alacant

Yeah, no problem. It just means that you'll be using only a fraction of the camera's capabilities. Good luck, but with a 174, you shouldn't need much:)

Hi. Normal. You've got the two cameras at the same focus on an object. It doesn't matter where the object is, it doesn't have to be far away but decide on one and get both cameras focused upon it. Forget the foreground whatever it is... What a nice problem to have! Assuming you need the T(hin) of the TOAG then something like a binned 120mm -where you could view full screen- would be more suitable. A whopping great 174 isn't necessary. BUT, if you have the back focus, you could move to an OAG with a larger prism that would cover the sensor. Cheers and HTH

Yes, but that's not a bad thing as it means DEC is guided constantly in one direction to counter the drift. Any closer to the pole however and I think you'd begin noticing banana stars; that would be the time to adjust polar alignment using alt-az drift. HTH and clear skies.

Hi. Nice shot. Hot pixels on the camera's sensor. You could use dark frames, dither between frames and stack using a clipping algorithm or -perhaps not the best- nail polar alignment. HTH

Hi Convert the 2000 CR2s to a format dss can read. The current favourite is dng. HTH

Hi. EKOS produces excellent previews here via its fits viewer. Could you post a screenshot of the preview and -a link to- the raw file? Check: camera set to RAW, M, B and ISO800, usb2 cable to usb2 socket direct. Cheers

Hi. asi178? The camera is covering only a small central area of the telescope's fov. You shouldn't need the coma corrector. Try without? Better stars, fewer aberrations. Cheers and HTH

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Try running APT as administrator. astrometry.net is a Linux tool. ansvr is a version which runs on windows. It was installed when you installed ps2 and asps from APT. Unless you reverse the damage bitdefender did, it will not run.

From the link I sent: Confirm that ansvr is running by opening the Ansvr Settings item in the Windows Start menu

Hi. My sadly waning command of English. Sorry. It's taken with a reflector but because we had only a 2 element cc, it has made refractor like halos around some stars. Cheers

It's most likely still there. bitdefender decided to kill it. That's all.

Hi. JTOL... Remove the SD card. Take both light and flat frames as fits files and store on the client. Don't forget the indi control panel: options > force bulb > off press the shutter partially in Av then back to M. Use usb2 sockets and cables. Still no go? How about the fits viewer histogram tool? Get it central and shoot. HTH

Hi everyone It's big telescope weekend, so we looked at taking advantage of filling more of the frame. No filters, so maybe this colour is correct (?). Always a challenge, colour. I sometimes wish it had never been invented! Oh, and just hate those refractor halo stars; cheepo cc. Anyway, thanks for looking. All comments as always most welcome. canon 700d @ ISO800

ASPS won't solve locally without it. If you had it working before, just restart it. http://www.astrogb.com/astrogb/All_Sky_Plate_Solver.html https://adgsoftware.com/ansvr/ HTH

APT was mentioned so assuming windows. Are you sure ansvr is running? HTH

Hi My guess is no. Your camera has a very small sensor so you probably won't notice. Worth a try?

Hi Nice shot. A few ideas... The stars are trailing which give the impression of inflated stars; guiding/tracking/polar alignment. Out of focus (?); use a focusing mask. CC; the Baader makes stars fatter; lose the cc. I don't think you'll need one with your camera. HTH

Hi. Triangular stars; I'd put good money on it. But hey, you have to go looking;)

Try both and see which is best for you? But no, no need to disconnect the camera. Just flip the dial around to Av and leave the indi control panel on M. Just flip back to M when you have the exposure time. If you want a complicated an alternative method, you could use ekos' flat calibration module: HTH and do let us know what you decide.

Hi. You could set aperture priority in the indi panel or, easier, set the camera to Av pointed at your light source, depress the shutter to get the exposure, set it back to M then fire off the flat frames in EKOS using the shutter speed you just found. Just two of many methods... Cheers and HTH.

Thanks. Yeah. Scary: four people lost their lives. We now have rainforest humidity and either high haze or low cloud. Only 3 ap worthy nights in September but hey, we live to tell the tale. Cue mosquitos...

That is an amazing achievement. We once tried a c8. Couldnt get anything like. Cheers and well done.

Hi Not sure what this is. Is it the bias that is causing the banding? Are you sure it's not simply artefacts left after aligning the frames during stacking? Leaving edge aretefacts -particularly as you dithered- before stretching may produce the type of localised banding along one edge. HTH.

Hi Substitute a value not greater that 59 for the 67, then on the toolbox screen, hit 'ASCOM Connect'. HTH