MarkAR

One little shim on the side by the looks of it and you're done.

I use an Altair 224 GP3 colour with no problems. It doesn't need to be sharply focused to work so having higher resolution may be moot.

The rendering looks good Gina, should be able to re-use the existing top caps. Just out of interest, where did you shim to get better alignment. Was it under the base or between the camera body and printed mount ? If it was the base you could add a "jacking screw" in each corner to add a little torsion if necessary but not sure how well the printed plastic would take to small threads.

No worries mate, your edit definitely shows up some of the fainter stars in the galaxy.

Lovely image, much better with the crop.

Cheers Miguel and @x6gas, I did do a very gentle sharpen on the galaxy but one step more introduced noise/ harshness that I didn't like so left it dialled back.

Projected onto a mirror or dark glass ? Or could it be a bowl of water ?

Yes, hit the play button. That should open up the INDI Control Panel. At the top are tabs showing which equipment is in your profile that it is trying to connect to. At the bottom there is a log showing what it is doing. Wait for the log to stop. The baud rate will be on the tab for your camera, drop down menu shows different rates. Change the rate and click connect and let it run. Hopefully it will cycle through all the port and baud rate options until it connects.

Nice detail and you've picked up some good proms.

Great effort for difficult conditions. Colour could do with a tweak, it's showing a bit reddish/magenta.

Excellent images, one of the best whales I've seen. Pixinsight can be very daunting and following someones workflow can get you into trouble. For many things it's a case of what exactly needs doing in each process in MY image. It can be very different to someone else's even using the same tools. There are also numerous ways to do many processes and deciding what works best can be difficult so there's a lot of experimenting and backtracking involved.

Looks like a design flaw. Probably should have used a hex head on the bolt, that way the lever would have been beefier.

Well done. I like the RGB gif, really shows the focus problem.

Hi Louise, I don't have one but the payload of 5Kg is something to be careful with. As long as you don't overload it it sounds like it'll be fine.

I was going to suggest shimming with bits of paper. You've nearly cracked it. Depending on where you've shimmed it might just need moving slightly.

Thanks for the likes and replies chaps. I realised earlier that I'd posted up a "low" res jpeg and not the 16bit tiff so adding that below. I was quite amazed that I started picking up the faint outer arm on the left side. Also NGC 5477 at the top is coming through quite well, easier to see zoomed in on the tiff. Next to tackle the drizzles data and see if anything improves. M101-Pinwheel Galaxy.tif

How about an open u shape support right at the front of the lens. All it has to do is take little strain off the rear attachment to the cams, doesn't have to be clamped around the lens.

Hi All, just finished a process of my M101 data taken a few days ago. All subs are 6 minutes, binned 1x1, total integration time 6hours 24 minutes. L x 13, R x 18, R x 15, B x 18.

Superb images.

Lovely image and I really like the gentle colour scheme, very relaxing.

OK, set up a new profile with just your guide camera. Plug camera into computer. Let it run through detection process. If nothing then change the baud rate to 115000 and let it run again.

Worth having a look on astroboot.co.uk As for Clear Outside, alternate with the Met Office. It's great when the disagree and then both change their minds to the opposite and still disagree.

Not quite a bulls eye.

Not sure how well it would work but I think the USB 2.0 B plug will fit the USB 3.0 B socket.

Well done, glad you finally sorted out all the confusion.