Laurin Dave

Vey nice Martin, looking forward to the Bi-colour. Wondering how you connect your lens to the camera. Dave

Hi Alan.. pleased to hear that you've got it working, can't answer your questions as have not used a colour camera, although I suspect it'll be to do with debayering. Excellent image though, nice tight stars, propellor clear and plenty of faint fuzzies... bodes extremely well for once you've got the colour sorted and cooling on. Dave

Very nice image and interesting idea Goran, looks good into the corners.. do you plan on testing on larger format sensors? The filter looks to have worked well too. Dave

I'd recommend you take a look at the Lightvortexastronomy website, it has an excellent tutorial on how to set up eqmod. Dave

Very nice Adam, look forward to seeing the completed image. Will you be getting any RGB? Dave

Another cautionary tale..... Last night at around midnight I noticed that my ASI1600MM's fan had decided that it no longer wanted to rotate and that the camera wouldn't hold temperature.. This morning I read Julian's thread, took the camera off to have a look and saw that the fan was covered in muck and spiders web! So removed the three screws holding the back plate on, took the plate off (it comes off with the fan attached to the inside), cleaned the fan and it is now working fine. Just shows how strong spiders web is.. Dave

Have you tried this pixinsight trick to get rid of magenta halos.. invert the image .. the halos will now be green.. use scnr to to remove the halos then re-invert and they're gone.. Dave

Looks to me as if it’s only guiding in RA, which is all the StarAdventurer can do. I’d check that you have the right settings/profile selected in PHD.. the bottom right box on the PHD image says “off”

I did this recently and to my surprise the Oiii seemed somewhat stronger and more detailed than the Ha.. so maybe that’s all you are seeing. Is it the same on other targets? If you haven’t then maybe try another target before concluding something’s wrong

Great image and mosaic... Its the micro lenses on the KAF8300 sensor .. quite normal on brighter stars Dave

Very nice Olly, a definite improvement, not that the previous one wasn't very good but the stars are nicer and the colour and detail improved. Dave

If the Hutech works use it! Shame about the TS one.. maybe some Matt black paint will sort it.. Dave

Maybe an internal reflection then from within the TS reducer from a nearby bright star (looks like Deneb is the culprit on your image of the Pelican particularly as the arc is so much brighter than in your M13 image) .. take the camera off and have a look through against a bright sky and see if there are any reflections from it.. are all surfaces Matt black or is it anodised black? (Which can reflect certain wavelengths) . what do your flats look like with the reducer on.. and also with it off.. when I had an internal reflection recently the flats showed a concentric ring.. a bit of black flocking sorted it out Dave

Worth it though Olly.. it looks really good on your wall 😊

Amazing for just 95 minutes! Dave

Hi Alan Some thoughts .. Maybe an internal reflection .. to check take the camera off, aim the scope at the sky and look through to see if there’s any unblackened bits showing.... maybe unlikely if it hasn’t happened before.. have you got the viewfinder cap on to prevent stray light getting in.. try taking a shot in daylight with the lens cap on and see whether you get the same pattern showing if so then figure out which bit is leaking light.. my filter wheel did from leds on the mount until I taped it all up .. so are there any leds that come close to the scope/ camera when it’s pointing straight up ... Dave

If you have it already why not put the 16200 on your 130 whilst you wait for the ODK ? Got on one my Esprit 150 and it works well with decent resolution at 1.2"pp and double the fov of the ASI1600 and no artefacts on bright stars. Dave

That'll be for data gathering not processing though ..

Hi Alan.. Not really sure about that... I've Only done one mosaic so far (with another I got at Olly's yet to do) and that was in Pixinsight where it said to make sure the edges were artefact free ie cropped to remove. Dave

Very nice Alan for 45 minutes, its those dark skies... glad you've got it all working again. As Neil says easier just to crop them out.. did you move the scope or are they from dithering.. if you are dithering you'll always get a border (well I do) Dave

Got one too.. great camera, only the 5 posn wheel though.. as you say after sales excellent and they’re only just down the road from me.. maybe a photo of you standing proudly beside it would give us all a better sense of scale. When do you anticipate first light? Dave

Hi Gordon.. that all looks great .. the Lakeside focuser will fit on the FT.. with a custom bracket got one on mine, works well. SX-46 or 56 ? Dave

You’re welcome Alan.. Better not touch anything then 😉

Excellent .. well done

Hi Alan I suspect that's the issue and the old points need to be deleted especially if they've been around since before you put the dual scope on. To do this.. (if I remember correctly) open eqmod, click the spanner to get the full screen... in the alignment and sync box click on the two boxes with the red X on them to clear the sync and alignment data points... you can also click on the User interface box and set it to dialog based... (which has been recommended in this thread) then click on the box at the top left of the alignment/sync area (the alignment point list editor) and make sure all the boxes are unchecked... You will then clear all old data and it wont reload.. HTH Dave