Erling G-P

This might explain something that's been puzzling me. When I turned 14, I was given a modest refractor; 60mm and f=1000mm. Used it a lot back then, but have had active observing on the backburner for many years. Last August I finally got a bigger telescope which I've coveted all the way since then: A SW 200PDS; with the main purpose of getting into imaging. Have observed a little with it though, and have wondered why all stars appear virtually colourless white - I recall the colours being much more vivid in the old refractor; Albireo for example. In the new scope, I can perceive a difference between the two stars, but it's just a subtle blue and orangeish toning, more than a stand out spectacle. Based on John's comment, it's probably the 40 years of wear my eyeballs have accumulated, more than the scope, which is to blame.. (If only you could be refurbished like an old house or car...) Regards, Erling

Update: Have now received UNC 1/4" bolts from FLO and it is indeed those which fits. Next problem was that I don't have an Allen key which fits the bolts - 4mm is too small, and 5mm is too big. Have resorted to tightening them with a pair of pliers for now, which seems to be enough.

Been out with my SW 200PDS the last few nights in a row, observing Jupiter & Saturn with an atmospheric dispersion corrector (don't think I've ever had so many mosquito bites at one time before... ). Jupiter looks remarkably like the image posted by Geoff above, and I've actually found Saturn more rewarding. Have clearly seen (well glimpsed) the Cassini division in the rings, that the inner part of the rings is brighter than the outer, and have seen a colour difference between the planet & the rings, with the planet more yellowish brown, with traces of cloud bands. Did require observing for a while, to catch the details in those rare moments when the seeing was best, but it's far better than anything I've seen before, having only observed it with a modest 60mm refractor I got in my teens, some 40 years ago. With the ADC, I have to use a barlow, as I can't reach focus with the eyepieces alone. Used an 8mm SWA, which gives 250x magnification with the barlow. Probably too much, but the smallest at my disposal. Tried imaging them with a DSLR last night, shooting video, but it was no good - even with the 2x barlow, they're just too small to make anything useful of.

Just curious, having just started imaging with a DSLR, and having a long way to go before I'm ready for mono cameras and filters. Would you need all 8 filters in one session, or do you just keep all your filters loaded and control which ones to use in a given session ?

That would be my guess. I used 175 30-sec subs for my image, but we probably need the OP to quantify 'didn't have any success'.

Certain about that ? This image is with my PDS200 and 30-sec exposures with a Nikon D7000. Of course a 200PDS has more light gathering power, but if I can get something with 30-sec subs, shouldn't 60-sec ones then be useable with a 130PDS ?

Fingers crossed regarding the clouds Using the app has improved the accuracy of my own polar alignments, so a very useful tool indeed.

The dovetail is 15mm thick, and I just measured the 'depth ' of the hole in the tube ring to 17mm, so 30mm max - 25mm / 1" would be fine I think.

A very tiny bit yes, and then pretty much locks in place. Haven't wanted to use any force, for fear of damaging the thread.

Have now tried the M6 bolts and unfortunately they don't fit. Thus looks like I must hunt for some UNC bolts instead.

Best of luck with the alignment. If you're not already using it, I can recommend the Synscaninit2 app. It gives you a graphical view of what you should see in the polar scope, (where Polaris should be placed on the circles) I find it easier to emulate this, rather than estimating myself where Polaris should be placed, based on the time given by the hand controller. The app has both 'old' and 'new' polar scope modes, so you will have to select the right one.

If there's doubt whether lack of balance combined with potential heavy eyepicece might affect the alignment, then why not just balance the scope with the eyepiece used, before doing the alignment ? Have you asked the seller about this problem ? Maybe it's something he (she?) has encountered and perhaps knows the explanation for.

Thanks for the replies guys - had thought the answer would have been a simple one I'll test the M6 bolts; probably tomorrow and report back what I find.

Thanks for the replies. Actually got some M6 bolts today, but haven't tested them yet. First the home depot overcharge me for 4 bolts, and then I come home and spot that there's only 3 bolts in the box. Won't break the seal as it's going back for a replacement! Incidently, if UNC is the type required; would such be available from home depots too ? Placed an order with FLO last night and they've already dispatched it, so too late to include the UNC bolts.

Like the majority, I also prefer the first one, with the more extended and more blue outer regions, and slightly more subdued ha regions. Do prefer the core and the smaller stars, and star colours of the second one though, so if a mix was possible... Both are astonishing though and I would be very proud of either one !!