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pipnina

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pipnina last won the day on March 26 2018

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About pipnina

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  1. Hmm. I did notice a little bit of softening at the furthest edges of my Nikon, but I presumed my coma corrector was not quite perfectly positioned. How have you gotten on with your ASI1600? I would be interested in imaging places like the flame nebula so I am very concerned by the reports of microlensing effects, have you noticed them prolifically in the images you've taken?
  2. I have been on the fence about diving into a proper astrocam for months now. I am at the limits of what is possible with my Nikon D3200. The prospect of the ASI 1600mm PRO and Atik Horizon's ability to do video and long exposure (i.e. multi-purpose planet and DSO imagers??) and their relatively good price point for the resolution and sensor size, is attractive, but I hear about micro-lensing and amp glow from these CMOS sensors, and possibly reports of unusual colour balance compared to the CCDs, and I start to wonder if I can justify spending £1500 on a camera which still has many flaws. My biggest struggle is that my telescope (130-PDS) has an image circle big enough for an APS-C sensor, even these CMOS cameras are a big shrink compared to my nikon and cameras cheaper than these seem to become nano sized! Besides making all my images much narrower it seems a waste of good light to not have either a larger sensor (£££) or to use a reducer (if available?) So between the more expensive CMOS sensors which are out of my budget, and the micro-sized sensors which are at a good price point but abysmally small in resolution and FOV, are these imperfect but flexible machines: The 1600mm and Horizon. Am I missing a product which would be more sensible here? I feel like if I buy a camera it should be a good one because they are all big money, but I also don't want to overspend since ideally I am saving money (we all know what astro gear does to savings...) Thanks for any input!
  3. My nikon isn't modded at all, and I have gotten this effect with refracting optics too. I have done some imaging with normal camera lenses in the past which showed this. I cannot however say what causes it.
  4. Hmm. I'm not sure a filter will help you since the light looks very white which would make filters useless (the whole spectrum is polluted). Because of the location of the lamp, would it be possible to connect a large sheet (like a water-proof blanket used for covering lawn furniture) to the house and fence to shade the scope?
  5. I think my flats were probably wrong somehow. I never seem to get them right but I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I don't get this pattern when I use no calibration frames.
  6. Nice report and I'm glad you got yo make use of the recent clear spell! That second photo makes me think of the year 1968 for some reason...
  7. Hello and welcome! It's best to convert finished images to jpeg or png so that it can be viewed more easily.
  8. I posted the result of my 4 hour data the other day, but as the conditions were good last night I figured returning to the same subject wouldn't hurt. Still got some issues in processing. Flats look like they're overcompensating though I kept the histogram within the recommended range and they appear to correct properly when used on a single raw image in rawtherapee. I'm pretty happy with this over all however.
  9. An excellent explanation! Kappa-sigma always gave me better results than the more plain methods in DSS, but I never knew what the settings were for. Thanks for taking the time to write that!
  10. So if I get this right, kappa=1 would throw away all but the most consistent 33% of pixel values? While kappa=3 would only throw away 0.27%? And if that's by 5 iterations, it throws away 0.27% five times? Does this mean, for purely hot pixel removal, it's best to use kappa=3 and iterations 2-5? Does low kappa severely limit benefits of stacking for "going deep" into images or preventing faint details from emerging?
  11. The good weather continues and so I recharged my camera's batteries and set sights for M81 and M82 last night. I hoped to get in the order of 6 or more hours of images from it but at some point the 130-PDS impacted the tripod leg and it lost tracking, then the camera battery ran out, so I got just over 4 hours in the end. I'm relatively happy with the result though, looks relatively clean and free of my camera's usual defects (I shifted the mount by a minute or so after 2 hours). I should probably look into investing in pixInsight to get pictures like this in a better state since I think editing is my big bottleneck right now, next to my camera being unsuitable (hence no red plumes coming from M82 ) I used Aldebaran, and Procyon to test my focus and tracking, not the greatest images but nice star fields anyway, or so I think... And of course a single 30-second exposure of M42, because it's impossible not to while it's still here! I hope you guys had similar luck last night with the sky! And perhaps better luck than I with equipment
  12. Excellent! Thanks! I don't know what happened to my manual since the kitchen redo in January moved just about everything else in the house too ha. Thanks again and hope you're all well.
  13. It's very convenient that the handset can slew to catalogued targets automatically, but for a lot of pictures I'm trying to frame two objects at once. Is it possible to dial in a specific set of RA/DEC coordinates straight into the SynScan handset so I can reach the same location repeatably? I know people do it with the computers but I can't plug mine in (no adaptor)... I can't find anything in the menus of my HEQ5-PRO to do this with... Help!
  14. Had a few technical issues with the mount but I got it to a mostly satisfactory condition after an hour or two. Unfortunately i forgot to charge my double battery holder in my nikon so it only lasted about two hours into the imaging session and I had to cut it short Hope the rest of you are getting some luck with the sky at the moment. Summer fast approaches and I for one hope to make the most of galaxy season
  15. I think I've improved it... I got the "polaris position in scope" and the other stat it gives you after setting date/time/lat/long so I put polaris on the wrong side of the polar scope... Still, I didn't think it would make that big of a difference...
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