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Showing results for tags 'imaging'.
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After a 20 year long hiatus - my last astrophoto was captured with a film camera in 1997 - at the beginning of 2020 I decided it was time to start again. So, January 25th 2020 I brought home my used Sky-Watcher NEQ6 Pro and I immediately started taking photos. Obviously, my first target was M42 in Orion. This was my first digital astrophotography. 31 subframes, 30s each, taken at ISO800 with my unmodified Nikon D90, Nikkor 70-300mm at 300mm f/6.3 - January 28th, 2020, home front yard, Bortle 5/6 sky, no guiding, no filters. A grand total of 15.5 minutes... A couple of week
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Hey everyone. Have previously stumbled across this forum when searching for answers to questions, have finally made an account. Last night I shot the moon for a couple of hours. I took around 10x3 minute videos and captured a little over 80,000 frames. My aim was to then create a lunar mosaic image but I have never done this before, and my technical ability seems to be adding to the confusion. So to give some context, I used an ASI120MCS planetary camera through an 8" Skywatcher Skyliner 200p dobsonian. I have read that ideally you would use a tracking mount to record section
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Hi I've got an 8" dobsonian and I just got a dslr to connect to it. Obviously there's no tracking so what kind of things can I capture. Will I be able to do dso and planets? Thanks
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Hello all. I’ve tried a few times in the last month to image Mars but have had very little success. Although a decent size, Mars is very blurry and wobbly. I am fairly new to the hobby, but I would say it appears to be poor seeing conditions. I am using a Celestron 6SE and Canon 600D. I have tried 2x and 3x Barlow. I focus using a bahtinov mask (on stars). I used movie crop mode on various ISOs and exposures, stacking at least 3000 frames (keeping the best 1%, 2%, 5%, etc). Is Mars too far away now? Or am I underestimating how rarely you get a night of good seeing? How do you find o
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Hi All, I have a Star Adventurer but have had problems getting consistent results even when setup was as near to perfect as I can do, (this was focussed on due to this issue). It took me a while to find out that when the eyepiece is is extended for focus it is very loose, so loose the graticule moves indipendantly of Polaris / background. I have asked the supplier, "Astroshop.eu", to highlight the problem and ask for their feedback. Question to Astroshop.eu: I have had a constant issue with Polar Alignment. As I cannot use it so often, (visibility), it
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I would like to share my fourth image. With my "lucky week" of imaging, along with M33, I managed to finish also this project. This is my longest integration to date. These are IC 405 and IC 410, also known as the Flaming Star Nebula and the Tadpole Nebula, respectively, taken over 7 nights, under my Bortle 5/6 home sky. Total integration time: 18h 29m 00s. Here are the acquisition details: Mount: Sky-Watcher NEQ6 Pro Telescope: Tecnosky 80/480 APO FPL53 Triplet OWL Series Camera: D5300 astromodified Reducer/flattener: Tecnosky 4 elements, 0.8x Guid- 12 replies
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I would like to share my third image. I finally had a "lucky week", since my last session, December 18th. I managed 5 clear nights out of the past 6 (has to be a record, at least for me and my area) and I was able to finish a couple of projects I had started long ago and start a few new ones. This is M33, also known as the Triangulum Galaxy, taken over 10 nights, under my Bortle 5/6 home sky. Total integration time: 10h 14m 00s. Here are the acquisition details: Mount: Sky-Watcher NEQ6 Pro Telescope: Tecnosky 80/480 APO FPL53 Triplet OWL Series Camera: D5300
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I'm new to the astrophotography hobby. I have experience with astronomy. I am struggling to make decent deep sky images (other than M42). The images don't seem to have much definition or brightness despite a decent overall exposure time. See the below images. I have seen on this forum that people are able to take awesome images of the below objects with my same setup. Is anyone able to tell me if I am missing something, please? Do I need even more exposure time? I use a Celestron 6SE with unmodified Canon 600D. It has a goto alt az, no EQ. I use a bahtinov mask to focus. Both images were -
which webcam is best for planetary imaging under 25 USD . If you have experience of any webcam for planetary work please help me out -
Just sending a query out there to anyone who has experience imaging at public sites on Dartmoor? Looking to learn about good locations, how this is received by the National Park authority (if imaging through the night) etc...
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I was thinking, does an apo produce better images than an achromatic refractor for narrow band imaging? Chromatic aberration should not be an issue for NB but I read somewhere that for apo's spherical aberration is corrected for two wavelengths vs one for achromats. Cheers!
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I would like to share my second image. This is IC 1499, also known as the California Nebula, taken over 4 nights, under my Bortle 5 home sky. Total integration time: 10h 21m 00s. Here are the acquisition details: Mount: Sky-Watcher NEQ6 Pro Telescope: Tecnosky 80/480 APO FPL53 Triplet OWL Series Camera: D5300 astromodified Reducer/flattener: Tecnosky 4 elements, 0.8x Guide-scope: Artesky UltraGuide 60mm f/4 Guide-camera: ZWO ASI 224MC 2020/11/06: Number of subs/Exposure time: 23@180s + 41@240s. Notes: L-Pro filter, Moon 67% illuminated 202
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Hello everyone, I'm looking to buy some NB filters and wanna make the best decision. 1. Does the size of the filter impacts the quality of the image? (is it a big impact?) 2. I know that lower HBW is best, but... for example: does the difference between 35nm and 7nm is worth the price? 3.Can you recommend some H-alpha, OIII, SII? Thank you in advance! Cheers, Vlad
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Hello there, I'm trying to reignite my interest in astronomy after a few years off. I want to get into imaging (not in an expensive way) beginning with a simple setup. A few nights ago I was in my back garden with my Sky-Watcher Heritage-76 Mini Dobsonian and Canon EOS M camera connected to an eyepiece adapter (this one.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Celestron-93640-Universal-Barlow-T-Adaptor/dp/B00009X3UV/ref=asc_df_B00009X3UV/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309904628344&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9227521492625195769&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c& -
I would like to share my first picture ever posted and the first real picture captured with my Tecnosky 80/480 APO FPL53 Triplet OWL Series (not counting the test shots for "first light"). This is IC 1805, also known as the Heart Nebula, taken over 4 nights, under my Bortle 5 home sky. Total integration time: 8h 52m 20s. Here are the acquisition details: Mount: Sky-Watcher NEQ6 Pro Telescope: Tecnosky 80/480 APO FPL53 Triplet OWL Series Camera: D5300 astromodified Reducer/flattener: Tecnosky 4 elements, 0.8x Guide-scope: Artesky UltraGuide 60mm f/4
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Hi folks, This is one of those questions that over the last year, I am still not that sure on the best set up of my imaging train for planetary imaging using a CPC1100. In my train is first the visual back, X2 Barlow (or powermate 2.5), manual 5 filter wheel, ADC and then the ASI290MC camera. So they say the further the ADC is from the sensor the more adjustment it has but do you have the filter wheel in front of the ADC and camera or the ADC then the filter wheel next to the camera?.
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HI All, I have nikon d3200 , is it good for astrophotography? i tried with 18-140mm lens but the shots are too much white not good..do i need to upgrade to d3400 or d5300 or d5600?
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I have already posted my first astrophotographic session report in the telescope review thread: Tecnosky 80/480 APO FPL53 Triplet OWL Series - Review. But since that is more of a general review/diary of my experience with the new telescope, I feel some of the issues I am having are being buried and they will probably get more visibility if I post them - in a more synthetic version - in a dedicated thread. So, a few nights ago (October, the 5th) I took out my new telescope for its first light. All the photos have been taken with the 0.8x flattener/reducer and the Optolong L-Pro 2" filter a
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I have been waiting for this telescope for almost five months. Since May, 19th, to be precise. The day I went to the TS Italia store and saw for the first time the SLD model, model now discontinued. I even missed the last available piece just for a few days, once I finally placed my order, June, 25th. It was to be replaced by a newer model, available at the end of the Summer. Boy, am I glad I did miss it. The wait was definitely worth it. The new and improved model is simply beautiful. I fell in love with it as soon as I saw it on the Tecnosky website a few weeks ago, when they posted the
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Having previously got some reasonable images by mounting a smart phone to the eyepiece. I thought I would try for a more sophisticated set up. So last night I tried to get some pictures of the moon using a Canon Eos D450 connected to a Skywatcher 130p Newtonian via a T2 connection on the eyepiece holder. As the camera has automatic focusing built into the lens I thought I would have to adjust the focuser on the eyepiece holder to manually get a sharp image. Basically the telescope acting as a manually focused lens for the camera. But no joy, I just got a bright light which
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Hi, I would like to share with you an article written by me on high-resolution solar imaging in different wavelengths. Glad that the European Physics Journal (EPJ) Web of Conferences published it. You can read it at: https://www.epj-conferences.org/articles/epjconf/abs/2020/16/epjconf_seaan2020_01002/epjconf_seaan2020_01002.html You can see the different layers of the Sun in high-resolution images using different setups. Best regards. Alfred
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Hi, I wan't to tell you about a relatively new open source imaging suite that I have been using for around 7-8 months now. Night time imaging n' astronomy or in short NINA! The new website is really quite informative, so check it out here: https://nighttime-imaging.eu/ As a software developer and IT professional I was blown away by this application these guys were creating, when I first stumbled upon it last year. It is a really feature rich application as the very long feature list below will show, and it is absolutely free! I was immediately drawn to the v- 144 replies
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Hi there! I am seeking for advice from you good people. I want to create a setup for stargazing which is fully automated. Ideally every process like scope calibration, guiding, tracking, focusing and taking photos should be done through WiFi, preferably from an iPad tablet. Planetary imaging is the main purpose. I don't really care about deep space imaging. I want the whole setup to be rather cheap, small and light, at the expense of imaging quality. I am a total noob (used to play with an ETX-70 lots of years ago), but I really need the functionality I have described above -
I think I need help with my Photoshop settings. I've been processing my photos and been very unhappy/depressed with the results. I then realized that they looked a lot better on my phone than on my PC screen. I did some testing and I discovered that Photoshop (CS4 - both 32bit and 64bit) and the basic Windows viewer [the two things I've been using all this time to look at my images] are displaying poorer quality views of my images than other viewers or programs. (see attached images) I think I just noticed this because I just got a CMOS OSC camera and was expecting a lot better than i -
Probably an old discussion but lets review it with some measurements: The dark noise should only have a small influence on the total noise of the final image. Most noise is generated by the sky background. Under good conditions SQM = 20.4, I measure using my ASI1600MM-Cool the following noise (standard deviation) in a dark and in a light for an area where no stars are visible (local measurement using ASTAP): Dark 1 x 200sec, σ = 15 (range 0..65535) Light 1 x 200sec, σ = 130 The noise in the dark is roughly 12% of the light, which seems acceptable to me. That would argue for about
