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Showing results for tags 'imaging'.
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Hello, I am in the process of setting up an imaging platform and would greatly appreciate some feedback on how to power the setup. My component list is as follows: GEM45 mount 107PHQ refractor (yet to arrive) IMX571 mono cam (yet to arrive) 50mm guide scope and QHY 290M guide cam Pegasus Pocket Powerbox Micro (yet to arrive) 7 port powered USB hub (yet to arrive) Pi with Astroberry The platform would be setup around 10m away from the house, with the option to use an extension power lead from house to mount . I am trying to avoid power cabling as much as possible and have seen a few posts which suggest that I could use the Nevada PSW-30 as a single source to power the entire rig, with room for expansion. Which brings me to my questions: 1. How do I connect the Nevada to the Pegasus Powerbox? The Nevada has binding posts as output, while the Pegasus has a standard 2.1mm DC jack. Do I need to make my own power cable? 2. Once I have the above power connection sorted, what would be the ideal location (in terms of equipment safety from elements, power distribution etc) of the Nevada? Would it be better to either: a) Keep the Nevada (mounted inside some protective box) near the rig and run a 10m extension lead from the house? b) Keep the Nevada in the house and run a 10m DC power cable from Nevada to the rig? 3. If I end up using all 4 of the DC power jacks from the Pegasus and I need more, how would I get this (assuming that I can't source power from the USB)? 4. In a set up like this, do I need to use Powerpole connectors at all? If yes, at which entry/exit points in the rig would I use them? Thanks very much. Felix -
Hi, been trying a few times to image with a Coronado PST and cannot get focus. With the ZWO 224MC I tried printing a "low profile nosepiece" found on the internet and that didn't work - the camera looks like it needs to go further into the eyepiece holder - some people have managed to get it to work I don't know how. So I modelled another low profile nosepiece which has a 4mm depth groove around the bottom of the nosepiece face so it can sink into the Coronado eyepiece holder 4mm more - nope still no focus. People have suggested unscrewing the lens part of a barlow out and using that with the camera nosepiece, tried a 2x Meade telenegative and a generic 5x - nope makes it worse. So today I tried a DSLR connected to a t nosepiece extension tube and ran into the same issues. I don't know how people are managing to image with this scope - I know it's not designed to be imaged with but it is something I wish to do considering others have managed it. On another note, how clear is surface detail visually on a PST, I can manage to see sunspots but no light/dark granular structure, with the focus ring dialled all the way to the left I can see prominances, sunspots with the ring dialled more to the right though most of the time its all a red blur - checked the ITF and that's clear (it's the newer type PST). -
I've tried searching for this issue, it was suggested to get a better usb 3 cable which I've done but the issue persists. It's annoying because if I can't sit there monitoring it it could take minutes or hours before the camera disconnects (or turns off) from the asiair hence stopping the plan, it's usually minutes. The stupid thing is all I have to do is switch it back on in the app and reselect the camera (no physical intervention). Config: Asiair pro powered via mains, all four usbs used (usb3 main cam 183mm pro, usb3 guidecam, usb2 eqdir cable, usb2 WiFi extender), 12v out to azgti, 12v out to 183mm pro cooling. Cooling is set to -10 Deg C. Any suggestions?
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Equipment: EQ6R-Pro; Explore Scientific 80ED Triplet; ZWO ASI120MC guide camera; Canon 250D imaging camera; OVL field flattener. Software: NINA; PHD2 (multistar). I cannot solve this issue with the stars in my images. It started some weeks ago, and basically I am not able to image at all. Image 1 shows a 10sec exposure on the star Sirius, with the teardrop shaped stars around. Image 2 shows 120sec exposure on NGC7522, same night, same setup, again teardrop stars. On both images you can see the tracking is lower than 1, and on a windy night. Both images here show the exact same type of distortion to the stars. I did try a 240sec exposure and that was the same. Image 3 shows PHD2 on Sirius, changing any of the settings doesn't work. This was after a new calibration was carried out, which was very good (see image 4). Any ideas please? Tony
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Hi, does anyone know what these faint red blue and green 'L' shaped lines in the attached image are? And more importantly how to get rid of them. They are a uniform shape and size and all across the frame. I don't seem to get these lines on single images, at least I can't see them. I have tried stacking through both Deep Sky Stacker and Sequator, and even used a different laptop but with the same result. The pictures were taken on a Canon EOS 450D through a Skywatcher 200P mounted on a EQ5 Pro. The mirrors seem ok and I don't have any issues when visually observing. Any help and advise gratefully received. Thanks
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astrophotography Prime focus with skywatcher 130p
Pincs posted a topic in Getting Started With Imaging
Hi I'm thinking about buying a SKYWATCHER EXPLORER 130P SYNSCAN AZ GOTO TELESCOPE for astrophotography but I've heard that prime focus is not possible without modifications. Could I use an extention tube with my DSLR to fix this? Thanks. Pincs -
A couple of weeks from now the Moon is going to occult M105: And that got me thinking about what are some of the techniques that one could employ to image this phenomenon? Clearly a single camera can't handle the fact that the Moon is just going to drown everything out. But what about having a lunar rig (Mak + planetary camera) do the Moon imaging while a DSO rig (Refractor + cooled DSO camera) chips away at M105 as it clears the Moon? Could one then combine the two resulting images to [sort of] match reality? Would even the best lunar glow / light pollution filters be able to cope with imaging a mag. 9 galaxy like M105 so close to the Moon? Curious if anyone's tried anything like this before with and especially without success. -
Before I took the filter out Jupiter was a white blob but with no stars visible. Now the sky is full of hundreds of multicoloured dots that looks like noise of some kind - yet plate solving seems to recognise stars (which I cannot see on the screen) when it didn't before. Unfortunately Jupiter wasn't visible (hidden by cloud) so couldn't try that. I'm using Stellarmate OS on a RPi4 and EKOS for target tracking and T7c photography. a) Have I done good or messed it up the camera? b) Should I screw an IRbypass filter on the nose to help reduce these dots? c) Is it just the wrong camera settings? d) Can I expect better results using a SV305 Pro? Any help much appreciated. -
Anyone used the Optolong 2" LRGB filters for using with a mono camera? Thought as their L series filters are so good that the LRGB set would not have any issues, they're one of the cheapest set also. There's the Baader ones but I've read about the halos they create, the newer CCD ones released this year also seem to have the same issues. Looking for recommendations.
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Hi After a break of some years, and having sold my equipment, I am being drawn back into doing some deep sky imaging. The thing that stopped me before was the long cold nights with usb connections meaning I had to be near the scope. I have been looking at wifi control and the ASIAIR system looks really good but it is expensive (on top of re-equipping with scope and camera etc.) and nobody seems to have stock. So I am trying to find out about the Skywatcher synscan wifi adapter. However, I cannot see a way of connecting a guide camera without a usb cable to the laptop, which rather defeats the object. I do not really want to leave a laptop out and connect via TeamViewer. On the FLO site it says that the wifi adapter supports ASCOM guiding. How does the camera connect? Thanks in advance and apologies for the ramble! Barry
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Explore scientific firstlight 127mm x 1200mm achromat with basler aca1920-155um camera Identical processing, Identical amount of frames. +1 difference in gain setting on the triplet. triplet set focuser position to about 17mm. quadruplet set focuser position to about 32mm. The focal point of the quadruplet barlow is nearly double, which was not expected. I think i see finer surface detail on the triplet in the white mottle's, but sharper overall image detail on the quadruplet. This could be a moment of atmosphere affect of better seeing condition, or simply a fumble by my hand with focus on the triplet. 2" Celestron Luminos 2.5x Quadruplet FPS (avg.)=149 Shutter=6.629ms Gain=13 (36%) Gamma=140 1500 frames / -90% / stacked best 4% 1.25" Celestron Ultima SV 2x Triplet FPS (avg.)=149 Shutter=6.629ms Gain=14 (38%) Gamma=140 1500 frames / -90% / stacked best 4%-
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Hi, I have been getting a lot of questions regarding what components my "optical test rig" has, and how to clamp the camera/laser with. I found some new bits and pieces which makes it very simple to build your own rig -
I am in the process of setting up an astrophotography and imaging group just outside Filey in North Yorkshire. Having recently taken delivery of an observatory together with a fixed pier and currently awaiting a quote for the concrete plinth. I am hoping to break ground next month with the observatory being "functional" by the Summer. Please note this will NOT be a visual astronomy group as such and instead, will primarily be for astrophotography with the intent of learning and sharing techniques together. Lots of work ahead and this post is more of a "feeler" to discover nearby interest. I met a wonderful chap in Bridlington around 3 years ago having bought a dual saddle from him but sadly, cannot remember his name or exact location as a hard drive crash meant I lost all contact details. It is knowing someone like this relatively close by who could assist with the "little things" like EQMod, oversee the pier placement (before I cement the bolts in incorrectly), drift alignment .... ie someone who has already been through the initial stages. My end goal will be one of fully remoting the observatory and this may even progress to remote sessions over the internet. I do like a good challenge I will be charting progress in a blog on my homepage. Best wishes, Steve ps with huge thanks to York Astronomical Society for their help and advise getting me this far
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Just sending a query out there to anyone who has experience imaging at public sites on Dartmoor? Looking to learn about good locations, how this is received by the National Park authority (if imaging through the night) etc...
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This blog describes Installing 3rd Party Drivers into a Raspberry Pi having installed Ubuntu MATE and followed the instructions to run the AstroPi3 script to install INDI and other astro related software. SSH has been enabled so that now the RPi can be accessed remotely from Terminal. eg. ssh gina@rpi where gina is my user name and rpi is the computer name as set up during the Ubuntu MATE installation. This set up process is detailed in my blog :- Setting up a Raspberry Pi for Astro Imaging and Control - Updated Feb 2020 for RPi 3B & RPi 3B+
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From the album: Solar System Objects
There was a (near) total lunar eclipse last week and I happened to be lucky enough to be on the right side of the planet to see it in it's entirety.... These images were taken with a stock Canon 7D DSLR attached to my 14" Skywatcher GOTO Dobsonian and I had my 8" SCT setup to observe it along with the binoculars... what a fantastic night. I'll tell you that the eclipsed moon viewed through the C8 with the TV 31mm Nagler Type 5 eyepiece is a amazing sight... the full disc of the rusty moon, some stars sprinkled around it and witnessing a star being occulted by the red moon was something else.© Mariusz Goralski
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From the album: CCD venture
A h-alpha shot of the pelican nebula in Cygnus. 2 x panel mosaic. 10 min subs. 9 x 10m + 9x10m stacks stitched together in ms ICE. ED80 - ATK16HR - Ha clip filter - EQ6 - finderguider 9x50mm PhD2 - photoshop - DSS. -
From the album: The next step.
Was really chuffed to catch this comet, especially with the two tails. This i believe is the 5th comet i've caught 'on film' as it were. Along with Panstarrs - ISON - Jacques, and Lovejoy (forgot the numerical names). Equipment: ED80 - / 350D -/ EQ6 -/ CLS clip -
From the album: astrography_MC's Creations
Equipments Used: Explore Scientific ED 127 mm APO Triplet Sony a6400 SVBony UV/IR CUT filter, Optolong CLS filter ZWO ASI 290 MM Guidecam 30x240” for UV/Ircut 15x240" for CLS ( total 3 hrs of integration time ) 30 Darks 25 Flats Bortle 4 Zone© astrography_MC
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From the album: 2013/2014 planetary
First light with the ZWO ASI120MC planetary camera. -
The noctilucent cloud is in the upper right of the image, hovering over some beautiful pink and purple-tinged lower level clouds just after sunset during last year's autumnal equinox. A single 1/1250s exposure at f/5, 155mm, shot with a Nikon D50. No processing. One of the most beautiful sunsets I have ever seen! Reggie -
Hi - I just wanna share my latest build - based on Starlight Express optical rig in which they align their camerachip / housings before the ship them out - And i was inspired to build my own. I am very keen to be able to do so much adjustments and tuning to my gear during the day as possible - and this is another method of doing just that, and in this case the aligning of camera tilt which can be a royal PITA during the dark and -20 degree C. So, here is the SX article on what i was going to build: SX Article Note: I haven't reciieved my new camera yet so the video does not contain the actual adjustment, but as soon as i get my new camera - I will show just how it works! /Daniel
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should I modify a logitech Webcam for planetary imaging or get that svbony 105 planetary camera. I don't know the image quality svbony camera . If the Svbony camera is better than a modified Webcam please tell me -
I went out this evening to image Venus, I'm just after starting planetary imaging and I want to get as much Venus images as I can before it gets too low in the sky. I recorded a 1500 frame video of Venus and I stacked and processed the image in Registax 6.1. I was surprised by my image and I'm glad it turned out alright, definitely my best Venus image so far. Tell me what you think! I would love to hear your opinions, and most importantly how I can improve. Thanks and clear skies! Adam
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Hi I feel as though I see a steady stream of images along the lines of “I just held my phone up to the eyepiece”. Now either I’m absolutely missing something (which is definitely possible) or there is considerably more luck/effort in those images than inferred. I have an iPhone, and seem to have two significant problems using it to grab any kind of useful image. And no, I’m not expecting it to rival a dedicated imaging rig. Firstly, alignment is very difficult. And secondly, focus seems to be impossible. I have one of the Celestron NexYZ phone mounts, which is less steady than I expected but I can eventually get the camera aligned with the eyepiece. But I’ve never managed to get focus. I’ve tried the default camera app as well a dedicated one with more manual control. I’m failing. Overall this is not a significant impediment to my observing. But it would be great to be able to get some reference shots to go with my observing notes. Does anyone have any tips?
