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Xplode last won the day on February 23 2020

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About Xplode

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  1. Sorry for late reply, didn't see your post till now. The OAG is there just as a M68 adapter, it was the only available solution to connect M68 adapters at the time the camera was bought. Today the M68 Tilt plate is an option, but in my opinion the ZWO tilt plate isn't very good, it's hard to adjust it very accurately Adapters used were a Baader M72-M68 and of course some M68 extensions. There's also a stepdown adapter from the 67-FL flattener to M72, you most likely have this already since it's an original Tak adapter..
  2. I'd advice you to use Sharpcap instead, it's a much better software and you will find more info about how to use it. In Sharpcap you should use the .ser format for planetary videos, .avi is very outdated while .ser is made just for planetary imaging. For stacking Autostakkert is the best choice, but for editing Registax is still a good choice.
  3. There is a difference, but how much depends on the situation. Remember pushing air directs it pretty well, but pulling air through a heatsink it will just pull where it's least resistance. You can see a test done on a graphics card there https://youtu.be/IJmE13sG9PI?t=719 In general it's best to have the fan push onto the heatsink rather than pull.
  4. I'd rather say blowing air onto the heatsink
  5. It's usually best to blow the cold air at the object that needs to be cooled, this is how, this is how 99% of all computers are setup
  6. For visual there might not be that much of a difference, but for imaging it's a different story. Remember the old focal reducer is also a coma corrector, the EdgeHD design doesn't have coma so it will correct for something that's not there so most likely it will introduce coma or some other abberation.
  7. I wouldn't trust the numbers given by any manufaturere to be 100% correct, FL varies a little, flattener-sensor spacing changes a little etc. FL often seems to be just a nice "round" number, due to manufacturing differences it will of course vary a little, especially for mirrors. For spacing i found it's best to always plan for having to adjust at least +/- 1mm from the manufacturers given specs. Adapters/spacers should ALWAYS be measured without the male threads. The correct spacing should not be judged by focal length or anything else than how the stars look.
  8. Olly has suggested 28-30 before so maybe his vision has changed In my opinion 20 is certainly too dark on a calibrated monitor. I might also mention that high gain is ok for luminance too, ive taken 60-300s exposureswith both slow and medium fast scopes. I haven't found a reason to use low gain on the asi6200
  9. I think so, there's also other galaxies that can be seen through the outer areas of M31. Thank you! We will try to keep the colors for the next version after i gather new GB + Ha data for the next version (R is already done)
  10. Great resolution as always with this camera! When in your processing do you scale it down? I've found it's best to do after all other processing. In my opinion your backgound is a little too dark, the value is around 20 for your image, a value of around 30 would look a lot better! Background value in your image After changing the background value Before and after changing the background value, looks a lot better! (
  11. I've imaged M31 every fall getting better and better images and i'm done quite done yet it seems! This is a mix of older CCD data from 2018 and newer CMOS data which are much higher resolution and goes deeper so it's easier to see all the far away tiny galaxies and the more individual stars in M31 Data from 2018 Moravian G3-16200 through a Takahashi FSQ130-ED with a 645 0.7x focal reducer (f/3.5) 22x300s R14x300s B20x300s G22x600s Ha Data from 2020 ASI6200MM Pro through a Takahashi FSQ130-ED 427x60s L In total 15.6 hours HaLRGB Thanks to Tommy Linnerud for a
  12. Everything has been sold. I'm not able to edit the topic with SOLD
  13. Depends on the weight of the stones
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