Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

sgl_imaging_challenge_banner_comet_46p.thumb.jpg.9baae12eeb853c863abc6d2cf3df5968.jpg

Buzzard75

Advanced Members
  • Content Count

    340
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

356 Excellent

2 Followers

About Buzzard75

  • Rank
    Star Forming

Profile Information

  • Location
    New Bern, NC
  1. I'm fairly new to CCD/CMOS imaging here so I'm probably going to show my ignorance. Just trying to understand what I'm looking at. Assuming the bottom of the first distortion pattern is parallel to the ground. You rotate the camera 90 degrees counter clock wise so now the left edge of the sensor is parallel to the ground. Hence, the distortion pattern shifts sides of the sensor. Had the distortion remained on the same edge of the sensor pattern after rotation, you could then assume your sensor was off a bit and had some induced tilt on the camera. Correct?
  2. Nice work as always! I was able to get out myself this afternoon and did a little imaging. I'm hoping there's something of interest to view tomorrow afternoon as my astronomy club is having a telescope and astrophotography workshop. It's going to be a gorgeous day and I plan to have the solar telescope setup outside.
  3. I have a pair of Steiner Predator 10x42's that I got several years ago for hunting and target shooting. Turns out they are actually fantastic for sky watching as well. You won't get much detail with such low magnification or aperture, but if they have high quality optics the views can still be pretty great.
  4. It was an absolutely gorgeous day today so I had to come back for more. The full disc image requires the use of a 0.5x reducer. I also wanted to see about getting a higher resolution image without the reducer. I had planned on creating a mosaic, but couldn't quite get it to work out. Still pleased with what I got though, especially considering there's some activity going on right now. I can tell in the full disc image I had a bit of tilt on the camera. Have to keep an eye out for that next time. Enjoy!
  5. First, I want to say thank you to @MalVeauX for his incredible images and tutorial he posted on YouTube. I had a bit of trouble with the acquisition. Thin clouds kept rolling through which then in turn made processing in PIPP a pain. Eventually it just became impossible to image and then clouded up for the rest of the day. PIPP wouldn't center the disc due to the clouds and it kept bouncing all over the place. To make it easier on myself, I focused down to a couple hundred frames that didn't have any clouds in them or were minimal at worst. Following along with MalVeaux's tutorial was easy enough, but I'm using a color cam so some of my settings in SharpCap are a little different. I'm also using the Adobe CC version of PhotoShop on a Windows PC. All in all though, I'm fairly pleased with how it turned out. I obviously have some work to do on the acquisition and processing of the data. Captured using an ASI178MC with a 0.5x Focal Reducer in a Lunt LS80THa.
  6. Some of our members use them during public events, but we request that our guests refrain. We educate our members on their safe usage, but we have no idea what the general public's level of understanding is and, as has already been stated, we can't guarantee they will be kept out of the hands of irresponsible children. We DO NOT use them for pointers/alignment devices for our telescopes. We only use them momentarily to highlight objects or constellations. Before using, be sure to consult your local, state and federal laws regarding public usage of lasers as some can be quite dangerous. I personally use a Z-bolt Emerald Galaxy laser. They make a couple different versions. They are actually on sale right now for 40% off on their website through Sunday, if you can get them in your country. Not inexpensive, but extremely well built and durable. All their green lasers are individually tested to ensure they are below 5mW, which is the legal limit in the US.
  7. That's a very open ended question and not really on topic with the original post. I'd suggest creating a new topic and providing more information about what sort of objects you'd like to see, what your experience level is, whether you plan to do any astrophotography, and what your budget is.
  8. I'm guessing you got 20x80's and not 20x8's. Those would be tiny. I think you're expecting too much from your binos. As for the church, unless you're at elevation, you can't see much beyond a few miles even on a clear day due to the curvature of the Earth. Even at a couple miles, you'll never be able to make out detail that small at that distance with something that only has 20x magnification. At 20x, you should be able to get out a bit more detail from the moon since it's so close and some of the craters are large. It's not going to look like you're floating a mile up from the surface. You need much greater magnification for that. Stars will always look like specs of light because of how distant they are. They will be brighter and you'll be able to see dimmer ones due to the aperture of the binos, but they will never seem noticably larger. As for the planets, they are so small they're still just going to be small dots. You might be able to resolve Jupiter into a disc or the oblong shape of Saturn, but that would be about it. You'll never see any surface detail. Binos are best for widefield or lunar observing, not deep sky. You can use them to locate deep sky objects, but you'll never get any detail on anything other than the largest ones.
  9. Very nice! I did a poster print (20"x30") of the main body of Orion just to see how it would turn out. My PPI was a bit too low to be blown up that large and examined close up. I think I may have to try for a mosaic like this in the future though. Good work!
  10. I haven't done any EAA yet, but I'm certainly interested in learning more and have started to aquire equipment for it. I'm not aware of what the arguments are about what is/isn't considered EAA, video astronomy, live viewing/stacking, etc. My understanding is that EAA is very broadly defined and all encompasing of all these types of observing. I had just assumed the Video Astronomy board was for anything EAA related based on the content already on the board. Not against a name change and there's certainly no reason NOT to change the name, in my opinion, just not sure it's going to have the desired effect. I seemed to have found my way here on my own just fine by looking and searching. I could be entirely wrong though. As for CN and the arguing, I'll just say I'm from the US and there's a reason I'm here and not there.
  11. There are lots of great eyepieces out there. As has already been suggested, 5mm or something very close to it would be a good place to start. I have a telescope with a focal length that's 1500mm and I typically use my 10mm for planets which would give the same magnification as a 5mm in your 750mm scope. You also want to consider field of view and eye relief when selecting an eyepiece. Plossl eyepieces tend to be very narrow and are most likely what came with the scope as they are the cheapest to manufacture. I personally find a field of view of about 68-72 to be the most comfortable and provide the best views. Wide enough to give you a good view of the sky, but not so wide that you can't take it all in. As for eye relief, the longer it is, the easier it will be to achieve a view. If it's too short, you may find you have to press in really close to the eyepiece and move your head around to locate the exit pupil. Longer eye relief is also better if you wear glasses. If I'm wearing mine instead of my contacts, I typically just remove them and focus for my uncorrected vision. I have not tried BST so I can't speak to them. I can recommend Tele Vue and Explore Scientific though, as I have a good bit of experience with those personally. I have also looked through some nice Celestron eyepieces as well.
  12. I have used FV5 and while it is good and gives you a lot of manual control, it is still somewhat limited by phone hardware. Something to keep in mind. Example, my user icon is a picture I took with my cell phone through an eyepiece. Not terrible. I know it could be better though if I could have extended the shutter for more than .6 seconds. Some phones have a built-in hardware limitation that won't let a piece of software push beyond it for whatever reason, in this case, the exposure length was limited. Granted, most cell phones aren't going to be used in this manner, but still. Don't fully understand why other than they may be afraid the sensor will get burnt out. To that, I say my phone, I should be able to destroy it if I want.
  13. I'm right handed so I aim firearms with my right eye. I've just always defaulted to my right eye when looking through a telescope too, even though my left eye actually has better vision.
  14. I did this on my lightweight camera tripod. I hung my gear bag, full of all the stuff I wasn't using, from a hook on the bottom so that it was just touching the ground. The tripod actually came with a hook just for that purpose.
  15. I wondered about either some different struts or modifying mine somehow. Wonderful video of the moon you were able to capture. I haven't been able to get the full disk because I've had to use a Barlow. Was there a specific measurement you took for the new hole or did you just move it down as far as you were comfortable?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.