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dazza1639

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About dazza1639

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    Sub Dwarf

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  • Location
    Manchester
  1. Looks good, like others have said, it really should have had a 7 position filter wheel. I have the AtikOne 6.0 and my only bugbear is the five position wheel meaning that I need to swap pot my blue & green filters for OIII & SII when doing narrowband, the Lum, Red & Halpha filters stay where the are.
  2. That's much better than the original, which was still really good.
  3. the scope room could do with being 500mm bigger, but I couldn't do it and maintain the angle to Polaris which lies directly over the warm room.
  4. Sorry to revive an old thread, but I was recently sorting out my old photos and came across the ones from my 2011 observatory build. I decided to create a bit of a slideshow, YouTube video. You can check it out at https://youtu.be/KQN69-L-tc8. I am also thinking of doing a bit of an update video showing how the observatory has developed over the years to its current state. I wondered if anyone thought that this would be of interest. Darren
  5. Interesting thanks for the replies. I have been impressed with a lot of the images that have been produced with this camera. I would highly recommend watching the YouTube videos posted by AstroBackyard who has produced some stunning results. The main thing for me is to have something that I can process at the end of the night, which at the moment I don’t get this unless I want to create mono images.
  6. I currently do most of my imaging with my AtikOne 6.0, I have a full LRGB filter set and Ha,OIII & SII filters. with the really poor weather we have had over the last couple of years and work commitments I am finding harder and harder to get to a point where I have enough data in the relevant filters, to compose final or even partly completed images. I have lots of part finished projects where I have the luminescence but not a complete set of RGB, or projects where I have managed to get the Ha but not the OIII & SII. It is so disheartening and frustrating. To this end I am thinking of adding an ASI294MC Pro one shot colour camera to my setup and perhaps a dual ban filter. My thinking is that with the larger sensor size and the ability to gather the colour data in one go, I would be able to more quickly get the data to add to my Luminescence and narrow band images to start to get some more finished images, albeit with reduced sensitivity and detail that could be achieved with my mono setup. I have tweeted about this at https://twitter.com/dazza1639/status/1183739265970331648. I would really appreciate some feedback on this idea. Any additional follows, retweets or comments on twitter would also be appreciated. Thanks Darren
  7. You’re very welcome. Glad it works for you
  8. I'm quite lucky my warm room is only 1.5m from the mount in the observatory so I can clearly see the desktop screen from the mount. I run Kstars on the windows pc with everything connected to the RPi on the mount. But I have used real VNC on my iPad to both monitor what is going on, on the RPi desktop and the PC desktop its free and really straight forward to connect too using the different IP addresses. I have found that running TightVNC server on the windows PC is better than the offering from RealVNC, and TightVNC is free, RealVNC's viewer is still the best I've used.
  9. do you have an ipad, if so use realvnc viewer on that and remote into your RPi, you can then make the adjustments at the scope using the ipad screen.
  10. It would be good if you could use it with an indi server. I have all my gear connected to a RPi, and connect to the remote indi server running on there with KStars on my windows machine. It would be nice to do somthing similar with NINA, as it looks great and a bit slicker than KStars.
  11. I use a spark plug socket it fits perfectly and the additional depth of the spark plug socket spreads the torque over a larger area reducing the chance of slipping or damage
  12. The consensus seems to be that less than 5 minutes is good enough for guiding. I can't reccomend enough the polar alignment routine in Ekos, it is really simple, I ran the process 3 times in about 1/2 an hour. I could never get drift aligning with PHD to agree with the handset when I used to use the Nexstar polar alignment routine.
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