alacant

Hi. No. You either guide or image. Maybe use the t7 for guiding and e.g. a DSLR for imaging? Or use a tracking mount and take video using the t7. Not sure what type of images you want but HTH anyway.

Hi That slides directly into the focuser; tighten the two screws onto it as best you can. Screw 2" filters to the front of the coma corrector or use a clip filter for your dslr. I don't know of a way of getting a 1.25" filter into that light path. HTH

Hi How about M45 and m15 with your 32mm eyepiece? The first is easy and by the time you've found the second, m42 will have risen. Plan? Cheers and good luck.

Hi There's loadsa detail in the iris too. Not even 2 hours? Amazing...

Hi Lovely image. I'm guessing that there's a Baader cc before the sensor; astigmatism and fat stars. If it's not a Baader, then the seeing? Cheers and clear skies.

Hi That's more like it. Now simply take your choice of any aforementioned telescope and we promise not to advise otherwise! Cheers and clear skies.

Hi. So you can see nothing when looking through the telescope? It's black? No light when you move around the telescope? Or is there something, but out of focus? My guess is that you haven't used the diagonal: Point it at something distant during the day. A pylon, tree or distant roof tops. Now insert the diagonal. Next an eyepiece into the diagonal. Turn the focus knob fully clockwise. Next, looking through the eyepiece, begin to turn the focus knob counter-clockwise. There will be a point at which the object snaps into focus. You'll need to turn the focus knob maybe up to 40 times fully in to fully out. If not, send us a photo of the best image you can get; just hold your 'phone up to the eyepiece. HTH.

Hi. In that case, you also need to look at this thread. HTH.

I think the 130pds thread speaks for itself. As @happy-katmentions, we don't know what mount you have, but if you want astro-photography and have a relatively easy time of it, have a look at this. Astro-photography did you say? Someone has to be first! But seriously... good luck and clear skies.

Hi. Where?

Hi. As soon as you remove the mirror, it will be obvious what you need, what you need to do and which size bolts you need. It's easy, but you end up with a compromised telescope; see below. Is there an astro club near you? Most reflector owners there would do the modification for you. Yes. Yes, it's a pain. And you lose light around the secondary mirror which after moving the primary mirror is now too small to intercept all the light. In the end, if you want to do astrophotography, sell up, get the 130pds and have done with it! Cheers

And, more importantly, the length of the tube;) Cheers

Hi You're only about a cm from focus with your dslr, so simply put longer bolts (this was a 250p, so m5 bolts) to move your primary mirror up the tube. Keep the original springs and shim using nuts and/or washers. Here we went for a 3cm extension. Cheaper than buying a new camera;) HTH

Hi. Yes, but not I fear to do what you intend. With the motor disengaged, use a piece of rubber tube fitted over the shaft flat ends you mention during adjustment of the gear mesh. Turning the shaft by means of the rubber extension turns the worm, so allowing a check for binding between the worm and the gear. You can slacken off when you find a position where it binds. Do this around 360º and you have as good an adjustment as is possible. HTH

Hi Both mirrors would collect the same amount of light. To get faster optics I think you'd need a larger mirror, so I don't think it would be worth it as you'd need a new tube/spider... Everything. The main advantage of the f6 is that you -almost certainly- wouldn't need a coma corrector, so no glass to introduce colour abberation:) The only -not much of a- disadvantage is that you'd have a slightly narrower field of view when compared to the f5. Just my €0.02 but HTH anyway.

Ah, ok. So the double stars appear only in the stacked image? That happens when the individual frames have not been aligned, resized and rotated prior to stacking, so the stars on each frame coincide. Or maybe in this case, one errant frame - perhaps one with insufficient stars to be included in the registration process- has been stacked alongside the correctly registered frames. Cheers and HTH.

Hi. The main limitation of the EKOS guider -for me anyway- is that you need to re-calibrate for each target and after a meridian flip. With INDI providing positional and side of pier information on most mounts, it seemed a pity not to take advantage thereof. The other advantage of PHD2 is its choice of guiding algorithms over which fine control can be taken. Finally, PHD2 has IMHO, the best support available of any software, ever:) Cheers and clear skies.

Hi everyone Followed this one last night and wish I'd thrown more fl at it. This is 650mm. Strange coloured galaxy. I adjusted the colour against the photmometric stuff and this is what it gave. The orange milkyness maybe due to the dust between us and it; it's difficult to find a point which is black to give an idea as to how to colour calibrate it. Loadsa clutter. Stars and dust everywhere. Anyway, reasonably sized, even for a small telescope. Thanks for looking and do comment if you can see ways of improving this image. 700d @ ISO800

Ah, ok then. I understand. The first thing I'd recommend is getting as good a mount as your budget will allow. Then find out if your chosen camera will come to focus with your existing telescope. Cheers

It could be possible, but you'd be making imaging more difficult for yourself. You could get more advice asking in the eq3 section. Yes. But but beware the singularity of the answer;) HTH.

Hi Your chosen camera already has a small field of view; that telescope will narrow it further. That maybe what you want for e.g. galaxies but perhaps to begin with, the smaller telescope would be better as you'd be able to image more of the sky in one go. That mount maybe ok for the 130, but I think the 200 is pushing it a little too far. I'd still go for the heaviest mount you can afford as priority. Remember to budget a filter wheel for your camera. I think you maybe ok without a coma corrector. Are you sure you don't have access to a DSLR to get a feel for astrophotography on the mount you already have? HTH.

Hi. yes. You'll be able to see and image them all:) All mounts for astrophotography will include this anyway. You don't need to use it though. Cheers

Hi everyone. I found a plate solve way to get a better star colour. What it doesn't do however is tell you anything about the intensity thereof. What do we think to this? TIA and thanks for looking. 700d: ~90 minutes

Hi Turn off tracking for a while in between each frame. Make the time that the mount is not tracking random, up to say 15 seconds. Tell us what you are using to capture frames and we can be more specific. Cheers and HTH

Hi Of course. It's not for a forum to tell you what you can or can't buy! The camera has a small sensor so you may be OK without a coma corrector but if you want coloured images, you will need a filter wheel or drawer of some kind so you can use filters. You could take a chance on it coming to focus. Or ask the camera dealer. Or maybe someone here knows... A drop in replacement for your telescope which will just work is the SkyWatcher 130pds. But you still would need a mount to carry it all. I use an eq6 which are now available for around the same price as the oft recommended heq5. But remember you are now €1000 over budget and you don't yet have the filter stuff. Alternatives? Do you have a dslr? Your existing -motorised- mount would work well for wide angle views of the stars. Good luck and HTH