Nigella Bryant

Hi rusted, I'm decking the edge's so should be fine but I want the cat's to be able to go under and evict anything, lol.

I've done the same as I've done my RoR which was ten years old and no rot so figured using the same method was good. There is going to be a damp proof membrane going on the outside timber and the inside before the inner timber floor and flooring are put down. Thanks for your input thoughts, always good to have other opinions for others reading the posts. Also got two cat's who already go under the timber, lol.

Higher floor going inside and decking on the exposed outside.

I've a Lunt 60mm DS, love it and it's my most used scope, lol. Used solely for imaging. I had to change the O'rings and blue filter beginning of the year, but brilliant now. Recent image's with my DS.

Welcome back, hope you get great views of the comet, not clear here until Friday

All sorted, dome went on a treat with no issues with rotation.

We should all be in our own bubble when it's on, lol.

Funny rusted, lol. Do we have to use facemasks? All happening at 12noon today.

Similar to what I got yesterday with my Lunt 60mm DS and zwo ASI 178mm.

Dome put together today ready for social distancing lifting with friends tomorrow.

Thanks, I only just managed to image this with the wind and fast moving cloud. Yeah, it was a lovely lift of prom and some amazing magnetic activity too.

No a dedicated ha filter for DSO will not work, it's not the same as ha etchlons. Please don't attempt this. The sun is very dangerous and needs dedicated equipment. Your eye's aren't worth the risk. Always use proper solar filters.

Hiya, the image looks like it's not focused to me. It looks ill-defined. I usually use sharpcap and focus looking at the edge of the solar disk.

Hi all, quite a lot of solar magnetic activity today with several features. Lunt 60mm DS, Zwo Asi 178mm. Autostakker3, ImPPG and Photoshop CS2. Struggled with the wind and processing so this is the best I can get today.

Many thanks John, received then, much appreciated.

Thanks Steve.

Thanks, I'll pm you.

Brilliant, your dome build has come on very well, even after a few hiccups. I'm still only at the wall stage, lol. Weather disruption stops play, lol. Can I ask what drive you have for the dome? I've an older type pulsar 2.7m and would like to add a drive to the dome. Not bothered about the shutter.

Welcome to the forum.

Fantastic image's, really good considering the altitude of both planets from the UK.

Hi all, After promising this tutorial a few weeks ago, I've just got time to get to grips with this and hopefully help others. I've developed my skills with image acquisition and processing over the last year since acquiring my Lunt 60mm DS. Attaining on band is crucial to gain detailed images and to get the most out of a HA telescope. It had come to my attention after looking at images taken near the same time as mine with the same equipment and seeing that these images had shown a lot less detail or no detail than what I have become accustomed to even if the disc is not particularly active. So this is my usual work flow when first setting up the Lunt telescope for HA observation and imaging. I tend to use a laptop to observe electronically and image. It fascinates me after an imaging session just to sit and look at the sun on the computer screen and zoom in on various features that I see. The acquisition software that I use is Sharpcap. So after setting up the Lunt on the mount (Skywatcher SolarQuest Mount and EQ6 tripod) I attach my Zwo Asi 178mm. 1. First get the best focus that you can, this is critical and I zoom in and out to find the optimum point. I then usually acquire my first avi file just in case the clouds roll in. Then I fine tune the Lunt a little to see if I can tweak a little more detail from adjusting the tuning and tilt tuner on the double stack. I have also found that the telescope appears to be optimum after thirty minutes (I assume this is because of the telescope blocking filter becoming warmed up to the outside temperature). 2. The image on the screen/in the eyepiece is often not quit on band or the illumination is not quit right. Dealing with the on banding is achieved by both tuning the Lunt (pressure tuned model) by turning the pressure tuner inwards (I usually unwind this after each session) until features become evident. This in turn affects the illumination and is sometimes not centred. Tune with the tuner and also if double stacked move the dial on the double stack unit until illumination is centred. I usually have the disk slightly over exposed so I can see the shift of illumination from the tuning and tilt adjustment as per screen shot in image 1 and 2 (I never take off the double stack unit). I don't always get this right, particularly if clouds are rolling in and I need to be quick to acquire data. 3. Full illumination is beneficial so you don't have to take flats because the image is illuminated across the image with no bright spots. This also benefits when you come to process the image and makes processing much easier as you don't have to fight uneven illumination. Hope this helps.

Thanks Andy and Mark, appreciate your comments.

Hi all, just sharing last three images/observations of the sun in full disk from the 16th, 20th and 25th June 2020. Lunt 60mm DS and Zwo Asi 178mm. Autostakker3, ImPPG and Photoshop CS2 was used in the process of each image.

I've had problems with Asi3 too, took me there goes to get it to stack a full disk solar image from the 20th June. I could have easily discarded the data as it came out blurry twice. I use a zwo ASI 178mm.

Hi, bought some but not the pulsar one's, they to expanded in the hot weather but went back to normal by the evening. These were the cheap £10 for 5 mats. In fact I've relaid these in my RoR and going to buy new one's for my pulsar dome.