RolandKol

just in case if @Marmo720 you want to look at them directlly, I have placed them here https://we.tl/t-NGasNtAx9s

yep... it may be on the flattener as the sensor was around 17C all the time... strange...

The one in the front is the stack of all subs

and 50% stack is here as we can see, we had 2 problems at once. Lights subs were taken during clouds or the frost was in place plus, - Flats not doing their job as underexposed.... Maybe something else, - but I would start from here.

Blink vid here https://youtu.be/Z03XYj-6h6c The more I look at it... the more I think it was frost..... Not sure.... 50% stack incomming P.S. it is my first Blink vid, - not sure how to increase the quality... on PI it looks a bit better

I cannot explain that, - have no relevant knowledge... Will stack half of the session later on and see that we have. PI now generating the Bling movie and I am cooking.... a bit too much of multitasking

Found the issue... Decided to Blink all lights before stacking again... Problem hides in the Lights.... Cloud came in.... half of them should be deleted before stacking.... Blink is generating the video at the moment, - will upload it soon also

Will stack without flats soon and see what we have.

Ok, so I took some time and stacked them all. I have autoremoved background from Light without any cropping and autostreached them using delinger script on Pi... Single subs did look nice and even master Flat looks even, but after correction it kills the right side of the images... AutoStreached Dark Flat Single Light Light (stacked) And the last, very interesting one, is Higher pixerl rejection map, which is genereted by Pi image integration tool

keep an eye on https://www.astrobuysell.com/uk/ it does have NEQ6 listings quite often

Not sure about visual, but with any basic cam, - it will not work with a bit longer exposures.... You may get away with planetary imaging... but not DSO, as mount will stuggle to track properly, plus... such a big scope will catch wind quite easy... Also... keep in mind... once you place a "basic" cam on... you will be doomed... You will most likely will get sucked into that "black hole of astrophotography" without any chance to escape.... HEQ5, in this case, is for 130PDS max... even 200P is a bit too large for HEQ5 if AP way is chosen. In your case, I would stay with 200P and as @carastro suggested, would check for NEQ6, - the second hand ones can be realitively cheap.

P.S. Will try stacking them on Monday... Flats actually do look matching the lights, which have almost no vignetting... I would guess, - result should be OK... lets see

Just checked my old Canon files, they have different sizes also... Please ignore my previous msg... Just a quick observation (loud thinking)... Flats should be a fracture of the second, - somewhere around one third of the sec . It can be a second also, but 10s is a bit too much in terms of efficency... it takes too long... and short flats usually work OK. Not sure if such a dim light, which enables 10sec Flats subs, is an issue, - but it may be.

Hi Mo, is there any particular reason why your different sub types have the different sizes??? Very strange.... Lights 24mb per sub, Darks/Bias - 19mb Flats -22mb I guess, you may have incorrect settings on APT for calibration subs..

Sad to hear it... I hope you will get better soon

Nope mate... As I mentioned before, I was made to crop the most of the image ;( As Carole said, it looks like flats are not applied properly, - so maybe you have a mistake in your staking routine? So if possible, drop the files into the share drive (all lights and new/old flats, also Master-bias, Master-dark (to save download/upload times). I will try to stack them to check if the result is the same, I have nothing to do anyway as my Filters are not yet arrived!!! (getting furious!!!! but maybe that's the reason, you guys, have some clear skies... )

Hi guys, Has anyone found any non-glossy PETG? I am planning to print some baffles for my SW 130PDS... Cannot find anything in UK... I think I will end up painting them, but I would like to avoid that

Try asking @Uranium235 directly, maybe he will advice The link below is to his comment about the equipment he used back in 2014

Nope, I meant, - if you noticed any focus change while you been using Bahtinov aid software and once you lock your focus by using the lock bolt shown in the pic.

Nice start! And yes, Autofocus makes life much easier... especially in Mono. What about your focus tube tilt? have you noticed any while locking the focus?

Also, with or without a tripod/mount?

Very nice data! but the stars.... You probably need to make (or 3D print) a spider vein and attach/hide camera cables to each vein to make star spikes more symmetric...

Just a small note for the future, Especially for the parts which are external (like cases and etc), which you would like to have "nice and shiny", - enable Combing>Not In The Skin. It will stop printer's travels above the flat/surface area and you will not have these diagonall strypes. Surface will look much nicer, but it will print a bit longer as travels will be via perimeter. P.S. As per rethorical question about material for hinges: For this type of model and In theory, the best material should be Nylon. But PETG or PLA would be more practical option for Ender 3.

I also vote for PETG, as I had nasty PLA experience during a summer time....

OMG... I just found Tenlog 3D Hands 2... Very interested..... they do have even larger ones.... cheap... but... this is probably that I want please, talk me AWAY from THIS Purchase....