geordie85

After alot more googling it turns out that my super fast processing laptop doesnt avx instructions, that's why it doesn't work. My mega slow acer does though, but it takes around 3 hours to do 1 image

The past couple of nights have been clear but instead of setting up the full rig, I've just taken my DSLR, a couple of lenses and a static tripod out to capture comet neowise and I've had a great time. Sometimes the pursuit of better images can make us forget the beauty and simplicity of this hobby.

I'm having a continuous problem with starnet that I cannot seem to fix no matter what I do. I keep getting the error message below and nothing seems to fix it. A Google search claims that it is caused by a corrupt license but everything I have ever downloaded is genuine and paid for or free. I've also tried just about every "fix" Google throws at me but I'm still no further forward. The only thing I have doubts about is Windows 7 itself as it came pre installed on the laptop when I bought it second hand, which came without a box. What can I do as Windows 7 is no longer available and I really don't want to swap over to Windows 10. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Once you've plate solved to your intended target and its the center of your field of view, swith over to stellarium, hold ctrl and press 3. That will sync to where your scope is actually pointing and not where it thinks its pointing.

A great image of a very low target

If you press the 2nd button down on the left you can enter any focal length you want so you can put camera lens focal length in. This is the only site I use for planning imaging sessions and framing DSO's

You'll also need an ir/ uv cut filter for this camera

I do believe it is a coma corrector for use with newtonian telescopes

You may find this helpful for polar alignment. http://www.weasner.com/lxd/techtips/polar_alignment.html

The easiest way is what you're already doing. Even with mono imaging, you still need to align the histogram of all 3 channels

You could always combine your ha and O111 subs then add the ha layer again as a luminance, then blur the original ha O111 layer

That's muhh better. Well done on a fine image

Are you sure that all of your channels are aligned properly?

Plane?

That all depends on how far you're willing to travel. I live in Swindon and I've traveled to a lovely spot near Salisbury that's quite secluded and the best I've ever seen the milky way.

Bortle 6 according to clear outside.

Not long before we lost astro darkness I started collecting data on the iris nebula. I plan to get alot of data on this dso, but due to iut not getting properly dark at the moment is there any point in collecting any more data on it? I was thinking about just shooting it in rgb until astro darkness returns, but would this data hold up with proper luminance once it gets dark again? Or should I just stick to Narrowband targets until August?

They're hot pixels. Dithering should get rid of them.

Sear ih YouTube for atik cameras, there's one that says if you out a small hole in a bit of tinfoil and put it over the sensor, you'll be able to get an almost in focus image without the use of any lens like a telescope or dslr lens

Hello and welcome. As you probably already know there are some beautiful places in Wiltshire that are perfect for star gazing and are rather quite dark.

Where abouts are those stars in the image? It looks like a spacing issue or maybe tilt.

It looks like you've got good colour data. I'd crop the image to get rid of the glow in the top right and bottom left of the image.

Sorry auto correct

Have you tried bringing the histogram down then processing from there?

The iris nebula is an emission Nebula so LRGB is the way to go