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Everything posted by alacant

  1. There's an -very- actively developed Mallincam driver in Indi and an equally stable eqmod diver for your eq5 under the same. You don't need ascom on Linux. Installation instructions here. You need only the first three steps. HTH
  2. https://www.valkanik.com/correctores-de-campo-y-reductores-de-focal/corrector-de-coma-de-2
  3. Hi If it's anything like as good as the 4-element AR152 f5 from the same manufacturer, you're in for a treat. Loadsa wide field 'wows' to be had. Sagittarius is breathtaking. Available here. HTH
  4. Hi If you're going to be hosting remote clients, take my advice. Don't be the guy on the ground at the telescope end;)
  5. Excellent images. If ever anyone needed... As an alternative to the baffle and one which retains the full diameter, simply remove the clips and fix the primary using three small helpings of neutral silicone sealant, sufficient and placed so a little oozes up the side where the clips were when the mirror is re-seated. Push down lightly to distribute then leave for 24 hours on a level surface. This method has the advantage of retaining collimation at all imaging angles and between sessions. Cheers
  6. Correct choice. You got there in the end! --- --- --- ***EDIT: I think maybe we owe @JoshHopkan apology. Here's hoping it's been useful for all.
  7. Optically it's a close second. The main problem in using it with a pds is the focus position. It is so far out from the tube that it is both very difficult to balance and I have serious doubts about the sw focuser's ability to maintain a camera at the required distance without tilt.
  8. Hi Nice shot. Here's the/our pragmatic approach to the Baader cc: There is tilt: tap a third hole on the focuser collar at 120º to the two existing screws. The flo adapter may help but still has only two screws, so still needs tapping. Push the camera-cc assembly hard up against the focuser collar whilst tightening each screw a tiny bit at a time until you're tight. The Baader cc has to be within 1mm of 58mm between the shoulder of the cc and the camera sensor. Yours looks a touch too close. It also has to be totally perpendicular to the optical axis. One good method to achieve this is to use a 4mm spacer e.g. the ring from a low profile 2" filter, having firstly of course, removed Baader's own attempt at spacing;) Other ccs are far more tolerant to both spacing and tilt. Or don't bother, stay as you are and just correct the stars in software;) ** If you're still in the grace period, it maybe worth considering exchanging the cc for the sw, gso or -best of all- the gpu. Discussion here. Cheers and HTH
  9. The secondary mirror intercepts the cone of light reflected from the primary mirror. Move the cone further up the tube... Now the secondary can't catch all the light as the diameter of the cone has increased; the bits around the edge now escape reflection. In this game, you need every photon you can lay hands upon!
  10. No. The GSO increases the FL and pushes the point of focus away from the tube so no need to cut anything. The secondary only just about covers a dslr sensor as it stands. But by all means try it. A few M5 bolts and stronger springs and you're in business although of the two ideas, cutting the focuser would be our choice. At the rock bottom budget end of the market, very little is optimised out of the box. Cheers
  11. Of the ones we've tried on the 130, the GPU is by far the best. Yes, it works well at f4 too. For round stars, you need to cut the focuser on all but the GSO. But hey, you may get lucky. Some never notice;) HTH
  12. Hi We tried four CCS. Assuming affordable is important... If you want corner to corner over aps-c out of the box, the GPU. The GSO comes a close second with the added advantage of not needing the focuser barrel cutting, the disadvantage being that it increases the focal length to over 700mm. Then comes the sw 0,9 which widens the field to a nice 585mm with the Baader the least satisfactory and prone to astigmatism. No theory. Just our hands on. HTH
  13. Maybe because it's had all the pi stuff stripped from it? There's some lovely detail. I think the stars add to it and the context.
  14. Hi Load the file and try: FILE -> save as Choose .fits Cheers
  15. We'd gladly have a go, but unfortunately it's for pi users only:(
  16. Hi Post the unprocessed stack if you like.
  17. Hi If you really do want to make the green circle coincide and it really isn't the thumb screws or tilt in the camera or the camera's sensor, try reseating the knurled collar, machining the top of the m54 thread square to the barrel... Or (much easier!) collimate using a Cheshire sight tube. Don't forget to read both telia and seronik who tell it just as it is. Cheers and HTH.
  18. Mmm. So it is displaced and tilted in the focuser barrel by the cable and it's own mass. Don't forget that with a Newtonian oriented horizontally, there is the tendency for the primary mirror to tilt forward toward the secondary; it is not held rigidly. Perhaps best to fix the camera firmly and collimate at a series of angles at which the telescope could actually assume when in use imaging. Cheers.
  19. The image(s) download is the old way of visualising it. With the overlay, you don't need them. Use one or the other; if you're short on graphics memory, go for the downloaded thumbnails. If not, just use the overlay; it's far prettier. If you like to search using ngc and ic numbers, maybe go for the catalogues too? These can also be found at Kstars -> Data -> Download New Data Cheers
  20. Hi Really? Kstars has the best graphics I've found on any planetarium. maybe you don't have any overlay set? You can use the NSEW mount controls to centre your camera accurately anywhere in the sky. Instead of 'Slew to Target', centre your desired field of view then in the Align module, check 'Sync' instead. It will show you exactly where you are aiming and the camera's field of view no matter which orientation you set. Cheers and HTH
  21. Hi I agree with @Jamgood. The two thumbscrews push the camera -or whatever is attached- off centre. The best way we've found to cure this is the third screw at 120º. Unfortunately the compression ring version still only has two screws and suffers the same mislignment, minus a bit for the thickness of the ring itself. So both require a third hole tapping. Oh, also have you tried eyeballing using a collimation cap then using a simple Cheshire sight tube with cross hairs? You may find it easier. Cheers and HTH
  22. Hi everyone This season's attempt at m45 whilst we still had use of the little 130. The aim was to try for a bit of that brownish coloured dust/fog you see all over Taurus. It's beginning to appear, but it's gonna need more frames to clean it and lose the noise. Just couldn't persuade myself to hit the denoise button. Yet... eos700d en 130pds. Calibración y apilado: Siril. Procesado: StarTools 1.8.516 EDIT: added an further 10 x 300s frames. Looks like that's the limit. Can't see much improvement...
  23. Don't want to hijak the OP's thread but anyway,.. If you're still not sure, when you're inside, you'll see that the hot mirror has a blue colour to it. On an eos, it's the sandwiched one. Good luck and please let us know how you get on. Cheers and HTH.
  24. Both filters on an eos are IR. Remove both for full spectrum, Removal of just the hot mirror is fine for most deep red astro stuff. HTH
  25. Hi The cone bearings at the base of each axis are almost invariably adjusted too tightly and some we've seen, dry. Many I suspect spend their entire lives like this. Very easy to fix: Just the bottom bit of each need be adjusted. A quarter turn anti-clockwise of the bush is usually all that's required. Cheers
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