. It has always been a problem. With color cameras there is a need to have the three color channels at the same signal level as the camera sensor see it. If not it can be that one color channel oversaturate and another one get too low and get noisy. I have used a monitor where I can adjust the color and other stuff, no one was easy to use. Now I building one with a RGB LED stripe with some extra control of the colors. Interesting ? You have photos and text about my DIY here: http://www.astrofriend.eu/astronomy/tutorials/tutorial-flatcalibration/07-tutorial-flatcalibration.html This is the one that worked best yet. But I have to develope it more now when I know I can use it. The 3D-printer will come in use again. Merry Chrstmas to all of you ! /Lars
-
I bought an Opticstar 2" Manual Filter Wheel and the plan is to stick an arduino controlled stepper motor on the wheel perimeter to turn it. Magnets and hall effect switches will be used to keep track of the position and which filter is active. The mechanical design is done using the open source apps LibreCAD and FreeCAD. G-code for my CNC mill is produced using HeeksCAD and the mill itself is controlled by LinuxCNC. Electronic design is done using the awesome KiCad which recently has had a massive boost by the propeller heads at CERN. The mechanics is almost done. Still need to etch the PCB and put it together before the real fun begins writing the firmware Clear skies, K
- 23 replies
-
- 6
-
-
- filterwheel
- diy
- (and 1 more)
-
Been working on this motorised flap flat panel for quite some time already. Thought I'd finally post something about it as I just got the flap opening and closing properly for the first time. I initially designed this around the 28BYJ-48 stepper but that just turned out to be too weak. I did manage it to make it move by converting a 5V version to bipolar mode and driving it with 12V. But as soon as you removed power the gravity would take over and the flap would be a bit too flappy... Keeping the motor energised continuously would have made it too hot over time and it probably would have not lasted very long so I decided to go with a high torque servo instead. This one is using a Hiwonder LDX-227 servo. Seems plenty strong for this application. The flat panel itself is still work in progress. My original idea was to shine the light straight to the edges of the diffusing perspex but that didn't work out very well so I started experimenting with other ideas. At the moment the LED strip ring is hidden behind the diffusing perspex and reflecting off a reflector (aluminum foil on a concave surface). To the eye it looks pretty flat but if I take a photo of it and stretch the levels, you'll start to see a bit of a gradient. Whether this is a problem, I'm not sure... More about this later...
- 6 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- diy
- flat field
- (and 2 more)
-
I have stumbled upon a very interesting site, upon seeing their products I searched them on SGL, and they seems to have a good reputation, even FLO sells it! I am interested on many of there products, some will be asked in a other thread, so here are some of those questions: 1. Can I see details on the sun with this kit, if not can I see a solar eclipse safely without solar filter? (Link: https://astromedia.de/Der-Sonnen-Projektor) 2. Is this a good, useable telescope? I am going to observe widefield stuff with this! (Link: https://astromedia.de/Das-Newton-Spiegelteleskop) 3. This is a really stupid question, but can I project a bright space object (Such as star clusters) to a screen with this kit? (Link: https://astromedia.de/Das-Kleine-Galileo-Teleskop) 4. Can I create a eyepiece with these lens (specifically plossl's) Link: https://www.astromediashop.co.uk/Components.html, Look at the acrylic glass section) Other questions will be asked in a other thread, thanks for reading! Clear skies!
-
After a response from a few people, I am thinking of getting a alt-az mount w/slow-mo controls but the prices are very high, so can I make one at home? Also, the other reason is that the one I was looking at was suspicious looking like it could be displaced by a simple breeze, so can I make a slow-mo control mount or will it be an uncompleted dream? -
While I've purchased and use various commercially available dew shields I decided to try my hand at making one, mainly for saving on weight for air travel. Quite pleased with the result. Only jabbed myself with the needle a couple of times. Hope.it helps if your thinking about making one.
-
From the album: Astronomical Equipment
finished android nichrome wire heater -
From the album: Astronomical Equipment
Heating my 21mm Baader Hyperion -
corrector heater strap installed with controller
Badweather posted a gallery image in Member's Album
From the album: Astronomical Equipment
Corrector heater installed -
From the album: Astronomical Equipment
finished corrector heater -
From the album: Astronomical Equipment
finished diagonal heater -
From the album: Astronomical Equipment
star diagonal heater -
From the album: Astronomical Equipment
I finally received enough of the parts for my DIY dew control system to begin making the first one. -
From the album: Pappy Nick
It's finally been done !!!!! -
So, as the title explains I need a mount for my 70mm F/10 refractor, It has a fork mount (Alt-az) and the tripod head fell with crash to the ground. So, it wobbles a lot and it causes frustration to even point at Jupiter, I don't want to throw It away, It is a nice scope and my first scope, so I need some easy mounts to make. There are some threads (Forums) but I would like to make a custom mount!
-
Celestron Ultima 8 pre-PEC fork mount hand controller
Gregely posted a topic in Discussions - Mounts
Hi SGL I popped this topic on CN too but noone seems to know anything. I came by an old Celestron Ultima 8 pre-PEC. I really like the scope and the mount it may be that I have read too much of Uncle Rod's and other's praise that I feel this scope has some intangible personality and charm. Anyway... Circuitry in the base seems to work fine even though the batteries don't hold charge but drive the Ra axis . I have 2 replacement on its way to me. Now my issue: It didn't come with a hand controller. I know it is not needed for tracking, and I don't have a Dec motor but I find it would be useful for centering in RA and D.A.R.V. method drift alignment. I was on the verge of making a crude controller out of veroboard and 4 momentary switches that I thought to be correct from the info on various sites, but then I came across an Ultima 8 project that clearly showed the hand controller for my scope. The pic attached is the one. I am looking for help on how the dial and buttons are wired in and/or photos of the innards of the hand controller or if anyone knows what else is inside the handbox. The sources I was going on so far is a combination of the following 3 links: https://www.cloudyni...ding/?p=8015749 https://onstep.group...in/message/6300 https://github.com/garlick/ultima8/blob/master/base/README.md These of course don't include drive rate rotary switch in the middle and if I could I would really like to to restore the full ability of this mount without spending too much on electronics. Plus I don't want to spend time and effort on wiring something that doesn't work. Oh and lastly I have no background or experience in electronics just own a soldering station and a whole lot of determination. Thanks in advance Greg
-
From my other post, you all should realize 2 things about me. 1: I can't leave well-enough alone. and 2: I like to fiddle around with things. In my last thread, I got setup with my goto telescope and managed to control it remotepy with KStars or Stellarium and even got my CCD working so I can sit inside in comfort while stargazing.....ALMOST. I still have to run in and out to turn the focus knob. So.... There is a raspberry pi running the INDI server pointing the scope and managing th CCD. I have a nice little geared motor and a HAT board that I know how to connect and control with the pi to make the motor go fast or slow, or forward and backward. I can manage the machine work to create a connection to the focus mechanism for the motor. What I need to know is if there is already a DIY-ish or configurable driver for INDI. And yes, this probably is a post for INDI forum, but for some reason I can't get a login there. So, if anyone knows or has done this, thank you in advance for any information you are able to provide.
-
Baader optical wonder solution is practically Isopropyl alcohol. Instead of £12 for a 70mL of it, buy a 1000 mL of Isopropyl alcohol for £22 (before pandemic it was only £5). They have also smaller bottles which will be cheaper of course. The Baader solution and Isopropyl alcohol don’t remove the toughest of fungi on optics, only a few of the less deep set ones can be treated with them. I have used both for cleaning eyepieces and on certain stage of cleaning several 8 to 12 inch mirrors. They both worked identical. When applied through an optical cleaning fabric, they remove ( dissolve) fatty oils and fingerprints on optical surfaces. I had cleaned a 12 inch mirror once which for some unknown reason had ice cream stain on it (cleaning followed standard operation procedure for cleaning coated aluminised mirrors). -
I am excited to join this big star gazing community! I realize I am abusing of your kindness, so that you in advance for any help you can give. I have an old telescope, what appears to be a Meade ETX 90 from the early 2000s. I cleaned it pretty well after many Youtube videos and online research. I found full blown spider webs and dead spiders! I have encountered a few of issues as I'm putting it back together and I wonder if anyone might be able to help. 1. I took off the screws of the back of my OTA (I know I shouldn't have!) and now I'm not sure how to put them back on (see attachments). When I try it seems to push the primary mirror instead of fastening to anything. 2. My secondary mirror flip is broken, the plastic piece part fell off. Is it possible to fix? The mirror itself is also very dirty (see attachments) and I don't think it can be cleaned further. Any tips on how to replace it and where to buy the parts? Or is it possible to not use the 90 eye piece viewport and instead use the front one so I don't need to fix the flip or the mirror? 4. My secondary baffle is sliding off. I've read that this is a problem w/older models. I tried pushing it to the right place and it requires some force, but after 1 minute it slides back to its original place. What should I do? Does this matter? 5. The plastic attachment to hold the smaller lens (finderscope?) wobbles no matter how tightly I screw it on. I don't know if it has anything to do with the front plastic part being a little broken. Thank you for your help in advance, and I am still learning terminology so be easy on me
-
Hi Everyone, I am planning to build a Mirror-O-Matic machine, but since the designer Dennis Rech is not responding to emails anymore, I would be very grateful to anyone who could kindly share the plans of the machines you've built. Anything would be helpful. Images, plans, cur lists, advice etc.
-
Hey Everyone, I first made a 6" f/10 telescope back in 2002. It was, as everyone called it here "the minimum size you should make". So I went ahead with it. The f/10 was because some gentleman had ground the glass to f/10 and abandoned it in the local astronomy club and the president of which handed to me. After having used the scope until 2009 (I went to UK for my Masters and bought my GOTO setup at the Telescope showroom I was working. I am primarily an astrophotographer, but one can never forget ones roots can we? So, long story short, I am back to grinding a 6' f/8 this time, The FL now stands at 49" (f/8.1). I had finished fine grinding with 1000 grit SiC and moved to 1200 grit SiC but only to realize (after 30mins of grinding) that the seller had incorrectly labelled the powder as 1200 grit. I ended up with large pits all over the mirror and had to resort back to the "actual" 1000 grit SiC. This was yesterday. Now, after about 2 hours of 1000 grit, there are about a dozen pits of varying depth. I think another 30 minutes should get rid of them. I tried making a polishing tool from White Portland Cement using the mirror as the mold and aluminum foil as separator. Disaster struck as the cement ate away the foil and got stuck to the mirror in the form of a thin layer (thankfully) and I was able to remove all of it by mild scrubbing and later grinding with 1000 grit SiC. The misadventures that I deliberately get into. 😕 Hopefully I can start polishing soon. Wish me luck folks. I will post al developments here.
- 4 replies
-
- 6
-
-
- mirrormaking
- atm
- (and 2 more)
-
Hi! I really want to get into watching the night sky. After a looking at the scopes that are available in my country, I chose to buy a SW Explorer 200P (haven't yet) and build a homemade dobsonian base. I really like the aesthetics of the Orion Sky-quest dobsonian bases, so I draw a really similar design to fit the SW scope I want to buy. But while drawing it, I had tons of questions and I hope you can help me. First of all, I just could get some aproximate measures of the parts of the scope out of the internet. If any of you has one of these SW reflectors, I would really appreciate if you can take some measurements for me to make the design more precise. Specially I really need the thickness and size of the holes of the rings. About the bearing surfaces, I can't get anywhere the Teflon pads you usually use. What can I use to replace them? Also, what about the radius of the altitude bearings, Is it important? Finally, which should be the height of a dobsonian mount? I don't want to be bent over to be able to see comfortably, nor I want it to be too tall. Is it supposed to be used on a stool or something? I will really appreciate any other tip you can give me. I have never had a telescope, neither have I seen a dob mount. So I can be making a big mistake trying to convert this OTA to use with a dobsonian mount. Anyway thank you very much. Cheers from Argentina Almost forgot to add some pics of the 3D design I made!
- 13 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- skywatcher
- dobsonian
- (and 2 more)
-
Hi all, I proposed at Cloudynights a thread with some tricks to improve the accuracy of the Sky Watcher mini equatorial wedge that many of us use for their mini tracker. Here is the thread : https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/700024-skywatchers-small-equatorial-wedge-improvement-solution/ Those tricks are quite straightforward and greatly improve the wedge's behaviour. Fred
.png.79cbcfe7b9a8b54e0f56c4cc268ee33a.png)
