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Clarkey

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About Clarkey

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    Nebula

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Sailing, cycling and Astrophotography
  • Location
    Penrith, Cumbria

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  1. I have an ASI 1600MM and I have the offset at 50 so that sounds about right. I am not sure specifically what the 'recommended' level is for the 533 though. To be honest as long as it not so high as to reduce the total dynamic range it is not too critical. I would suggest increasing it a little though to avoid any data loss.
  2. Thanks - I'll definitely give it a go with some noisy data and see what happens.
  3. No harm in giving it a go. I'm not sure, but it looks like it might only give an 8 bit output.
  4. I have done the binning in software for each channel as you suggest, but not using PIPP. (I have downloaded it for trying planetry imaging at some point in the future but not used it yet). If it has a 'summing' function I might try it out. Affinity uses a number of algorithms but I could not see a huge reduction in noise. Thanks.
  5. FWIW I have tried binning my ASI1600MM both in the camera and in software afterwards and I struggled to see any significant difference. Similarly using un-binned made very little difference to the image quality. Obviously, as the ZWO CMOS cameras average the 4 pixels when binning 2x2 there is no real advantage in 'speed'. It is a shame that they do not 'sum' the pixels in the camera - that would give a significant increase in data capture rate. Given the very low read noise of a CMOS sensor I have never really understood why this is not done? Perhaps someone more knowledgeable than me could ex
  6. Hello and Welcome to SGL. As masjstovel has said, there is not really a correct answer. Personally I would by the CC first and then modify the camera for two reasons. Firstly there are quite a few targets that will not need to pick up the extra Ha data and secondly, the coma will be evident in all your pictures unless very heavily cropped. You can still image DSO's without the modification, you might just need a little longer. Also, you can always add more data to your images later - you won't be able to do this if you buy the CC second as the star shapes will not match. With regards
  7. I really like it. The dust gives it a great feel.
  8. For the limited integration time that is a good result. Well done! I can't really help with the processing as I use Affinity. The only thing I would say is you can use layers to stretch the nebulosity more than the stars or use a star mask.
  9. The APT dithering can be set to adjust the mount only for widefield imaging (I just randomly moves the mount slightly). This avoids the need for a program like PHD2. From the APT manual: "APT Dithering is special feature made to provide dithering when there is no guiding because your mount is high-end (ASA, 10Micron and etc.) or when you are using short focal length lens or telescope. APT Dithering uses a mount connection to make the needed random position changes between the exposures" If you go to the APT website you can download the manual and have a look at the functionality.
  10. I think I saw some of the advice from Olly and Alicante - for some reason I thought this was for the SW Quattro. I think in a while I will be really looking at one of these when finance and financial manager (wife) approves. I quite like the idea of the Mn190 but the weight puts me off as I have to set up each night. This would be slightly easier to cart around.
  11. How do you find collimating the F4? I have an F5 newt which is relatively easy, but I am lead to believe the F4's are much more tricky to get right? Having said that, I need to collimate my 8" RC which I am dreading
  12. That is really impressive for 90 minutes of data.
  13. Just to add to my earlier comment. To manually dither you can just use the hand controller to move the image in the camera a fraction at a time every few frames. This will get rid of the walking noise. If you have dozens of frames you only need to do it every few minutes. Alternately I would suggest a laptop with some basic control software which can dither for you even without a guider. It will also help with things like focusing and framing.
  14. I'm not sure how you find Gimp, personally I did not really get on with it. I purchased Affinity Photo which I find excellent. At the moment it is 50% off at 24 pounds which is a months rental of PS. Also, the developers seem to be getting on the AP bandwagon and are starting to add useful tools. There are also some macros available from James Ritson which can help.
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