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Which focuser do I buy

bomberbaz

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bomberbaz

bomberbaz

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Ok having spent a few bob on some eyepieces (again  :grin: ), I feel it only makes sense to upgrade my current SW dual speed crayford to a better version that will take the weight of a powermate and hefty 2" eyepiece.

I have had a look at the Baader Steeltrack http://www.firstlightoptics.com/baader-diamond-steeltrack-focusers/baader-steeltrack-diamond-nt-for-newtonians.html also the Moonlite CR2 Dual Speed. http://www.firstlightoptics.com/moonlite-focusers/moonlite-cr-dual-rate-tri-knob-crayford-focuser-for-newtonians.html

I am leaning toward the Moonlite because it also comes with the optional baseplate http://www.firstlightoptics.com/moonlite-focusers/moonlite-installation-kit-for-newtonian-focusers.html To me this looks like it will provide a sturdier foot for the focuser to sit on as opposed the Baader.

However, not having ever used or even seen either, I thought it best to glean some experience off you kind people before I shell out the extra cash. So basically, your views.

OH, I am open to other options but not looking to spend more than £300.  :cool:

Steve

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John

John

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I'm not a focuser afficionado Steve but I've now put Moonlite's on both my refractors and my 12" dob and I'm really enjoying using them. They seem to be really well made as well - quite beautiful to look at but looking through them is better of course :smiley:

I think Moonshane/Shane uses the Baader Steeltrack though on at least one of his scopes and thinks a lot of that product :smiley:

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Moonshane

Moonshane

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I really like the Baader Steeltrack and I think the diamond is even better? That said, I think I am going to go for Moonlites on my scopes in future and as they fail I will be replacing with them. Feathertouch would be the ultimate but I cannot justify the cost. To be honest, on a dob the focuser is generally pushing up which does not seem as testing as with fracs which are pulling down. I think this makes even average focusers work well on a dob. As a result of this I'll certainly be changing my frac focusers first. When I have bought the bf10, the Lumicon filters, the additional Delos, changed my 16" to a truss system, saved for a double stack of some kind for the PST mod, made or bought a new observing chair....................

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ollypenrice

ollypenrice

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I really like the Baader Steeltrack and I think the diamond is even better? That said, I think I am going to go for Moonlites on my scopes in future and as they fail I will be replacing with them. Feathertouch would be the ultimate but I cannot justify the cost. To be honest, on a dob the focuser is generally pushing up which does not seem as testing as with fracs which are pulling down. I think this makes even average focusers work well on a dob. As a result of this I'll certainly be changing my frac focusers first. When I have bought the bf10, the Lumicon filters, the additional Delos, changed my 16" to a truss system, saved for a double stack of some kind for the PST mod, made or bought a new observing chair....................

I think any old thing will do on a Dob because it's working horizontally. :eek:  Probably get shot to bits for saying this but, by way of context, my imaging focusers are Feathertouch and Takahashi on refractors and there the game is entirely different.

I've imaged with a Steeltrack on a 14 inch at a very demanding 0.66 arcseconds per pixel and, to be honest, it worked fine. (I trust I don't need to re-iterate my inherent dislike of Crayfords?!?  :evil: So this is high praise!)

An imaging friend bought three Moonlights and wishes he hadn't.

The Diamant looks good but personally I'd go either for that or a Steeltrack if a Feathertouch is not on the cards.

Olly

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Stu

Stu

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I have a selection of FeatherTouch, Moonlite and Baader SteelTrack on my scopes.

I agree with Shane's comment about the different demands of dobs versus refractors, the downwards pull on fracs is much more challenging to overcome.

Feather touch are clearly the puck of the bunch, they are just smoother, and more solid, really lovely to use. There's not so much between the moonlites and Baaders, they have a different feel to each other but both work very well. I have SteelDrive units on my Baaders which I really like.

One thing which I don't like with the moonlites is that the bearings work directly onto the focus tube and end up marking the anodising. Eventually I think this will start to wear. The SteelTracks have.... well they have steel tracks to support the bearings so seem a little more rugged.

I reckon the new versions of the Baaders will be pretty good, and worth a punt.

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John

John

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....One thing which I don't like with the moonlites is that the bearings work directly onto the focus tube and end up marking the anodising. Eventually I think this will start to wear. The SteelTracks have.... well they have steel tracks to support the bearings so seem a little more rugged....

Thats a fair point Stu. One of my Moonlites is quite old, probaly 10 years plus. There are wear marks from the bearings on the drawtube. It still works very nicely though.

I've twice contacted Ron at Moonlite for spares and he has been very helpful indeed, just charging me the shipping costs, sending more spares than I requested and on one occasion including a hand drawn diagram to assist with fitting. And all my Moonlites were bought pre-owned. Good service I think :smiley:

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seo

seo

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I've no experience with Moonlite or Baader focusers so there I can't express any opinions. I'm also aware, from my personal experience,  and agree that different scope designs may very well affect  differently the way and accuracy with which every different focuser "presents" its job.

I've only used  Feather Touch focusers to all my scopes - Newtonians, SCT and Refractors (except the originals that every of my scopes had before I upgrade). I've used them in both visual/manual and other remote/PC-automated astronomical operations with weights varying from very light to heavy and from 30° - 87° altitude. 

So from my experience up to now, three years usage time has the oldest of them, I can say that FT focusers are something that I'd recommend strongly for a focuser upgrade either for visual or for any other astronomical remote/manual operation - if of course someone can afford the cost.    

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John

John

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Which of these focusers is collimatable I wonder ?. All perhaps ?

The Moonlites refractor ones are through 3 screws that run through their flanges and can bear against the focuser as a kid of push-pull arrangement with the bolts that fasten the focuser to the flange.

I've found that a few of the refractors I've owned needed a little focuser tilt adjustment to get it's optical axis in line with that of the objective lens.  The flaw with the Moonlite system is that you need to remove the focuser and flange to adjust the collimation. It would be nice to be able to do it with the focuser still on the scope.

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bomberbaz

bomberbaz

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Which of these focusers is collimatable I wonder ?. All perhaps ?

The Moonlites refractor ones are through 3 screws that run through their flanges and can bear against the focuser as a kid of push-pull arrangement with the bolts that fasten the focuser to the flange.

I've found that a few of the refractors I've owned needed a little focuser tilt adjustment to get it's optical axis in line with that of the objective lens.  The flaw with the Moonlite system is that you need to remove the focuser and flange to adjust the collimation. It would be nice to be able to do it with the focuser still on the scope.

Good point John, I am going to speak with FLO and discuss before I commit to anything. Thanks for the pointer.

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John

John

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Good point John, I am going to speak with FLO and discuss before I commit to anything. Thanks for the pointer.

Good idea to talk to FLO Steve.

I've just noticed that the CR2 Moonilte on my 12" dob does have external collimation grub screws to square it with the optical axis, in required. I must say that I didn't find this adjustment necessary when I fitted it though.

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darkside53

darkside53

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Hi, Just wanted to chime in regarding the moonlite focuser, I adjust all mine whilst on the scope and have not found a need to remove it. This has made collimation easy on refractors with a fixed front element. There are a set of small nylon tipped grubs in small holes on the rear/front of the focuser plate at about 120 degree spread. This facilitates a similar function to the push pull on a collimatable cell Thanks, Mark.

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bomberbaz

bomberbaz

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The thing with the Baader is it appears from pictures as though it sits on to feet rather than a plate wrapped against the tube. With the weight of a powermate and a 2" EP I am worried this may be more prone to flexing on the OTA.

That said, as I have a flex tube the top section of the OTA is around 8" top to bottom and has two supporting rims to add strength so maybe not so big a worry than if you have a one piece OTA  http://www.firstlightoptics.com/dobsonians/skywatcher-skyliner-300p-flextube-dobsonian.html  Does that make sense?

Steve

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bomberbaz

bomberbaz

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Are you using paracorr Steve?

If not, consider the SIPS from Feathertouch. It combines paracor and focuser. Awesome. 

Very nice indeed Steve but I said £300 was my budget so I left the page after seeing the price.  :grin:

I actually already have the Baader MPCC installed and the one thing I really like about it is the size, so easy to hide yet very effective. So although in a blue skies world a SIPS would be brilliant, it is maybe for another time.

Thanks all the same

Steve

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John

John

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Hi, Just wanted to chime in regarding the moonlite focuser, I adjust all mine whilst on the scope and have not found a need to remove it. This has made collimation easy on refractors with a fixed front element. There are a set of small nylon tipped grubs in small holes on the rear/front of the focuser plate at about 120 degree spread. This facilitates a similar function to the push pull on a collimatable cell Thanks, Mark.

Thats interesting Mark. My CF2 refractor Moonlites are pre-owned units so maybe the design has changed now ?

The grub screws on my units are set into the flange plate but are reached for adjustment from the rear of the flange plate - so you need to remove it and the focuser from the scope to get to them. Like this (last photo):

https://focuser.com/refractorinstall.php

Anyway, Steve is looking at a newtonian focuser so this is a little red herring for him (of my doing too :rolleyes2: ).

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