RolandKol

My motor is Nema17PG27, which is a bit smaller and I hope I will manage to place it under the lens. By the way, while adjusting the lens holding bolts, - how do you know you do not introduce any tilt?

Nice! But I Would not like to leave camera hanging like this... Especially ASI+EWF...

I am actually in the beginning of modeling a 3D print for Sam135+ASi1600MM+EFW+DIY autofocuser+Guider all in one larger bracket, which will be printed from around 4 parts. The largest Headache is to keep lens and cam straight, without any tilt, plus I want to avoid any adjustments bolts like usual guider-scopes have. The goal, - Model like: "fit it in and forget it, as all in line, no adjustments needed")...... Also, to place the motor somewhere as low as possible is quite challenging "space-wise and balance-wise"... Taking into account, I have both left hands it will take awhile! But I will try to share my progress if results will be not very miserable!

It looks like you will not be able to see the primary mirror holders via Cheshire just like me! Have fun! hehe I hope I am not right as this makes life much more difficult.... I even tried to place my ASI224MC directly into the draw-tube, as 224MC body is actually 2" and it fits perfectly, but... I did not like what I saw... Still cannot understand why the view was of-center... Will repeat it next week will post some pics.

Nice... The reply to my email was, - price is not known for UK till Brexit as taxation is not yet clear. P.S. Lets hope he will also add some USB slots and I would be happy to test it for Free! hehehehe

heh These are the results of proper tools in proper hands!!! I have both left hands I think... My result from only 2 sessions I managed to have using my Canon 1300D from London... I found it Very difficult to process...

Very Nice SteamPunk style Dome! Enjoyed to read from A to Z Especially to see how the motor suspension solution works Thanks a lot for sharing! P.S. Will you automate the roll off roof also?

The main word was a "Camouflage" You can reinforce it just like the pier! And use a hail-proof Kevlar if needed! Plus, the "Flight" yours had, probably was while it was wide open

Newtonian dual rig is possible, but... very very tricky to balance.... Keep in mind, your camera will be on the TOP end of the OTA... Refractors, are much easier in this case as all the weight is at the bottom and central. First of all, you will most likely need OAG, I tried to balance my 130PDS with Samyang 135mm+Canon on top and a SW 50ED guider... On NEQ6... No luck... plus if you will add autofocuser with a direct shaft connection, without the pulley, you will need to add quite a lot of weight at the bottom of the OTA, otherwise autofocuser will not fit, dovetail will be in the way (check my image carefully). And lastly, Even if I have managed to balance mine, - I am not completely happy... The setup became very, Very sensitive on guiding... I do not have constant guiding results now.. A bit worse seeing conditions and the PHD graph is all other the place... and my mount is NEQ6 not HEQ5... I do not say it is not possible in your case, - just sharing my experience.

@souls33k3r What about sticking in the Tall Garden Umbrella and use it as a camouflage once mount is covered properly? it will probably have some Mount corners sticking out a bit, but probably will do the job you need

Hmmm quite a list!!! https://astronomy-imaging-camera.com/product-category/discontinued-product I hope they are not planning to "Close the Shop" completely!

The problem is actually in all those tutorials... I fell on them, probably just like majority newbies did... I do believe my PDS was quite well collimated, but it was my first scope for AP, and I read a lot and checked youtube tutorials before I touched the secondary, and guess what? All of the tutorials suggest to adjust the secondary during the usual collimation routine of the primary, and guess what? None of them actually highlight, - "Do not touch the Central Bolt of the secondary!!!". So I have adjusted even the central bolt as other 3 were quite tight... And later star test became soo bad... Just like yours... And maybe even worse! And I had only laser at that time and could not figure out why it is so bad, as laser beam was in center and etc So I ordered Cheshire, while waiting it to come by post, disassembled scope into small peaces, flocked it, centered focuser, placed Autofocuser, put all back together and had a prolonged battle with the secondary... Which is not yet 100% finished P.S. But I would afraid to do it to Quattro!!! 130PDS is in completely different price range... in fact, thats why I bought it, - to learn the "anatomy" of the Newtonian! plus, I guess... Battle with F4 is much more difficult than with F5

Thanks a lot for your explanation. And yes, the main problem in my case with 130PDS, - the position of the secondary along the scope axis... As I simply not able to see the Primary Mirror Clips, so I constantly swap Cheshire with my EP Cap And it is the main pain... Once more or less in center, - I move the secondary in circles using 3 adj.bolts and once once clip starts to show, I move mirror other direction, - to hunt for the second clip, - later for the 3rd. Once I see that these adjustments are really minor, I check via the EP cap if the secondary mirror looks co-centric... if all looks nice, wait a week or even two for the clear skies to test!! Nightmare! I even tried adjusting the Primary into Top or Lower end of the OTA by adjusting it's collimation bolts to the end limit or loosening, - no use... Clips not visible in the Cheshire anyway... I even think of the artificial star and try the collimation using it. P.S. your images and Alnitak tells me all! you do all correctly!

My 130PDS does not want to show all mirror holders via long Cheshire whatever I do! I do have a special EP holder to make it square, - it helped a lot. And yes, - without it, it was more luck or guesswork even with cheshire.... However, 3 holders are not visible and it is still a bit of guesswork at the moment.... I do have a cheap laser, - do not trust it anymore... had funny results. I would be very glad if you would share your Secondary Collimation routine, - I want to get the secondary to perfect position during summer. Now it's very close, - even afraid to touch

Welcome to the collimation BattleField of the Secondary Mirror! It looks like you have PDS just like me... And I can assure you, even if you would have Cheshire - you would fail to place the secondary correctly from the first time. Without it, - not even worth a try... Laser will not help with this task.... So order one, - even second hand, try once received. Just not sure, which one is better for PDS, - short or long one... Short are used for refractors after focuser change, but long ones do not show mirror clips on PDS , - a bit too long. Maybe someone else is able to advice on it.

P.S. I just noticed TV like image if guide cam setup up via ASCOM driver and on 8bit, 16bit puts image back to normal

And I failed to produce the printable drawing... Scaling is changing once exported to .pdf of .jpg... I have not managed to find a proper settings to keep the scale 1x1... Maybe someone more experienced is able to do it properly Hole Dimensions bellow.

If you bought it new, I would send it back for a complete refund and would go ASI way.... if it was a second hand one... not sure what to advise...

so what about the latest PHD2 v2.6.6????

My cap is printing... also, .pdf version is ready for cap hole drills without removing the cap unfortunately, I do not have printer at home... Will print it tomorrow at work, to test the dimensions

it looks like ordinary DS18B20 for around £2 https://telescopes.net/store/primalucelab-temperature-sensor-for-sesto-senso-focus-motor.html

If one software does see it, but not the others, - probably driver issue. I am not very familiar with Windows 10 registries and etc, but sometimes they misbehave in such a manner that un-install and re-install drivers have not hellped... which forced me to re-install windows several times just to make some things to work (not AP related). In your case if a complete ASCOM and diver re-install does not work I would take another / fresh PC for test. Install all ASCOM related software (platform, drivers for the mount and camera), later dedicated cam drivers and the software for AP - run a test, if all goes fine. Wipe windows clean on the initial PC and repeat It is very unusual problem you have got... I had a similar one with EQMOD and mount connection (battle took around 1 month with my victory), once it started to work, I was afraid to wipe the windows for a year!

Nice Idea! I will prepare a 3d print replacement cap with a place for the small Allen key holder inside (so I will never forget it ever again!), plus the drawing will have the exact measurements of the holes for the original cap drilling task. Will share later on, once finish and test, as I never succeed to create a successful model from the first attempt!

I recall, I you already had one topic about it... PHD2 just released an update (2 days ago), - does it misbehaves also? as my ASImini was not recognized by previous version at all.

What about slider near the brain button at the bottom? Full to the right should make screen darker