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scotty38

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Everything posted by scotty38

  1. scotty38
    I have to agree. With my 294m and my previous 294mc paired with my GT981 I'm at 2.5" which, while it's not the the OP's 2.75, it's never been the cause of any of my issues.... Yes I can find sharper stars in plenty of other folks' images but if I look at mine in isolation and compared with others mine look fine to me.
  2. scotty38
    Agreed on all of that although I've not yet used that mode on my 294m but I was only suggesting it based on your desire of sampling though.
  3. scotty38
    You can use the smaller 2.3um pixels.......
  4. scotty38
    100mm wider on the 2.7m
  5. scotty38
    Might be fixed altitude with the wedge but I reckon I can see azimuth bolts....
  6. scotty38
    A meridian flip would be interesting
  7. scotty38
    Fantastic image!
  8. scotty38
    You'll need the prolific drivers for it. Some starting info on the Skywatcher site here: https://skywatcher.com/download/software/accessories/
  9. scotty38
    Yes I think we realise that and just trying to work out why the different "starting" position
  10. scotty38
    Well I just tried one of my images that I know NINA told me was 95 degrees and PI just solved to 85 degrees, give or take. Just trying to work that one out but like yours is a similar amount either side of a "valid" point, again if you see what I mean 🙂
  11. scotty38
    I don't know why or how etc but it seems to me like it's the starting point that's the difference. One starts at the East and one at the West if you see what I mean... I'd look into that and you'll probably work it out from there. I have both apps so will have a look too 🙂
  12. scotty38
    The further away from the sensor the bigger it'll need to be and Z73 flattener takes 2" filters
  13. scotty38
    I must admit to not seeing anyone, anywhere doing anything near 10 minutes let alone 20 or even 30 minutes on the 571 sensor. Those CCD length exposures seem long gone and as Elp says exposures of 5mins and less seem to be plenty long enough on the latest cmos sensors for even the faintest targets. I'd say you need to have a good look at something else in your setup to be honest.
  14. scotty38
    Do you have annotation turned on?
  15. scotty38
    You're getting focus and fov mixed up there. You can change the lens shape to change the view of the sky, it's called a zoom lens. With any particular lens operating within its parameters you can also focus along the plane of where it can "see" from near to far if that makes sense
  16. scotty38
    My Mamiya RB67 Pro SD was, you guessed it, 6x7 cm 🙂 There were quite a few variations that made use of the flexible 120 roll film format.....
  17. scotty38
    But you have no Bias..... Edit no Bias file, I mean you have Bias information in the Dark of course but my understanding is that to use Dark optimisation needs discrete Bias files and then you'd need to specify that the darks do not contain Bias information. Well that's my understanding anyway.....
  18. scotty38
    Why have you chosen to optimise the master dark?
  19. scotty38
    ok, just to summarise what's been said you need: 1. your Lights (obviously 🙂 ) 2. Master Darks to match your lights 3. Master Flats to match your lights The Master Darks "should" contain the Bias signal so you won't need any Bias frames. Do that and then post up the WBPP screen and the diagnostics output and all should be well at that point.
  20. scotty38
    If it's any use I use RA 22h 2m 11s Dec 73d 3m 1s for its coordinates
  21. scotty38
    Can you try reinstalling EQASCOM?
  22. scotty38
    But as I mentioned the spindle seems to be fastened ok as you can seen the opposite end (including the fine focus knob) spinning just fine yet the tube is not moving so it's just slipping.
  23. scotty38
    Seems to me like the EAF is connected just fine to the spindle but that the focuser itself needs adjusting. I don't know if it's a R&P or not but certainly looks like it's slipping.
  24. scotty38
    Nice!
  25. scotty38
    There are 2^n reasons but that bit aint one.....
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