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pipnina last won the day on March 26

pipnina had the most liked content!

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About pipnina

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    Sub Dwarf

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    Devon, England.
  1. pipnina

    Imaging with the 130pds

    When it comes to dew shields, what are you guys using? Off-the-shelf solutions or something more DIY?
  2. pipnina

    My Precious - M57 RGBHaOIII

    I never knew there was such a big galaxy right behind it!
  3. pipnina

    130PDS or 150PDS?

    As an owner of a 130PDS I have wondered if the extra 2cm would make much of a difference... But given as I have seen some people's photos that look about as sharp as mine with 50mm less aperture I figure there isn't much to be gained there... As far as the HEQ5 goes, I have had people tell me they can put 10" scopes on there (provided they use guiding and balance / polar align well). In the end, I think 130 or 150 will be fine. If you wanted to go planet or tiny galaxy hunting maybe a bigger scope (like 200 or 250mm) would be noticably better.
  4. I've been playing Star Wars: Knights of the Old Republic 2 (2004) recently, and noticed something rather familiar in the background of a cutscene. I quite like spotting real astronomical objects in video games. Like Mass Effect's (2007) Horsehead nebula being a location you can visit, and how Homeworld (1999) uses M51 as the galaxy image. Anyone else found real objects in any video games / movies / TV shows recently?
  5. pipnina

    Good News for Mars - I Hope!

    So long as it doesn't come unstuck and drop the filter onto any mirrors or lenses... I would be terrified of that happening since blu-tack I've used usually can't hold a poster to a wall for very long. On the original topic, I hope mars does clear up soon! My best bets for mars I think are in the next opposition (when it will be 30 degrees higher!) mostly because my southern horizon is rather tall (I live at the bottom of a hill)
  6. pipnina

    First refractor for imaging

    Your equipment should be used only as frequently as you enjoy using it Using your kit at every available opportunity, regardless of whether you are in the mood, can only lead to burnout. Desiring a portable setup capable of timelapse is absolutely understandable, and is a much better reason to go for a star adventurer than time value in my opinion.
  7. pipnina

    Imaging with the 130pds

    Finding this thread just makes me more excited for the coming darkness! I got to do a few tests with my 130-PDS (hopefully I've got the hang of it all now!) during and just before summer twilight. Not sure what I'm going to photograph first though. My camera has pitiful Ha response (One day I'll complete the build with OAG and a cooled CMOS...) and the central milky way nebulae (M8, M16 etc) are too low down for me to image (without exposing the precious to the road and pavement... and street lamp glare!) On a side note, has anyone else found the 130-PDS prone to stray light? In an image I took recently I noticed a gradient in the image that seemed too "sharp" to be vignetting or sky gradients. (The glowing pale lobe to the left hand side) Are there measures that can be taken to prevent this?
  8. pipnina

    First refractor for imaging

    A marvel of modern engineering, to be sure!
  9. pipnina

    First refractor for imaging

    And a washing line clip? You make a good point. My 130-PDS + baader coma corrector cost about the same as my Sigma macro lens, on value terms there is a clear winner here.
  10. pipnina

    First refractor for imaging

    I have seen people use small scopes on the star adventurer, though they had to balance it and polar align immaculately which would provide challenges unwelcome to a beginner. Given the budget, I think you will be better suited to combining the star adventurer with a medium focal length DSLR lens. My Sigma 105:f2.8 has done well (though it is a macro lens and does not perform as well at infinity). There will be cheaper options at higher focal lengths for an APS-C sensor however. For proper telescopic imaging, you go down a rabbit hole of expense (where the most expensive part is the mount you put it on!). A telescope might set you back but £150, but the mount you put it on is likely to cost £750 upwards! Even then you would need some form of guiding to achieve exposures longer than a minute or two. With basic camera lenses and the star adventurer however, you can get 5 minutes upwards with no guiding at 55mm, 2-3 minutes at 105 (with only basic polar alignment and no balancing). The SA is a good bit of kit, but it won't carry your telescope to great results.
  11. Not sure if SGL would be the best place to keep large video files, isn't the maximum storage limit per user 23GB? or does that change for galleries?
  12. Perfect weather for observing the central milky way nebulae last night. Or it would have been if they weren't so close to the street lamp. Got to see M8 behind some stray light reflections in the binos at least.

  13. I would imagine that, even if your dob cannot normally be used for photography (due to lack of back-focus) it will still be fine for planets (since you are almost definitely going to be using a barlow). Purely based on aperture, I would imagine a 14" to be a very capable planetary setup Assuming your pixel scale is 0.18" ppx (just under half of rayleigh criterion, which I have heard is generally a good point for planets though I haven't tested) you would have mars at a size of roughly 130x130 pixels.
  14. pipnina

    Skywatcher Decision Time...

    I might be at the point you are right now. Got my 130PDS a few months ago and learning the ropes with it. Taken this long to learn decent focusing and secondary collimation, EQ operation (re-learning, I used to own one a few years ago), synscan operation and there is yet more to learn still! Hopefully in the coming season I will be able to experiment with simple two-pane mosaics, but we'll see. So far the 130PDS has proved an excellent starting point. It's lightweight and easy to carry around, as well as being plenty sharp enough for most of the medium sized stuff out there.
  15. pipnina

    Collimation problem

    I know that adjusting the secondary will require changes to the primary. However I don't believe adjusting the primary to be correct to the secondary should set the secondary off. I don't know anything about laser collimators, but I might suggest using a more low-tech solution for the secondary (like a collimation cap) and then using the laser to collimate the primary.

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