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Buzzard75

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About Buzzard75

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    New Bern, NC
  1. Welcome, fellow Tar Heel! (I'm technically an import)
  2. Thanks! I'm not a computer science engineer so I won't pretend to understand why a USB2 device plugged into a USB3 device plugged into a USB3 port doesn't work. In my eyes the camera is handling the USB2 traffic and transferring it over USB3. Again, not a computer science engineer. I do know that is a VERY new note though. The labeling on the diagram about USB3 devices only was there, but the "Important Note" with the blue bar had to have been added within the last couple of days. I'm guessing some other people with particular cameras were having some issues that they hadn't tested for.
  3. Understand. My ASI183MM Pro is a USB3 device though. The filter wheel and focus motor are not. But I don't know that it would make a difference. Perhaps it does.
  4. TIP: Do not use the one powered USB3 slot on a Pocket Powerbox Advanced for your imaging camera if you have anything else plugged into the camera. Ask me how I know. I just received my Pegasus Astro Pocket Powerbox Advanced yesterday that I've had on order for four months now. I installed all the software as required by the instructions. Just to test it out, I pulled my scope off the shelf and plugged my ASI183MM Pro camera into the PPBA and then plugged the PPBA into my computer. I connected my computer to the PPBA and then launched APT. My camera was recognized, however, the EFW and the focus motor that are plugged into the camera were not. They didn't show up in the Devices Manager on my PC so I could not select the COM port they were on to connect to them. I disconnected them from the camera and plugged them into the PPBA. My PC then recognized them and assigned them a COM port. I plugged them back into the camera and then plugged the camera directly into my PC and it also recognized them as it usually does. Now, I only have four ports on the PPBA. If I can't use the USB ports on the camera then I would really need five on the PPBA for imaging camera, filter wheel, focus motor, guide camera and mount. I could make it work with four though, since I have a spare USB port on my mini PC, but that's not the point and not ideal. Something told me the problem was with the PPBA, but I didn't know what at the time. Fast forward to today and I decided to do a bit of troubleshooting as I had been thinking about it all day. I had originally plugged my camera into the one USB3 port on the PPBA that does not accept USB2 devices. That same port also supplies 3A power for devices like Raspberry Pi's. I switched the camera cable from that port to another one of the USB3/2 inputs and it recognized the camera, the filter wheel and the focus motor. I don't understand why it doesn't work on that one powered port, but it just doesn't. Something to keep in mind if you're a new owner of the Pocket Powerbox Advanced.
  5. My guess is that your focusing mechanism didn't get installed correctly. First indicator is that focus should be somewhere within a few degrees of the dial pointing in the upwards direction towards the vertical collimation screw. Second indication is that you don't have equal amount of rotation in the clockwise and counterclockwise direction. Mine is in storage at the moment so I can't get it out, but you can see where my focus point is in the pictures of the original post of this thread and it is a few degrees to the right of pointing up. If memory serves, my focuser rotates fairly close to 180 degrees clockwise and counterclockwise from the vertical collimation screw. It wouldn't surprise me if they have you send it back.
  6. Glad they're helping you with your issues. I've always found them to be very responsive. I was actually in the beta test group for several months before they started shipping to the rest of the Kickstarter backers. Being one of the first users, I was fortunate not to experience any serious hardware issues. I think they went over those beta units with a fine toothed comb before they sent them out. It was more of a software beta than anything it seemed. I think they addressed any hardware issues they found in the beta units. It may be that since the beta, they haven't been testing the individual units and the quality control and their assembly production facility may not be as good as it should be. If you can focus on the stars, you should be able to focus on the moon. To get an image of it you'll probably have to reduce the exposure time and the gain in the live view otherwise it will just be overexposed. You also can't use enhanced vision on the moon as it will not have a star field to stack on. If you can't even focus on the stars, then it sounds like you don't have enough movement in the focuser. My focus is somewhere in the middle of the range on the dial. If yours isn't close to that and the dial is turned all the way to the right or the left, then there is something wrong with either the focusing mechanism and mirror or possibly the sensor positioning. The mislabeling sounds like a software problem, but I don't know the details about your issue with it. I will also admit that the tracking is not perfect. It will slowly drift over time. It's definitely not as good as an astrophotography mount that costs even half as much as this telescope at retail. The tracking has certainly gotten better than the first time I used it though. I won't say they are constantly updating the software, but the updates they have made have done good things for the function of the telescope.
  7. There's a handful of us around here that have them. If you don't find the answers you're looking for or want more information, feel free to ask.
  8. I have a love-hate relationship with the moon. I fight with it when doing my astrophotography, but I see something new every time I look at it. I honestly don't know why I don't stop fighting with it and photograph it more often. Yes, it's quite colorless, but there's so much detail on the surface and it's never the same from day to day. It can be quite beautiful and awe-inspiring. It's been a long time since I've done any lunar photography, probably close to two years now. I've been seeing a lot of great close-ups and mosaics, which I can't compete with. The only telescope I have that has anywhere close to the focal length is my dob and it's packed away and I can't get to it right now. That leaves me with my short, wide-field Redcat. It's very short for something like the moon, but I'm quite happy with how this turned out. I used my mono ASI183MM Pro camera, Baader LRGB filters, PIPP, AS3!, Registax and Photoshop to create this image. I stacked the best 250 frames from each filter and combined them into a color image in Photoshop. I honestly think it's better and more detailed than the nine panel mosaic I did with my dob and DSLR a couple years ago when I was first starting out. I've done a 16x9 in case anyone should feel inclined to use it as their desktop wallpaper. Always a good test of a photo you've produced, whether or not you'd use it as your own background.
  9. I actually just watched a video on this today. I've seen a few of this gentleman's other videos as BenQ was one of my top brand choices when looking for a new monitor. He walks you through step by step how to calibrate a monitor and has other videos on laptop screens and settings you need to change before doing calibration. He uses an X-Rite i1Profiler, but other colorimeters would work the same with changes to the software interface. There are two types of calibration, hardware calibration and software calibration. If your monitor can be hardware calibrated, that is best as it doesn't depend on what source the monitor is connected to, it will always have accurate color. Software calibration creates a color profile for your source graphics card to output to a selected monitor. Obviously, hardware calibrated monitors are more expensive than non-calibrated monitors. I still have questions about what mode the monitor needs to be in when doing the calibration, as I have multiple color modes to select from depending on the type of content I'm viewing. I imagine it needs to be in some type of default or custom mode and not one of the specialized modes.
  10. I shopped for monitors for a long time and thought I had settled on an Adobe RGB monitor as well. I don't have print capability and don't plan to sell prints professionally. However, I do like to print stuff out occasionally for my own personal use and to give away. Most of the online print services I've used only use sRGB. Knowing that, I opted to get a sRGB monitor and forego Adobe RGB which saved me some money in the end. Of course that's my situation and my decision making process, yours may be different if you have professional aspirations and print capabilities.
  11. Absolutely. The background will be much smoother and the detail of the object will be increased. You can't completely eliminate the noise so there will always be some discoloration in the background, but you can increase the signal to noise ratio (SNR) and reduce the effects of the noise by increasing the amount of integration time. A single exposure with the eVscope is about four seconds. The more of those four second images you have (total integration time is indicated on the UI of the saved image), the higher your SNR will be.
  12. That's only 32 seconds of exposure time with a handful of exposures so I wouldn't judge too harshly. It gets much better after a few minutes and several exposures as would any other typical astro photo with more integration time and number of exposures.
  13. Didn't have to worry about it last night. Even though the humidity started out high, the dewpoint dropped to about 10-15C below ambient all night last night. I just had the camera screwed onto the top of a camera tripod and a mini PC in a Styrofoam cooler next to it. In the future I might invest in an allsky setup of some sort with a dome and integrated Raspberry Pi.
  14. My first timelapse with the fisheye. The shower itself was a little lackluster for me, but I couldn't expect much living in a small city. I only caught a handful and only one or two of them were bright. Think some of the brighter objects towards the end were airplanes. Thought it was really cool to see the Milky Way starting to rise towards the end. Will definitely have to do more of these in the future even when there isn't a meteor shower and hopefully under darker skies. ZWO ASI178MC 2.5mm fisheye Captured with SharpCap Pro 7x1 hour sequences of 15s exposures Gain 255 Combined and frame rate adjusted in PIPP
  15. This. I've seen a few of his videos and I don't think he fully understands what he is talking about a lot of the time. He seems to be regurgitating something he read online and paraphrasing it or making up his own explanation without fully understanding the concepts. It's a bad way to teach and demonstrate. I believe he is just starting out with astrophotography and documenting his activities. We all have to start somewhere I guess, but I certainly wouldn't be putting out videos without being somewhat of an expert in the field, which I am certainly not.
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