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About fireshipjohn

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    essex uk
  1. Annoying clouds here in Essex but got some decent breaks, poor photo with the phone, but nice small disk
  2. Hi, Yes, but a 6 quid all I see are the cases, were up to around 13 quid for the real thing, or 18 quid for the case included. Still seems a good deal for tinkerers! John
  3. Hi, Take a look at this thread, quite a lot of work on an autoguider has already been done, https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=45246 The software works nicely although I've never used it in anger John
  4. Excellent seeing in Essex, much to my surprise! John
  5. Hi Interesting, but there may be practicalities of 3D printing that stop you printing some of those designs without modification. The filter wheel for example would have great difficulty with the required threads as I suspect they are just to fine to be printed accurately. Also you ideally need one side of each part to be flat for easy printing, you can use support structures, but its usually not as good as a redesign. I wonder what other people have achieved in terms of a fine thread? I'm OK at M10/12 but haven't tried anything finer! John
  6. Hi, I think the issue with noise is only because they are powering radio receivers locally. No need for diodes etc, just use one for the Odroid, one for the SATA/Hub etc as required. Not sure any switching regulator is going to be much cleaner. Adafruit says they use an MP2307 The 9A part uses an MIC2101. The difference is that the UBEC are made in the thousands (millions?). Going for smaller parts gives you the option of fitting a separate linear 5v feed just for the camera if it is required. However if an all in one solution suits you better that's fine... John
  7. Hi, The other (cheaper) alternative is to use a RC modellers UBEC 5V@3A <£3 ?? Search on Ebay for UBEC 3A. Even Adafruit sell a version. John
  8. I wouldn't. The acrylic is really weak and flexible, and it needs to be rigid. Take a look at these: http://semiu.co.uk/product/prusa-i3-complete-kit/ A couple of us here have these and they are reliable and strong, look thru Teckydaves build log here, that got me hooked Good Luck! John
  9. Hi, I have had good success with my printer (same as Teckydave's elsewhere here) using dilute pva glue for PLA. Not tried ABS yet. When its comes off the bed like yours I know its time to clean and reapply some fresh PVA! Also for designs like the one discussed here I always enable a brim to ensure its got good edge adhesion and then it's easy to break off when complete. John
  10. Hi Gina, One that caught me out before, delayMicroseconds() only works up to 16384. See here: https://www.arduino.cc/en/Reference/DelayMicroseconds John
  11. Wow thats quite a website, the H W English catalogue bought back many memories! My first telescope can from there, and yes lots of Polarex/Unitron stuff,,
  12. Hi Chris, That's interesting. Inspired by this thread I bought my own i3 (same one as TekkyDave ) and I've been using it quite happily for the last 3 months. I have printed the same type of pulleys as you show in PLA and never had a problem like that, I have added a cooling fan, but I found it didn't make any difference so I leave it off. Your early pulley prints look like they are way too hot? Have you tried something like this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:217793 - thats for PLA and takes some fiddling to enter the temperatures, but its very useful to see the temperature effects. After doing this I knew my PLA temperature should be 190. You can see the difference 5 degrees makes. John
  13. Hi Gina, Of course when you complete this project it will guarantee no rain for at least 8 weeks John
  14. Hi Again, Apparently you can use: G4 S60 # Pause for 60 seconds Seems a bit more useful! John
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