MarkAR

Just finished processing the drizzled data and found I could do more with it sharpening without introducing very much noise. . Tiff added below. LRGB_M101_Drizzle.tif

Great image, well done.

Superb, nice range of blue and yellow stars.

All great images, well done everyone.

OMG, this thread is 9 years old !

I got pulled in on an emergency job for one. Basically sub contracted to make parts of a replica yacht in silver. Six or more separate workshops attempting to make a scale model form photographs on a short deadline.

I know a metal spinner that has done 18ct gold telescope tubes for Arab princes, classic naval scopes rather than astro I believe. Wouldn't even like to guess the price of them now that gold prices are high again.

Well done, that is one small smudge I couldn't even get close to.

Excellent, lovely detain showing up.

I was in the same boat, nearly all the best freebies are PC. So do I run windows on a Mac, no chance. Played around with SIRIL, ASTAP and LYNKEOS, all native for Mac and couldn't get on with them. Currently on a trial period of Pixinsight, probably seems like the most expensive but if you factor in it's an all in one pre and post processing piece of software, it's stable, loads of tutorials around, targeted at AP and it is brilliant. No need for any other processing apps. For image capture and automation KStars/Ekos is free and works well.

By the look of the thickness of your parts I think M5 or M6 threaded holes will be no problem. The adjustment screws will only be taking a little pressure, I remember hearing that maximum load can be placed on a M6 bolt using just 3 full turns. Call it 6 for plastic, so 6mm thick material will be plenty. I see that the print failed at 80% yesterday, is this just scrap now ? If so drill and tap a couple of 6mm holes and see if you can rip them out. Just thought, if you used the screw adjustment method then you should allow some slack in the ring diameter. probably 1 -2 mm will be plenty especially if you do it for both lenses.

If you are running a computer controlled filter wheel the order doesn't matter as you have to tell it which filter is in what position. It will then select filter by position. If it's a manual wheel stick to LRGBHOS. Sequence wise for LRGB I have been running equal length LRGB, same quantity, binned 1x1. Others bin RGB 2x2. BTW I use a mono CCD not CMOS. You should focus on each different filter and a few times per filter to take into account atmospheric and temperature shift. There is a YouTube video of Dr Robin Glover speaking about imaging times, one thing I gathered is that he seems to be saying RGB should be 3 x longer than L. And NB maybe 10 x. You will need to take flats for each filter. Also if you change binning you will need to take separate darks, flats and bias at the new binning rate. Mind you the 1600 is a CMOS so not sure if you can do binning.

Superb image. Also check out the barred ring galaxy to the right.

Possibly the most helpful and dangerous tool known to astro kind 😆

Very good mate, central core is not blown out which is usually tricky to achieve with globs. Only one thing but it might be my screen compared to yours is a pinkness to some of the central stars.

Always nice to see another Wave 115EDT.

Lovely image. Possibly by splitting colour channels and recombining them with NB filters added ???

Lovely images, third one looks a bit like a vortex forming.

Sounds like you'll be moving into the realm of scope rings type affair. You'd really need 3 or 4 adjustment points on either lens or camera. It might be easier room wise to do it at the front lens side of things. Wonder if you can just drill and tap your printed parts, one in the base and 2 on the top clamp giving a Y form adjustment like a scope ring.

Very strange, I'm currently watching Adam Blocks series on WBPP. Not sure if there would be anything on the videos that might help though.

Glad you got to the bottom of this. Why the hell manufacturers have to bury this sort of information I don't know.

Altair Astro do a couple of small triplets, not sure about the weight on a SkyGuider though.

I think it's a great re-work. The blue is fine, just about right I would say.

Maybe take a bit of sand paper to the opposite side of where it needs to be shimmed.

Yes, you'll need the filters. Also consider the Ha, Oiii and Sii for doing nebulae.