RolandKol

SW 8" Quatro CF was almost the same price!!! Insane!

It does not work perfectly on my NEQ6 I guess, it more depends on the skills/experience, Light Pollution, Weather permission to experiment and if you have a minimalistic equipment, like small guiding scope, small cameras and etc, matching mount loading limits and the Light Pollution in your area... And with a better mount, you will have better chances to set everything up faster.

Yep.. Samyang is twice expensive, but it is also better in all parameters you choose to check. Plus, universal and easy to sell if needed... But it is really strange... I cannot find any secondhand ones during last 5 or 6 months.... P.S. I bought Evo as a guider and planned to try using it with my Canon... I thought it will serve me as "2 in 1" But later, I saw some pic examples ... and my experiment was written off... unfortunately

Yep.. 50ED accepts only 1.25, however, prices usually go up by quality and by diameter also... in this particular case, it is the smallest peace of glass for the price of the diamond In this case, I will keep my money for Samyang 135 larger FOV and aperture, faster and already tested

That flattener is only 1.25".... and the price!!! Almost the same as the Scope... Daylight Robbery... One day, I will try sticking In my SW Coma corrector into it... Just for experiment....

Here is my second try on the Flaming Star Nebula. SHO, - only 12x300s each, Baader NB (7<>8.5nm) + ASI1600MM-Pro. Planing to add a bit more Ha and SII, not sure about OIII as images showed almost no dust... Should I try adding OIII anyway?

I am Not very sure about differences in focus within 5C and even 10C.... I used SGP for a while (been testing it), and always used Image History, which gave image quality statistics like FHM and etc. I tried to collect data for my future DIY autofocuser, so I will be able to automate the re-focus routine in relation to temp change... And I have not noticed any radical change in the image quality during all nights.... and temp drop was around 10c. The main problem I have, - focus shift while locking it... I Hate it sooo much as it makes focusing a guesswork... (offsetting focus, locking, Fail, un-lock (focus runs away somewhere unpredictably), re-focus with offset again, locking, focus shifts to opposite side than expected.... .... ... It takes ages...). If someone has focus shift due to the temp, it will happen with CF body also. Less, but I am sure it will, - and that focusing headache will remain... My inner "Scrooge McDuck" simply does not allow me to go and buy a better focuser which will cost more than OTA itself! Insane!... So started DIY autofocuser project... (burned few parts, waiting for new... hope to get them soon). In this case, I totally agree with Neil. I will make the collimation smoother (ordered bolts like BobKnobs for the secondary from China, coming in a week or so) not sure if I need springs, I simply tighten the primary bolts quite strongly and my setup is permanent most of the time. Will deal with focuser's shift/locking problem using DIY autofocuser with a strong stepper motor, - which is around 4 times cheaper than a Moonlite! As I have lots of trees around in the garden.... unfortunately, I need to clean my Primary already (scope is 1 year old...) I will use the cleaning day for Flocking. Not sure if flocking the focuser's drawtube will cause any optical problems, but I will flock it also....

Have you tried "PixInsight LE", the Old and Free Pixinsight version? It has quite a powerful gradient removal tool.

Haha never paid attention to it! My SW CC also has it thanks!

Nice Duplet! Don't you afraid camera to fall off in such a position? I want to place my ASI1600 like this to make a better balance.... but I AFRAID!

Just FYI, there are free alternatives for Team Viewer, I prefer VNC Viewer/Server.

I hope the notification about "U" word has not woken the admin up P.S. why is it censored? P.P.S. I need a much larger screen at home... as I have not noticed such an amount of Noise on my notebook... what shame!

Another test image The Flaming Star > 12x300s SHO (each channel) (UFO left it's track... like always...)

"A spokesman said: "In search of the next Brian Cox!" later in the article... "It is a two year contract with a salary of up to £23,111" ..... I wish them best of luck....

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Thanks @lnlarxg It is ASI1600MM-Pro with Baader 7/8/8.5 NM filter set, all on 130PDS with Skywatchers Coma Corrector which works as 0.9 Focal reducer, so I am imaging at F4.5 P.S. I was also quite surprised I have managed to get quite a descent amount of nebulosity with such a small amount of subs. I have started quite recently and still testing the options. Currently all my images are at Unity gain and 300s ... I think of increasing the Gain and shortening exposures accordingly as I have a very limited view from my back garden,

And my third test target from yesterday also only 6x300s SHO

My second and new target for a while... Started it yesterday, but clouds came and stopped above me.... fell a sleep while waiting... SHO only 6x300s each ( I will deal with amp glow later, - just checking if the target is worth to continue I think it does )

My last session result... (Still work in progress) SHO from Woolwich, London [22/27-10-2018] 33x300s each filter. ASI1600MM-Pro + 130PDS

It is Skywatcher's one, which works as a 0.9 reducer... And due to that, I was made to "circumcise" by 1cm my focuser's drawtube, - it protruded too deep into the scope and casted nasty shadow on the primary mirror, which caused brighter starst to look like letter D. P.S. 1 cm is probably not enough... I still do not like brighter stars on other images. P.P.S. Thanks!

Just a quick stretch to check what's inside.... (12x300s HSO with Baader 7nm and ASI1600MM-Pro) Clouds interrupted the session, - looks promising Work in progress

Your observations are totally correct... HEQ5 is considered as the Minimal requirement, due to Scope and Imaging set up weight and guiding capabilities... (130PDS 4kg, plus imaging cam, plus guiding scope, plus guiding cam, plus cables and you are above 5kg). P.S. There is a difference between 130P and 130PDS, be careful.

Yep... Initially, you have to twist and turn it a lot to get in focus as it moves in a very small steps. but once done... Lock the focus and forget for ages... I did focus on the distant tree during a daytime initially and later fine focused at night, - do not remember how long time ago... Back in February probably...

Nice topic... I always wanted to try attaching it to my Canon 1300D... Most of the websites have description line like this: "It can also be used as a finderscope, small lens for your camera or just as a small richfield telescope for travelling!" Does not look like it can be "small lens for your camera" at all Unless it's a small chip size one ... like ZWO 224 or similar.

Very nice! I sleep and dream of something similar! P.S. You forgot the pilar... Will you bolt it in?