Stuart1971

Hi, With the rear filter removed, and the front one still in place, you will NOT need another UV/IR cut filter, as the one left in the camera does a very good job of this, hence why it’s left in, the rear filter also cuts some UV/IR but also much of the Ha, hence why it’s removed....so for LP the cheaper CLS is all that’s needed.....the repositioning of the sensor is to enable autofocus to still work when using a camera lens, so you can use in this manner, it’s to counteract the loss of the thin filter....HTH... 👍🏼

Yes, the original QHY5 and also an Altair GPCAM, both the cameras work in Astroberry with Ekos....downloading a copy would be a good idea I guess, as you will see the issues we are facing...

Is that the latest...?

Ok, it’s 1.8.0

The lattest RPI version.....that comes with Astroberry....

Thanks James....appreciate your time on this.. 👍🏼 I have tried my QHY5 and an Altair camera and neither of them will be recognised, yet they both work in INdI on the RPI......have yet to try my Lodestars and see if they work....

Hi, I know the Author of this software uses this forum, but could not remember who...there is an issue with the RPI version on Astroberry not working with QHY or Altair cameras, is this a known issue or a glitch ? .. 👍🏼

Yes, me too with a 50mm camera lens, over 25 seconds... 👍🏼

You will if it’s that far off, and at high F ratio... 👍🏼

Your PA can’t be too good with trailing like that at 30 seconds....it really needs to be better, before setting up guiding...👍🏼😀

Well, as I stated you need much much longer exposures to get any benefit whatsoever from that filter, also some good PA and tracking would also be needed first, but a great start all the same....👍🏼

What scope are you using, as with 30 second subs, this filter will be of very little use to you...you will need much longer to allow the narrowband light to pass through....at least 3-5 minute.... at 30 seconds, the image will just be black with nothing to show.... 👍🏼

The save issue has been resolved, but as AB does not use the latest nightly repository then we have to wait until it’s in the stable version, unless you want to build from source....👍🏼

Hi and Merry Xmas... The new solver works but there are a few teething issues, but both Astrometry and ASTAP are still there to use, I have set mine back to local Astrometry and it works as it did before, but it won’t save the setting so when I reboot it goes back to the new Stellasolver, this has been sorted now but won’t get updated in Astroberry until the next stable release of Kstars.... What issues are you having....?

Here is the OP’s image..it’s just an expired cert... no biggie.... 👍🏼

I think France has re opened borders now..or at latest in a couple of hours..... 👍🏼👍🏼

The postage is good, the adapter itself it €75 😮😮😮

Great minds....and names... 👍🏼😀

I agree that these solar cans could easily be made re useable, but as has been said by @Stu there is only a very small number of these used, compared to drink cans, which are maybe designed to keep the drink safe, but are also designed as a disposable unit, just like the solar can, so focusing on sorting that out, will have far more of an impact than making solar cans re useable...I think you need to put your energy for change elsewhere TBH.... with respect of course.... 👍🏼😀

Not sure there is anything to work on, it’s all good and working as it should.... 👍🏼😀

Here you go...

It’s working fine for me.... 👍🏼

Why can’t you use darks with a DSLR, I did all the time...the only issue is you need to take on the night of imaging after or before the lights....but it works extremely well....same sub length and will be same temp too, which is the important bit... 👍🏼😀 In fact with the canon DSLR I had it could be set to automatically take a dark of the same sub length after each light frame, this obviously doubled your imaging time if you did after every image, so I just tended to do at the end in one go...20 or so... Whereas with a dedicated Astro cam you can build a library at any time with different exposure lengths and temps...

🤯🤯🤯🤯

Five mins is fine with a KAF8300 sensor, it will work well, it does not need to be 10-20 mins as stated earlier in this thread....