Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.



  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Jonk last won the day on November 12 2014

Jonk had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1,032 Excellent


About Jonk

  • Rank
    Sub Dwarf

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Hampshire, UK
  1. Doesn't sound like I need it either.
  2. Translated: Please let me know if you break yours so I don't break mine! I admit I was a bit dubious about upgrading my FW when we went through the banding issues, but it certainly fixed that problem, so.....<shrug>!
  3. Makes a difference huh?! Also the better the insulation and cooling, the better the efficiency and therefore lower cooling limit. I found by setting the controller to -10, I got to -5 in the camera body, ccd sensor was reporting 1 I think with it on 10fps. This was indoors at a desk, with ccd starting temp at 30 after running a while, and ambient of 21 or something. I think I'm happy with that. With 60 second exposures, the temperature will drop slightly and rise on the sensor read cycle but that's to be expected. There must be a lower limit you're prepared to go? Not just diminishing returns but also ice on the inside of the camera body condensing onto the electronics when you stop cooling or the cooler is in fault?
  4. Thanks for the information in this thread, it has been very useful. I have ordered the mount, and am waiting for delivery. Exciting times!
  5. Sounds like I need to bring earplugs now I know who the neighbours will be!!
  6. Latest news, no shipping crates! The wait for a despatch date goes on... No big deal really, as I can't use it yet anyway.
  7. Can I make a serious suggestion? @michaelmorris could you organise teams based on 1 moderator as a team captain, with everyone's name pulled from a hat allocated to a moderator? This would mean a bit more interaction between everyone and not having a team of 6+ vs a team of 3 (which we had a couple of years ago!). Couples etc could still sit together on a team, just put both names on the same bit of paper. Numbers should be fairly predictable?
  8. This would likely be my reasoning too, however, I could probably afford to buy a 140 in the next year or 2 if I save hard, but anything bigger will have to wait until retirement (long way off), re-mortgage or good fortune somehow. The extra resolution isn't going to be worthwhile for imaging in our skies sadly. Some things just cannot wait.... I'm skint now though after Mr. Mesu took all my money!
  9. I would agree with this, and would be happy to contribute, but my resolution is currently 3.16"pp so probably wouldn't be able to offer much. I have suggested this (data sharing) to a friend of mine down the road and he's up for it, so we may do our own to start with. Another option would be to setup 3 categories: 3-4"pp 2-3"pp 1-2"pp The target can be mutually agreed, probably based on the time of year, i.e. if started now, choose a target that is at 30degrees once astro dark starts. Of course this will vary, but for the majority of people in the UK, it would be a good benchmark. So....who's willing to manage this?!
  10. If that works, great... how to do it? I suppose I would focus on the moon without the dome, place the dome and see the change on screen immediately, remove the dome, adjust, then replace. Repeat until happy then screw the dome down? I fitted an o ring between the lens and camera so a small adjustment wither way would not end up with a loose lens.
  11. Interesting..... are you sure that the dome's refraction cannot be corrected by changing the focus on the camera? At first guess I would imagine it won't. I would focus the camera then fit the dome. I found using the moon worked best as stars are too small!
  12. I'm curious as to why a focuser is needed? Mine doesn't appear to shift at all, between a hot sunny day and cool night it appears to be fine. Maybe smaller pixels help there?
  13. I've just been to the coaters and collected the pier Suppose I have no excuses now... hole digging is next!
  14. Only if it was outside of the housing for free air convection, otherwise you'd still need a fan to remove the heat.
  15. I did start a thread, but only got as far as camera and lens combination... You have the fan at the side of the heatsink, meaning you need plenty of ambient air coming in from the other, with none of the warm air stayin in the enclosure. My fan is underneath (think upside down PC CPU cooler) and vents straight out of the bottom of the case. I also put an aluminium shield around the heatsink, open at the air inlet pipe, to help all the air going in passing the heatsink and back out. I will update my thread as and when I'm happy with performance, but haven't documented / photographed each step.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.