Dr_Ju_ju

not tried it, but enter "shutdown now" or "sudo shutdown now"

As long as it focusses ok, you just won't be limiting the bandpass of the incoming light (https://www.firstlightoptics.com/zwo-filters/zwo-125-lrgb-filter-set-optimised-for-asi1600.html) which may or may not be affected by any specific light pollution you may have locally....

At home my mounts are usually power by the 12 volt output from a computer power supply, with no issues..... When at Star Parties, I use a Maplin linear supply, which has an indent on the voltage control, that sets the output to 13.8 volts, and once again I've never seen any issues.....

In no particular order: D-Limonene, Evo-Stick Adhesive Cleaner, Isopropyl Alcohol.... But be careful as some of these are VERY volatile & will quite happily rot away other parts !!

Get a vacuum cleaner (Karcher ?), that can also be used for cleaning cars etc...

First off which version of Windows are you using ?? Then start with the basics, after installing EQMod, & connecting your PC to the mount, open EQMod Toolbox, and in the Setup section "Driver Setup" you first check the Comm Port settings are as per the Windows, Device Manager, Ports settings... If they are the same you should be able to drive the mount directly using EQMod....

I would hope that SkyWatcher would provide a driver, that when you connect the PC USB port to the USB-A port on the mount, the mount would then be correctly recognised by the PC, but I'm afraid I can't find one.... So personally, I'd but a USB to serial adapter, and take it from there....

Regular printer cables won't work, you need to have a USB to 'Serial' adapter, as Paul linked to above, which when you have one, can connect to either the handset or directly to the mount (using the port that the hand controller plugs into...)

You must be using some form of interface adaptor between your PC & the hand controller ?? if so, have you set the hand controller into 'Direct PC mode' ? And you should be able to connect the device you have connected to the handset, direct to the mount, into the same port the the hand controller plugs into.... & the salesperson is an an idiot, any additional software is freely available....

So what software are you actually using to direct the mount ?? e.g. if you use something like CDC (https://www.ap-i.net/skychart//en/start) connected the mount to the mount does it drive it to the assigned target ?? Also try connecting your PC direct to the mount, not via the hand controller...

Also, if you can, you can increase the throughput speed by partitioning the internal drive, especially my moving the pagefile to a dedicated partition and also a dedicated data partition....

To generate nuts & bolts, both metric, imperial, BSF etc., I use the OpenScad library (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:965737) which can then be imported into the cad package for further manipulation...

If you're after accurate, design software, have a look at OpenScad (https://openscad.org/) .... like everything else, it takes a bit of getting to know, but will soon be able to knock up small items in OpenScad, which can then be imported into Tinkercad (https://www.tinkercad.com/) for further manipulation etc.

What are the connectors on the power supply ??? but usually one of theses will do https://www.firstlightoptics.com/astronomy-cables-leads-accessories/lynx-astro-silicone-power-cable-for-sky-watcher-az-eq5-az-eq6-eq6-r-eq8-r-mounts.html

Don't heat the white foot, just the tube & let the heat travel into the foot.

My bad, you are correct.....

It also looks like you're using an old v2.00 version, so I'd suggest that you update to the latest version i.e. v2.6.9dev5 (https://openphdguiding.org/development-snapshots/) which will also give you multi star guiding, which give a big improvement....

I think one of my issues, was the Pi3 that drives the printer, via Octoprint, wanted to do some updates & the underlying OS, also wanted to do a load of updates as well !! All working much happier, post updates

Good Luck, I've lost 2 large print runs this week, so make sure you have enough filament & only using the max infill that's needed .....

Is this for viewing or imaging ? If viewing then you may be able to get away with an HEQ5... But if you intend to go the imaging route, then double you payload allowance, to account for guider, cameras, focusers, filter-wheels etc. which would then point to an EQ6Pro, or as recommended by Ermelo, an AZEQ6, which is what I use.

Just try buying a genuine Wyze cam in the UK !!, as most seem to be cheap Chinese knock-offs, even on Amazon.....

For those of us that do Astrophotography, we spend a lot of money on the cameras, filters, etc. but even with our best endeavours, we still end up with dust bunnies somewhere in the optical chain, requiring that we have to take flats, to process them out.... On the front 'open', elements lenses\mirrors etc. there's not much that can be done, apart from some basic 'house-keeping'. But when it comes down to the 'closed areas', e.g. between the image sensor and camera 'front window', where ZWO fit their desiccant tablets, which periodically need to be re-charged\replaced, and then to the filter wheels etc. even with my best efforts I still end up with some miniscule bit of fluff, right in the middle of the frame GRRRR. So to try & minimise the problem & after a quick search around, I decided to knock-up a 'dust free chamber', using some cheap components, 3D printed parts, and a household vacuum cleaner... The basic enclosure is a Wham 45L box (Tesco £7), main Air filter (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111275363570?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2648 £9), bag air filter (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253984300170?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2648 £9 for 3off) & long sleeve gloves (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324300228591?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=513372382094&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2648 £4), all other parts I printed of had leftover from old decoration jobs (Wickes sealing strip in the lid rebate). The only real problem I had, was that the enclosure is made of a very brittle plastic, so to cut the holes, I used an old Antex soldering Iron, with very fine pointed tip, i.e. a cheaper version of a 'hot-knife', and for what they are, are very over-priced.... If anyone is interested in knocking one up, I've included the gcode files & the OpenScad 'masters'. GCodes.zip OpenScad.zip

Have you had a look at the self build options i.e. https://www.astroeq.co.uk/tutorials.php?link=buildown It's not too difficult & can even be knocked up on veroboard....

Why must the tripod be perfectly level ?? as long as it close, good polar alignment will take care of any 'inaccuracies'...

You can also get RGB floodlights, that allow you to set the colour and the brightness e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303952907712?hash=item46c5014dc0:g:844AAOSwa0pgbrVM