alacant

Hi. OK with the 700 here, but not as good as the 450. The smaller the pixels, the worse for astro? Dunno: 450d: 12mp 5.2µm 700d: 18mp 4.2µm 750d: 24mp 3.7µm But hey, maybe numbers on a 'phone don't help the OP much. All of them will give an image. Get the one with the biggest pixels? Cheers and clear skies.

Hi. Not really an advantage; even with the flip screen, it's a lot easier to view Images and control the camera via your 'phone. HTH

Hi. We use both an eos450d and eos700d. My preference is for the former. The latter seems less sensitive, maybe because it has smaller pixels. You can pick up a faulty one of either -it doesn't need autofocus nor any of the automatic exposure modes- cheaply. Both are economical to modify at a later date should you feel the need. HTH

Hi. I'd recommend one of these. Then you can go all night. HTH

Hi If it's for a reflector, use the top rail to stabilise the tube. Then stick the hub with velco. HTH

Then you'll love StarTools. Moving from pixinsight to StarTools is easy using this table. HTH

Hi Yes, sure you can. Choose something as far away from the moon as possible. For tonight, how about m39? With your eos, take the ISO down to 400 and see how 90 second frames look, but beware; 430mm over aps-c is gonna give you a sizable moon gradient to have to wipe away. Cheers and HTH.

Hi Does the mount slew using the NSEW buttons in eqmod?

Hi Not ideal if you had cloud and the full moon but hey, it's looking doable. The bayer pattern is stored in the fits file along with the data but maybe your software doesn't look at it? Anyway, whatever setting you had worked so do some flat frames, lose the gradient and you should be onto a winner.

Try connecting pc direct via the handset: https://images.app.goo.gl/NyXgLDaGPrqHA5cG6

Look for which serial port had been assigned to the cable. Control panel - devices Try 9600 baud.

** sorry. I think it's this cable: https://es.aliexpress.com/item/32995620143.html (I've an eq6 which uses a D to usb)

Check. In this order: Correct mount to computer using the correct cable. It's not a regular serial cable. Mount powered on Mount connected via eqascom PHD2 profile with ascom EQ5,/6 selected as the mount. Any good?

Hi. Install ascom and eqascom; you need this serial cable. The mount will then appear as eq5/6 in PHD2. HTH

Hi Get a refund. But first... ...go along to an astro club gathering and have a look through some telescopes. I was very disappointed at what I saw through any telescope, including one that was 300mm diameter; my binoculars gave clearer views. Unfortunately during a visit I made, one couple was into astronomical photography and -far worse- showed me a sample of the images they produced. I'm surprised fellow forumeers haven't yet warned you about what that means! Cheers, clear skies and good luck with whatever you decide to do.

LOL, yeah. They'd have to be with me in charge! But TBH, without the wide dovetail plate, aluminium box section and OAG, it's just like any other mass produced Chinese stuff. Out of the box with a guidescope, I doubt you'd get stars like that. Cheers and clear skies

Good question. Usually I think, yes. They are closer to the problems beginners face and explain them in terms that they can understand; no acronyms, no jargon, no get-another-camera etc. Cheers

Hi I did once place a post in imaging: deep sky but the help here is better and far less likely to descend into a discussion on which telescope, mount or camera to buy next! Cheers and clear skies

Hi evryone We've a cute little 6" for the weekend. Not much to look at but with a collimation tweak and a bit of anti tube flex ointment, it's looking good. Not sure about the stars. Once again the blue stars just aren't there. Can't believe there aren't any! Cheers and thanks for looking, eos700d 1 1/2 hours @ ISO800

Hi I think it more accurate to use a Cheshire sight tube with cross hairs (CST) for (all of the) collimation, but essential for the position of the secondary. Once the latter is in place, leave it. You can then use your laser to tweak the primary mirror, although even then it's just as quick with the CST. FWIW, for our 8" f3.9, the CST is the only economical only way we've found to get consistency corner to corner over aps-c As always, never forget the collimation misunderstandings. Cheers and HTH

Hi How about correcting the coma in software? Anything which allows you to make masks will do and most astro processing software will have their own one-click version. That way, you avoid having to pass the light through glass, which always seems to introduce more aberrations. Cheers and HTH

Hi It's been a while (I switched the other way) but IIRC there's a shutter release option in (one of) the custom menu(s). Otherwise, yeah. Just get the histogram somewhere central by fiddling with the shutter speed in M. HTH

Excellent shot. A few more of those and you're onto a winner🙂 Cheers

Hi everyone In praise of the humble Newtonian Telescope without which we'd still be on night three of the same 100 exposure target! A decent frame filling experience for a change. We managed five targets over the weekend. Perfection, no. Fun, yes;) The usual doubts over colour, but at least with galaxies you stand a chance; there's a refreshing lack of false colour efforts. We saw some red, yellow and blue so we unashamedly copied attempted to match. But do tell us otherwise... Thanks for looking and wishing you clear skies. canon eos700d: 2-1/2 hours @ ISO800

Hi. Sure. Put an eyepiece 0.5x reducer on the sensor end of the 174. You'll need to stick it well into the camera but try it first on the existing thread. You may just be lucky. Otherwise you'll need your local model steam engine engineer to turn it down for you. After which don't forget to half the focal length on any guide app you may use. HTH