RolandKol

I am sure, you will be very happy with ASI1600 as it has quite good sensor (much better than DSLR) and a very small (if not the smallest in the market) Back Focus and it will enable you to use 31mm filters without any frustration. I went the same, ASI1600MM way, with my 130PDS, - had some problems with focuser's tilt, but sorted it out with DIY autofocuser and tightening draw-tube quite strongly. Just to make your life a bit more difficult, - a main competitor of ASI1600 is Altair Hypercam 1600M PRO TEC, which has the same sensor, but larger - 4GB ram (not sure if there is any use of it), keep in mind, - it has 17.5mm back focus, which will probably still be OK with 31mm filters at F5. P.S. I am not sure if Hypercam has it's own matching EFW and etc.

Had the same problem, - in my case, Cura Combing sub option "minimal travel without retraction" value had to be incresead from 0 to around 5mm to solve.

Thanks for update! was not in a hurry anyway!

you can also try a trick with Ha filter data, which will have the smallest stars from all others. You will most likely take some Ha subs for galaxy anyway, - but once you post-process, after you combined all to HaLRGB (or HaRGB), - you can try to apply H as luminescence again, it should reduce stars also, but you may end up with other problems.

After this summer, I switched to PETG completely, as most of my PLA "Astro Toys" (white/red colour) got deformed due to the heat or UV, - I kept them outside on my rig under the cover (not in the shed or similar astro hideout)... reprinting...

I am almost sure, if he would start investigating materials for his future projects, - he will most likely end up with community advise towards PETG or ABS.... most likely PETG...

At first, decide which material you will wish to be able to print, most of the printers are able to print ABS and PETG (which is more than enough for Astro "toys", please correct me if I am wrong) and you can get them much cheaper, for example, - Creality Ender 3 or Anycubic Mega-S, - price £200ish. However, if you will decide to print Polycarbonate or Nylon and do not like to mod cheap stuff and play with it a bit to make it work, Prusa should work with these materials out of the box,

If I recall correctly (last checked around 1 year ago) you can run 2 autofocusers with the different settings simultaneously, - maybe the updated app allows more... Please doublecheck. I would strongly advise to use as correct step size as possible, - unless you will focus your scopes manually, but it almost eliminates the Beauty of Auto focus, which can to corrections/focus offsets due to the temperature change or filter change and etc. For Auto Focus to work properly, - you will want to have all settings as precise as possible... I am almost sure, even so, this option will not start working fluently from the first time without an additional tinkering... And for 4 scopes.... It may take quite a few nights.... Once you will start setting up auto focus routine, - you will see, you will want to be sure what distance 10 or 100 steps move your focuser. For example, if your focus needs to get 50 microns correction to get back in focus, - your actual motor 1 step is 5 microns, but app thinks it is 50, - app will order motor to make 1 step only instead of 10. Your battle is not yet finished!

I am happy to hear, you have sorted it out. P.S. The step size field is in microns, Once motor is connected to your focuser, you have to make measurements, to know your value. How-to is in the manual and also on YouTube

Hmm, Maybe my app is a bit older also, as my Extra Settings option is visible only from Drop Down menu called Settings

Just unplug everything, and use app alone. It will remember extra settings once you plug all in.

Extra settings work once motor is disconnected

P.S. just checked my app settings. not sure which settings you been talking about... the below, are mine for PG27 P.S. not sure what may cause unresponsive speed setting... It should work if all correctly set up

why don't you adjust step size properly on the controller? 50 vs 5000 is a huge difference....

your resistance measurements are equal to the datasheet. as you noticed, - your wiring is not yet correct, so spend some time to connect coils properly and I am sure you will be happy with the speed and holding torque. keep in mind, once you will be adjusting current on the driver, - do not give too much, go with minimal current which allows motor to move properly, - otherwise motor will start heating very fast... same with drivers, - they tend to heat a lot also. Overheated driver will send incorrect signals and motor will start skipping steps.

my experience, was hit and miss with PG27 wiring, even official scheme from supplier was wrong, - as Upahill mentioned, I was made to check resistance per each coil to find the pairs and experiment, to get them right.

Just some thoughts/comments which may be completely irrelevant. Presumably if all wiring was done correctly, usually, it is caused by the incorrect current value on the driver, or maybe you were on 1/32+ steps mode. For steps modes 1/16 and higher, you will also need a TL Smoother module, - I have installed it to check how it works on 1/64, - and all works fine, but in this case, yes, it is ACTUALLY VERY SLOW, - steps are almost in nanometer values!!!!

in worst case scenario, if you will fail to get the metal one - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1406126 Or, you can buy PC sheet sample from ebay and cut it to fit Nema17 bracket. Not sure about PC sheet thickness needed, probably around 10-11mm https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-3-4-5-6-8-10mm-Clear-Polycarbonate-Lexan-Makrolon-Palsun-Sheet-Cut-To-Size/303204464096?hash=item469864f5e0:m:mQ9df_e9GkOxFQvQ8wHduNg https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mounting-Bracket-for-Nema-17-Stepper-Motor-Geared-Stepper-CNC-Hobby-3D-Printer/392165008194?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

For a fast system, I would choose cam with the smaller pixels, like 183 QHY/ZWO, - to get as much details as possible, but not sure about your targets on FOV.... but with 14mm, - it probably is not so essential.

Hmmm, how do you balance your frac with such a motor placing? PG27 is quite heavy, something around 400g as I recall... Plus I do see your guider/finder scope shoe on the same side... (I am with Newt at the moment, just thinking about future options and etc.)

What about microwave? The silica gel desiccant, l use for my 3D printer filament, is very nicely dehydrated in it.

My prey from this week starhunt The goal was to get through the dark clouds Failed, - but I like it anyway so I decided to share Gain 200 - 120s each, around 11.5H in total: ASI1600MM-Pro and Baader NB - London.

Hi hi, I actually use Nema 17 PG27 on the myFocuserPro2 focuser (on F5 newtonian+ASI1600+EFW) and yes, - with direct coupling. What can I say... 100% OVERKILL. PG5 probably is a sweet spot for heavy rigs and etc... I chose PG27, as I was afraid and could not find info which motor will fit my rig, plus, I will probably use it for my future F2 system and it will fit perfectly. Anyway, it does it's job perfectly! Slow? - I would disagree. Mine is on full steps and performs as expected.

Hi Aidan? Have you managed to deal with it? I am thinking about the same quad as a next possible scope and I also have the same ASI/EFW, - so a bit curious...

What about resign? Which one can be used outside properly? As far as l read, it is very UV sensitive