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Xplode last won the day on April 12 2015

Xplode had the most liked content!

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About Xplode

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    Proto Star

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    Astrophotography, DIY
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  1. It's been a while since i posted anything here, i'm starting with this one and hoping there will be more images ready for posting soon! Taken with a Moravian G3-16200 through a Takahashi FSQ130-ED with a 645 0.7x focal reducer (f/3.5) on a10 Micron GM2000 mount from a remote observatory in Norway. 16x600s L 22x300s R 14x300s B 20x300s G 22x600s Ha Sensortemp -30C Total 11 hours. The odd number of frames per channel comes from a lot of data being thrown away due to clouds. All data is gathered by me from Askvang Observatory over 6 nights in october and processed by Ola Skarpen. Thanks to Tommy Linnerud for allowing me to use his remote observatory and Ola skarpen for the processing.
  2. How long was the exposure? Seems just like the scope was bumped or something during the exposure. The split top spike is your spider not being perfectly adjusted as a cross
  3. It's finally time to get a good finished image from the observatory i share with 2 friends down in Spain, i think this is it! Here's what we have worked on for a while and the processing was done over the last week by Ola Skarpen. 110x600s Ha, 16 hours 134x300s RGB, 11 hours Gear used: 10 Micron GM2000 HPS II TS 130mm f/6.6 with 0.75x Riccardi reducer. Moravian G3-16200 with 50mm Astrodon filters, 3nm Ha filter. Captured by SkyEyE Observatory (Extremadura, Spain), processed by Ola Skarpen
  4. Very nice solution, lets hope it will work when it gets colder too
  5. A coma corrector makes more difference than you think. There is no way to get back the sharpness lost without a coma corrector by using software. Usually the middle of the field gets a little sharper too. It also removes problems you might get by aligning images from several nights since stars won't be round and they will have different shapes unless the FOV is pretty much excactly the same.
  6. Pretty good I don't think you should worry too much about noise, it usually looks better with a little noise than an overdone noise removal. I see your colors aren't aligned perfectly and it lowers the detail a lot, during staralignment you might want to enable distortion correction and registration model>2d surface splines, it should align your subs better
  7. Much better Now it's just about fine tuning tracking and getting lots of subs! If you want to get to the next level for the quality of your subs you need a coma corrector, i can recommend the Baader MPCC III as it doesn't suffer from the reflection problems of other coma correctors. I believe you can do even shorter exposures too, maybe 60s? There is an article about gain on your camera here: https://astronomy-imaging-camera.com/cooled-cameras/cooled-asi-camera-setting-in-ascom-driver/
  8. I agree with this, i found darks a total waste of time when i used a DSLR. Instead i used dithering as that will help remove fixed pattern noise like hot pixels when enough exposures are stacked, it starts to do it's thing at 10+ exposures with at least 3 dithers. The more dithers the better, but dithering can also take away a little more valuable time than wanted so dithering once every 3-5 subs is often best.
  9. A f10 scope is 4x slower than a f5 + you use an old noisy camera so yeah i understand why you need so long exposures. Even with a noisy camera and slow optics you seem to get good results with your setup
  10. That looks much better! Improving tracking or finding an exposure time that works for your setup without getting elongated stars will help a lot, also MORE exposure time 2-3 hours of subs at 1x1 with round stars will get your very good results. I have attached a 300s sub og M51 Ha from my setup, i have a faster scope, but a noisier CCD camera. M51_Light_Ha_300sec_2017-03-23_frame5.fit His setup doesn't need that long subs with a fast newton and a CMOS sensor with low noise, especially not for a galaxy that has just bright blobs of Ha we're after. CMOS sensors doesn't need as long exposures as CCD sensors becuause of the much lower read noise for CMOS.
  11. Drizzling on images that aren't dithered is pointless, the same goes for images with elongeted stars. You really need a lot of sharp dithered images to get anything out of it, 30+ is my sduggestion. Remember drizzling is for getting out details past the resolution of what your system can capture with good tracking, if your stars aren't sharp and round you will only get the negative effects that comes with this method. When your tracking isn't accurate that lowers SNR a lot and makes the longer subs pointless, it's better with 2-3 shorter subs in the same time so you capture details, that also helps stack out noise. You should look into taking better flats because they aren't doing what they are supposed to, the bright spots in the single image is even worse in the stacked imaged. For your current data i suggest you stack it at the resolution of the 2x2 subs and no drizzle, also try stacking without the flats to see if it looks better or worse. I bet this will give you a much better result
  12. I haven't used this camera so i'm not familiar with the noise on it, but from looking at the 600s sub i doesn't seem unusually noisy, but the signal is very low when i compare to my own images. Did you use any darks, flats or bias when stacking? I can see that your stars are elongated, if you can't get round stars you need to use a lower exposure time to keep the detail in the image, cutting exposure time in 1/2 or 1/4 shouldn't be a problem with your camera. Elongated stars means the signal gets smeared out. How often do you dither? You should have 30+ subs and dither often for good results, with the number of images you got you're better of not using drizzle as it lowers SNR. Do you use a coma corrector? I would try to cool it more if i were you, delta T is 40-45C on these cameras so -20C should be no problem.
  13. Don't buy the cheapest crappy filament you can buy, it will only cause you trouble! I can recommend eSun PLA+, it's stronger than normal PLA and can take more bending beforte it breakes. Quality is great at ok prices. Or you could go one step further and go for PETG filament if your printer can handle the temperatures needed, i've used PETG for months now and are very happy with it
  14. I guess you need a 0.965" to T2 adapter
  15. Very nice Jannis! The sharpness is very good, unusually good for data captured from Norway so you got this during nice conditions I also had nice conditions yesterday so it got some Ha on M51, haven't worked any on the data yet thou
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