Stuart1971

Yes...I did try locktight, but it can get Into the bearing if you are not careful, it was not superglue I used (my bad) I used but a blob of hot glue, as it comes off in one lump and leaves no residue, and will hold the ring in place on the outside....with no possible issues for the bearing

There are many errors in there, and if you read my first post regarding this I said, IN MY OPINION, and it’s just that, I have stripped and re built this mount a few times...and I first used this guide, and would never use again, as I found many errors and things that were just not correct....but it’s all in my opinion, and I am not going to slate the guide on here, it’s not the time or the place...it can be useful to a beginner, but there are quite a few techniques in there that need to be updated for one reason and another....

I have just pointed out the errors in the EQ6 astro baby strip down, based on the job the OP needs to do, there was no point in telling them that the CW locking nut does not need to be tightened as per the guide, (again as tight as possible with half a turn back) as that would have been pointless... 👍

I think it is more likely to be the mesh adjustment. If you have made it worse, as tightening the worm locking nut would not do that, so you will need to strip down the R.A. housing and find the issue, it sounds like getting the engagement sorted...maybe order some new bolts and grub screws for the job too... 👍😀

I have, read my post again.... 🤔

That is very dated now and some things are incorrect...like in there it tells you so lock the locking ring as tight as it will go until it causes binding, then back off slightly, well by that time you could have damaged the bearings, so I would not use that...there is other incorrect advice in there too....just my opinion... 😉

Well in That case it could be the worm shaft bearings, as they are quite delicate hence not to overtighten the locking ring.. or a clutch issue..

I don’t think that play is from backlash so I really dont think loosening those 4 nuts is a good idea, as it’s a pain to set that, especially in the warmer weather, it really need to be set in The colder weather, or you will get binding I just dont think that the backlash would have altered that much to cause that, unless it’s always been like it since your mod, and so was not adjusted properly then...

There is a special tool for tightening this, but circlip or long thin nosed pliers will also work... 👍 if you Have had the belt mod done, then it will almost certainly be this. As once undone for the mod, it will always work loose after, unless it’s locked down somehow, like I say a blob of glue on the outside of the lock ring into the threads will sort it..

Yes you need to check the worm locking ring under the black cap on the R.A., they do have a habit of working loose...a blob of super glue will help when tightened, if it is this don’t overtighten, just enough to remove the lateral play...take off the black cap and rock it you will see the play...I think it’s the cap on the control board side, not the other... 👍

It is an option on PI3 just waiting for USB boot on PI4 now.. 👍

Yes just use disc image software to create a back up image... I have done that.. 👍 https://sourceforge.net/projects/win32diskimager/

Hmmmm, looks very interesting... 👍

Personally, I would never use a polar scope as the chances are that they are not perfectly aligned with the mount..or aligned within there own tube, they can be calibrated but I would not bother..... Use a scope and a camera and use sharpcap, or even better buy a polemaster camera... As for home position it is a good idea to mark on the mount the home position so you can repeat this, a small sharpie mark on the mount will help...

You have 4 files highlighted in the box shown in the image above...

Yes the above is correct, just highlight one image at a time... 👍

I too would like to here some reviews of the new Skywatcher EQ8-r Mount, and whether it’s much better than the original, ie, less backlash...I know they are supposed to have a better designed clutch fitted, which is good as the old ones are diabolical, holding wise and the fact they cause radial movement on the DEC shaft when tightened due to the bad design...which In turn does not help with the backlash.... Not sure the move to belt drive on the DEC axis was a good idea or not, as the direct driver seemed to work well, but it was done to make the mount easier to balance... hmmmm did not really need that... as bad me on the EQ8 is not an issue as it’s such a beast of a mount, it can handle slight offset very well.... So if there are any EQ8-r owners out there....pipe up... 😀😀

I have just updated again and all is good....whatever the issue it’s sorted... 👍

I thought the whole point was position repeatability, which you won’t get on grass.. 🤔🤔

Yes I had same issue, but Jasem sorted mine....it was down to a driver with one incorrect symbol in the code and so it won’t load any of the INdI drivers....and only the third party ones... But I would have assumed he had updated the source....

Can’t see the point for the sake of £10 as the parts to make one would cost as much.... 👍👍

Hi, am trying to work out some settings for autofocus, and wanted some input in case my maths it wrong, as it’s not my strongpoint... First of all critical focus zone, my scope is an f5.3 and my camera has 7.8 micron pixels, so am I correct in saying that the CFZ is approx 70 microns..? Secondly working out what size each step is from my focus motor, which is a Pegasus, to move tube from fully in to fully out is 20,000 steps, to move the tube 15mm it is 7086 steps. So I calculate this to 0.0021 mm per step, or 2 microns, is this correct, if so does that mean I have 35 steps in the CFZ....?? 😀 hope that all makes sense, as it seems to in my head, but if someone could clarify I would be grateful 👍

Hello, I have an EQ8 mount, and have recently tried to polar align with a Polemaster, which worked very well, UNTIL I tried to tighten the securing bolts down, which seemed to shift the alignment somewhat, is this normal...? When tightening the two hex side bolts on the DEC it seemed to shift very slightly, and also the two on the RA base plate that secure it to the pier top... Also there is a certain amount of backlash in the DEC adjustment screw which I notice when going from one direction to the other... Anybody with an EQ8 notice these issues...?

There are a few mounts already out there with built in USB hubs... IOptron CEM 60 and CEM 129 and Skywatcher EQ8-r

Yes I run mine from the handset port on the mount straight to the PC...with EQMOD cable, as the EQMOD driver gives you loads more options... 👍😀