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Jonk

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Jonk last won the day on November 12 2014

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About Jonk

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    Sub Dwarf

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    https://www.flickr.com/photos/64466793@N08/

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    Hampshire, UK
  1. Do you have a photo of the setup? Also, dual rig with oag? How are you managing autofocus etc?
  2. I agree, I wasn't planning on a model, just use plate solving.
  3. I don't have an EQ6, but I think they have a 9 pin D-type (serial) connection. This cable has an RJ45 connection.
  4. That's reassuring, I've heard that from the 1 other Mk2 owner I know of too. It made me jump the first time she spoke to me too! Also reassuring, looks like I have this to look forwards to too!
  5. That's right - it's always a good thing to use the same ports for USB equipment if possible, as they can become very confusing within Windows sometimes. There's a program called devicecleanup or something that can clear all the comm ports and USB device history.
  6. Surplus to requirements, a HitecAstro Prolific EQDir USB to Serial cable, which allows direct control of Sky-Watcher mounts (such as AZ EQ6) without neeeding the hand controller. Uses the prolific PL2303 chipset. Delivery included to UK mainland address. £22.00 Edit: Also on ABS
  7. I’ve tested the ftdi cable and it’s fine under windows 10
  8. Yes it's a 3d render of my planning. It really helps to get the measurements right and to visualise things. I won't rotate the OTAs so no danger of the plate being in the way of the focusers, if I do ever rotate to frame then the Star 71s have camera rotators as you probably know. I try and avoid rotating the cameras if possible. Balance is another issue to combat, I'd rather have it all laid out at stage 1 without having to add weights to balance, but I feel that's likely to be inevitable. The reason I want to go as close together as possible, is the quest to reduce any flexure at stage 1. I just don't trust the rings, there's too much movement, so I'll draw and make something solid for both OTAs to lay in. Then the guidescope and large frac can sit on top, again, as part of the same clamp system.
  9. My first thought when I checked this sub was Starlink, but having looked at it a couple of times, could it be a tumbling satellite? I guess I could work it out or maybe check back in Stellarium? Has anyone else caught Starlink in any subs? The image was taken today at 20:33 and was a 180 second sub.
  10. If you have a hot pixel in the same place on all subs in a stack, then it would probably not be removed. You must have some natural drift or other movement going on if they don’t appear in the same place on each sub. I would always dither at least a few pixels.
  11. Any progress is good progress. Glad I found this thread, as it's helped me to plan my dual rig. Here's what I have in mind... I can't get them closer in this orientation unless I remove the focus knobs I suppose, plus I still need to locate the guidescope...that's next to draw followed by whatever securing mechanism I feel is best.
  12. I have just bought an FTDI cable but not had a chance to test it yet. Tomorrow night's looking good and dare I say it, so is Saturday!
  13. Don’t worry I won’t of course! However it is so tempting!
  14. In theory, this would be the closest I could get them (not much to be gained by switching the motor to the other side on the 2nd scope) so the vertical focusers is more appealing. This depends on the camera widths, I'll look into that next.
  15. Ok, reason I mention it was because I wanted to move my 2 smaller scopes closer together than I had originally intended, but they will still be a 100mm gap between the OTA bodies unless I have the focusers vertically with respect to the base plate? Hmmm... I'll think about that.
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