newbie alert

Both of them are fantastic Rodd... prefer the smaller star in the kaf image and looks slightly more contrasty.. but not a lot in it..

Sorry I missed that you was using a st4, so calibrate on every target.. Have you tried the drift tool? I also use sharpcap if I've either not got much time or the clouds are looming and there's only a couple of hours to collect data.. but, if you have enough time it's worth doing..can get those rms figures down a fair bit further, every little helps as they say

Few things to try first before adjusting anything... Are you pretty well balanced? How are you polar aligning? Where did you calibrate? Did you run the guiding assistant

I've found the more accurate you star align the better your goto's will be.. cone error is a prob if you're viewing the other side of the meridian which can be manually sorted out

I've seen this just last week with someone using a redcat with a duallband filter, i know its a petzval design..not sure if that's anything like a quad

Focal ratio is governed by focal length divided by aperture end of.. so that's why f5 scopes don't have the same fov if either the fl or the aperture is different.. focal length gives you big the target will be, the aperture gives you the brightness as more photons are captured, if your imaging circle is bigger it can illuminate a bigger sensor.. Thought it was about microlensing anyway

Still quoting in f ratio, f8 is the focal ratio..you said f8 focal length?? And the add a Barlow to make it f15 focal length??? Full frame sensor will have a wider fov than a 1600 Your c11 edge will have a reducer to make it f7? I personally feel if you scope has a bigger imaging circle the bigger the pixels you can use..

I see that as a halo, not microlensing.. Are you using more than 1 filter ie a light pollution filter, is your filter as close to the sensor as it can be?

I don't see f ratio as fast or slow, I see it as wider fov But since you ask , yes a f5 frac was the last one I see

First thing I do is zoom in..never seen blocky stars at my own 3.0 pp.. but then again I'm never going to get it printed A4/3 size..

Great job lee,enjoy the camera and keep those images coming

Yes I agree with you Olly, I'm continuing to hear that you can't undersample as you get blocky stars..when I show them your image of the witches head at 3.5 pp it all goes strangely quiet.. Then they say it again a few weeks later!!

Yes I agree with you Olly, I'm continuing to hear that you can't undersample as you get blocky stars..when I show them your image of the witches head at 3.5 pp it all goes strangely quiet.. Then they say it again a few weeks later!!

Good ol windows.. Glad you got it connected but when imaging turn off the internet connection to the internet as you say I'm sure they watch you and then try to mess up your eve with a update

Not sure that's the way, I've seen plenty of images with small aperture and focal length scopes with micro lensing effect..

Has to be the worm ..

You could send it to me for a few months of thorough testing....!!

What camera is it, obviously a atik? Driver issues..Windows is fantastic for that..

Cool..thanks for sharing

It won't agree with the ASPA, it won't agree with sharpcap or polemaster either, they all disagree with each other..just have to work out which one agrees with what you're doing..

If it's in a observatory on a fixed pier just spend abit of time drift aligning in phd..once done you won't need to redo for a long time.. Depending on your image scale dictates what you should be looking for in terms of rms figures

Probably the nest one ive seen, luv the 100% close up..stunning

Dark art or magic bullet is a great book for processing eh Mr wolf??

Had a bit more search time and it seems that there wouldn't be a problem with it either way around other than if there was light leakage into the filter wheel and it might cause reflective issues..which isn't the cause in this case

Stunning..