Freddie

How about contacting OVL?

Which stacking software are you using?

I much prefer CdC to stellarium. Lots of options and functions and has a more “scientific” feel to me for some reason.

Before spending your money, I would have a good read through of the numerous threads about the Ioptron EC mounts (40 and 60) on the cloudy nights forum.

The free Astro software GIMP will allow you to do what you need.

Depends on if the 30% of cloud cover gets in the way of the stars you need to see!!!😀

I think what you are describing are hot pixels on each of the colour stacks. Because there is slight drift from image to image but the hot pixels are in a fixed position on the chip you see the hot pixels show up across the combined RGB. If you look closely, I’m sure you will also see blue “dots”. What you need to do is set up to have hot pixels removed during the DSS stacking process. It has been years since I have used DSS so can’t remember where that setting is but it’s in DSS somewhere!

No, but the best thing about it is that as you capture each AVI, you can just drop them into imerge and immediately see if you have missed any areas rather than finding out during processing when it’s a bit late!!!

Imerge allows you to drop AVIs onto a canvas so you can check if you have any gaps as you complete each capture.

If you were limited by the exposure you had to set to get Saturn bright enough (which you probably were with it being low, having a Barlow and using the ADC) then changing the ROI will have no impact on your frame rate.

It will fit easily with your Nikon

You can always add a 0.5 focal reducer to the set-up. I even think FLO had one on offer a couple of days back.

As this is in the observing section, I don’t think the OP is looking for imaging solutions but a 40mm EP may just about work. A FOV calculator (like the one available on the FLO website) will show you some options.

Did you complete calibration? You don’t mention it.

Looks like we may have our first cycle 25 spot!!!

Yep, go to bed and wait for the penetration fluid to do it’s job!!

There are no adjustment screws or retaining rings etc just screws, holes in the tube for the screws to go through and threaded holes in the cell for the screws to screw into. Just mark the cell and tube so that the rotational position is set and see if you have a gap between the tip of the tube and the cell. I didn’t, the cell just pushes in until it sits on the upper rim of the tube.

The cell slides into the tube a few cm. The screws go through holes in the tube and screw into the cell so there are no nuts or whatever to worry about.

Undo the 6 around the scope tube and remove the corrector plate/cell in one piece.

Looks like it is time to take the corrector off and give it a clean. I took mine off to fit a Moonlite, it’s not particularly tricky to do.

This is AR2741 captured at about 9am on 10th May. I used my CPC925 with Baader solar film, 2x Barlow and ASI120mm which gives a FL of ~5m. It was processed from a 30sec AVI captured with FireCapture, stacked in AS!3, sharpened with Imppg with false colour added in PS.

Will do just fine. No problems there.

Apologies, as the OP is using PHD I assumed guiding references would be made to that but I do now see that you say you use SkyGuide.

I think you are a bit confused there as min move is a value of distance from the zero position of the guide star in pixels not a value of time.

The graph looks good when displayed in pixels but wouldn’t look anything like as good if displayed in arc sec which is better for comparisons.