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Stuart1971

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Everything posted by Stuart1971

  1. Which version of NINA are you using, and have you tried with any other software to run the camera and cool..?
  2. The next two nights look really good for me too…🤞🏻🤞🏻
  3. Well, first of all great news…👍🏻 Secondly, yes I get those spikes too every now and again, but never really taken much notice, other than thinking at the time, hmm why has it done that, and then swiftly forgotten about it… Sounds odd I know, but sometimes electrical items just like to be completely unplugged from anything and left for a few mins, I have to do this every so often with things in the house , like my Skybox, and Wi-Fi router, and it’s just to drain any static out of the electrical system which can cause errors…so why should an Astro cam be any different really….🤷🏼‍♂️ just a thought…
  4. Bern will sort you out, he is a top bloke, and very helpful…👍🏻
  5. Probably it was some time ago…Although I did have the Starlight Xpress SXVR-H18 with the 8300 chip, mono version, and nave noticed these artefacts with that one…but again it was a while ago…👍🏻
  6. Hmmm, I have had a few Atik CCD in my time and never seen that, I think @ollypenrice used to use an Atik 16200 too, just never noticed the spikes before, especially with a frac…but then maybe you re correct…👍🏻
  7. Peter…? It was Skipper Billy’s image, and he has the Tak 106 with Atik 16200 CCD camera..
  8. Yea this looks superb, much better…👏🏻👏🏻 can I ask how or why you have spikes in the stars with a tak 106… are the optics pinched slightly…? I used to have the Tak 85 and got lighthouse beam effect on bright stars which was normal for that scope, but you have full blown spikes..🤔
  9. Rather then run through twice, have you tried using the settings within BlurX, the star sharpening setting now defaults to 0.5, which I find too much, but might be better to use that rather than run through twice on a lower setting, also you should run once on correct only to sort the stars shapes out, then run through again with all settings at default after other processing such as SPPC and background removal, but before yo go non linear..
  10. 1st lANAL…?? What does this mean please… Sorry Maybe a poor choice of words from me, in my last post… If they opened it up to other cameras, they would possibly sell so many more, but on the flip side they may sell less of there own cameras, so it’s a double edged sword really, my point was I don’t think they can allow other cameras to use the ASIair because of legalities as its using the open source indi software
  11. Yes it’s much bigger, but the point of it is to replace a mini PC and something like the Pegasus UPB, so it’s competing with the likes of the Eagle units from Primaluce, which are at least twice the price of this…so taking that into account I don’t think the size is that bad at all… Also it will work with all cameras and not just the ASI eco system which is always a bonus, although ASI would love to be able to allow all cameras to work with the ASIAIR, but legally they can’t do that.
  12. If you have a look in the suggestions part of this forum I did ask for this almost 3 years ago and it’s still the latest post in there, but was shot down right away…..☹️
  13. Yes I agree, I have tried it on a single sub, as an experiment, and it’s does an OK job, but then when you run on the stack, it’s so much better…
  14. Both nice images, but the second one is deffo dimmer and less contrast…
  15. Same here, for about the last 3 years, and all lights are now LED..
  16. Yes, that’s the way I understand it works, with NINA anyway… I considered this mount myself, but then a brand new CEM70 came up for sale, still in case but 1 year old, the guy had never even turned it on, the price was too good to miss really…its been great so far…👍🏻
  17. Nice, a great mount from what I have read… I think you need dedicated software for these mounts, if memory serves, The Sky or something like that, and it has to be used to do the mount modelling…
  18. Thanks , Yes me too now, after seeing what just 45 mins gets me, I’m thinking what will 6-8 hours bring.. I am very impressed with these 3nm Optolong SHO filters too, no gradient at all to speak of, and I am in bortle 7ish zone.. Onwards and upwards…
  19. I had 45 mins at the end of my session last night, and after seeing @Richard_ Rosette above, and being very impressed, I thought I would turn the scope to the same Target, so this is 15x3 min subs, with my new 3nm Optolong SHO filters, this is just the Ha. I wasn’t expecting much for 45 mins, but was totally surprised… Esprit 100 on CEM70, QHY238m guided with Whitecat 51 with ASI178m
  20. The QHY as soon as you add the power it auto cools to zero, or there abouts..that’s normal..
  21. Oh dear, I hope it’s not a serious issue…I noticed with mine that the longer I set the time to cool, the longer it takes to actually start cooling at all….i set it on 10 mins to get to -10, and the sensor temp was 0, it took 3 mins before the cooler even came on, which I thought was odd… I have managed to get the humidity on mine down to 47% at -10, am out imaging tonight
  22. Well with the new BlurX AI4 now available, this is all moot anyway, as that corrects just about any aberration, especially where mis-shapen stars are concerned, it just adds another $100 onto the price of the scope…which at this price point is not bad.. Oh, but you do need pixinsight, so maybe more like $300 if you don’t have it already….👍🏻
  23. I have just watched the video, and I was left a bit unsure, as he was very careful how much of the aberration inspector images he actually showed from certain scopes, he showed more of the ones that were much better, and showed, and said less. about the ones, that I assume were not so good, like the Askar.. 🤔🤔
  24. You are correct with EQMOD you don’t need an ST4 cable, you just need the USB cable from camera to PC and EQMOD cable from mount to the PC, also EQMOD needs to be set to “pulse guide” mode and NOT “ST4 mode”. It sounds like the mount is not getting any commands at all, so a setting must be wrong somewhere, probably in EQMOD
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