alacant

... with the added advantage that if when you forget to tighten the saddle, the protruding bolt heads will prevent the whole assembly falling to the ground as you slew the mount EDIT: or, if you'd rather slide it in anyway, just keep the existing screws; you'll need to counter-drill using a 9mm bit to match the short one which came with the telescope.

Hi. How about a lens designed to cover full frame? It may work out more economical and you also have the advantage of an already flat field. HTH

Hi Yeah, why not? Presumably you'd piggyback them and guide one with the other? Otherwise as @wimvb suggests, a third telescope to be your guidescope. This one works well If you want nice stars with your reflector, use an off axis guider. Cheers

Hi everyone Just got one of these lovely bits of radioactive glass. Despite the full moon, just had to try it. Individual stars into the corners. It certainly beats the mush from my Canon 18-55;) Recommended.

Hi. Nice image. On the 400d you may get even better results using ISO 200; same amount of light, less noise. Cheers

I am not having problems extending the tube This may explain the issue better than I. Although I doubt that that would cause having insufficient travel, it may be with checking anyway. It caught us out, but rather on obtaining focus without using a long extension. Cheers

Hi. Make sure the tube rods are fully extended. I seem to remember a hidden 'click' of the connecting rods somewhere in the setup of the primary bucket and secondary assembly which provided the extra few mm to get the secondary to the correct position. HTH

If that doesn't get you going... ...depends which part of Murcia. I'm in Alicante if all else fails:) Cheers

Hi. The laser gets you close, but never nailed it for me. How about a Cheshire sight tube equipped with Cross hairs? Working at f3.9, it's the only reliable way I've found for both primary and secondary. HTH **EDIT: of course, never forget the all comers collimation myths

Hi everyone We removed the fat star frames and in an effort to get more green blue, stacked what was left with 6 more 8 minute frames with a UHC filter. It's done little for the green-blue, but intensified the red quite a bit...

Hi +1 to all of @Jkulin... Whatever you get, I'd recommend a proper focuser for the guide camera, e.g. this one, which just works. Push-pull focus over 2700mm is going to be near on impossible and I think you'll also need to bin -as in the sensor- your 290 to get stars. Cheers and good luck.

Have never had chance to look through a telescope of that size. Can you see colour?

Hi You still have the choice of being outside, just not necessarily next to the telescope;) LOL... Exactly!

My gf informs me that it's the formation of a flying flock we should be looking for. And she should know; she once joined the stars of m44 to make a bee pterodactyl;)

Hi everyone The EKOS scheduler did everything from starting by plate solving a reference frame and slewing to its centre 90 minutes before the meridian, guiding, the flip, re-centre and another 90 minutes after. Monitored via TeamViewer, we returned to find a neatly parked telescope with the job done. Recommended:) Had a quick google image search for the colours but couldn't find consensus; it seems anything goes. Maybe it could stand sharpening... Thanks for looking and any comments as always most welcome. 700d on 200-f4: 3 hours @ ISO800 ambient:26º sensor 33º

Hi Best to remove the diagonal. This should give you an idea of the distance you require: HTH

But they gave you a good alternative. Vnc in from your 'phone is probably easiest from there. Cheers and good luck.

Hi If I understand correctly, you are using indi's eqmod and canon drivers to control your mount and camera and they work under EKOS. Try: indiserver indi_eqmod_telescope I'm assuming the command line app on a mac does the same as a Linux terminal. Anyway, if that command returns we know indi_joystick is an omission. The executable should be in your path so no, but just in case maybe try the commands /usr/bin/indiserver /usr/bin/indi_eqmod_telescope That's where executables normally live on Linux at least. If not, we need a mac user to chip in...

You should type: indiserver indi_joystick HTH

Yes. It was added with indi 1.7.something so it should be included. I'm not a mac person but I'd guess you downloaded the latest version and ran the installer? IOW, whatever you did to install what you have now but with the latest version. But that's a guess... --- --- --- I'm not sure why you'd want a paddle with eqmod though... Let's hope a mac user can get onto this:)

It's included in the latest indilib so it should already be there unless it's a mac specific omission. Can you call it from the command line? ~$ indiserver indi_joystick 2019-08-07T09:37:03: startup: indiserver indi_joystick If not, my advice would be to upgrade to the latest indi (I think that's the one you get when you install kstars from here) or if you're brave, build it from the indi source and if still no go, ask on the indi forum. Cheers

NP, but warning... I use Linux and so am rendered incapable of explaining anything IT related in terms that anyone normal can understand! But I'll try... Here are links to gimp and startools, both of which are imaging apps. There are mac and windows versions too. Wavelet sharpen and wavelet denoise are extras you can add to gimp. If you find a better way to remove dslr chroma noise, do please share. Cheers and HTH

Hi. In this case GIMP's wavelet denoise. On 16-bit, StarTools is the only app I've found which deals properly with OSC (FWOABW) mottle. Cheers and HTH **M55: no idea it was there. If I can get my hands on our big reflector, I'll have a go tonight. But hey, really good to get anything like that low.

Hi. Excellent. I think it's good. I de-noised it a bit:

Thanks so much. I appreciate it. It looks nice. Yes, I see. You have white stars. Try as I may, unless I take the blue highlights down, I cannot get white. Dunno. Filters? Mine is an unfiltered camera lens and the eos is astro modified. Could that be it I wonder? Cheers.