Laurin Dave

Same for me Gav unless I park with the shutter over the door.. I had water coming over the top of the door, this gives the door opening a little more protection as the shutter is a couple of inches proud of the dome. Heavy rain recently and not a drop inside.. Dave

That looks just perfect as it is.. 🙂.. I always park mine with the shutter aligned over the door as it helps to keep the rain out . Also have p section stormguard around the door and as a drip strip around the dome.. Dave

Some of mine do and some are fractions of a mm too tall and rub on the faceplate. to get around this I have followed ZWO recommendation and turned the faceplate over so that the the face with the recess faces out.. this allows the wheel to move freely.. HTH Dave

Rather better than average I’d say.. are you using a KAF8300 camera? If so the spikes are caused by the micro lenses on the sensor. If not then I’ve no idea but would be interested in knowing Dave

That's fabulous Steve (not that the first wasn't!).. excellent separation between the double star on the trunk, you don't often see that. Esprit150s.. don't you just love them. Dave

Looking good Alan, pleased you got it sorted Dave

Nice one Rodd.. I can see a face Dave

Hi Rodd I like them both a lot but with a slight preference for the bottom one, it looks more natural (whatever that means) to me.. Perhaps combine the two sets of data for an even better one. Dave

I think its a tripod/camera thread which is 1/4” 20 unc or 3/8” 16 unc

Lovely, looks well cooked to me 😉

I can't see that it will work on that length of side by side bar, I'd investigate constructing a shorter one and having the Taks as close as possible . Also as the scopes are offset from the centre of the dome the effective width of the shutter aperture (ie as seen by the scopes) will be less than 590 mm.

Very impressive images and a lovely field of view. The halos are I suspect reflections off the Oiii filter (and maybe also the Sii as there are magenta halos around the stars in the SHO version... Astrodons or Chromas I'm afraid £££).. I don't know how to deal with the blue ones in processing (I'm sure there is one) but in the SHO version in Pixinsight do this ... invert the image (in the menu .. Image Invert) , run scnr green (adjust to taste) then re-invert and they're gone or at least diminished HTH Dave

Alan Same here, a 10deg temperature drop would put my Esprit 150 way out of focus.. maybe thats what is happening.. perhaps over the summer the temperature was more stable. Here its currently going from 17C to 4C overnight, a month ago it was 21C down to about 17C Dave

Looks to me as if it stops tracking and then re-starts, how often does it do it? Worm period is 480 secs so maybe its binding Dave

Looking very good, how long till the twin Esprit 150s are in action? Dave

Alan Have you tried it with the IR/UV cut filter.. that might be the problem... if you have then it clearly isn't Dave

Very nice, I took his advice too and now have a 100 and a 150. There's a bit of amp glow on the top right, classic 294, and easily removed by using matched darks to calibrate. What have you got on the other side? Dave

So long as APT is set to 16bit ie 0-65000 then no, what you are trying to do is to get the ADU to just less than half the max reading when the pixels are saturated (which is 65000 or so at 16bit). To test just your setup over expose and see what ADU reading you get... then set the exposure to give just under half of that.. You may also need to take matching flat darks at the same exposure/temperature ( I do with the ASI1600) to calibrate the flats, others with this camera will hopefully chip in on that Dave

I use a tracing panel and enough sheets of A4 writing paper to get to the right exposure.. 5-10 seconds for my camera. An iPad set to a white screen would also work. An ADU of 25-30000 based on 16 bit works well Dave

Very nice Brian.. I’d say it’s your best yet Dave

Wow! marvellous image

Is it connected via USB3? if so it should do 10fps ..

Looking good Alan, nicely framed and a good field of view, I expect the green cast is a gradient caused by the Moon.. Are you using Focusing Aid in APT ? its in the Tools tab or Alt+F shortcut it allows you to measure HFD or FWHM. Dave

Very nice Goran.. and no microlensing around Sadr! Dave

Alan Try searching for and downloading FITS viewer.. Dave