Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.



Advanced Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

163 Excellent

About Z3roCool

  • Rank
    Star Forming

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Location
    South Derbyshire - UK
  1. PHD2 will just allow you to guide using a star. You will need imaging software like Backyard EOS or APT to select targets to shoot. I use EQMod and Plate Solve to get onto target. Not used my hand controller but you will need to Polar align and then do star alignment with hand controller. Once done you should be able to use the hand controller to slew the mount to a target and take a shot with Backyard EOS or APT (Others available). You will need to focus also before doing all this. You can use the imaging software and Bahtinov mask or FWHM in the software. Some great videos on YT and walk throughs searching on google. Hope that helps a little.
  2. If taking darks the next day with a set point camera do you need to keep the camera at the same angle in the scope?
  3. Interesting - thanks for the info. My guiding is not working at 100% for sure. Only just started using it and get an RMS error over 1. Have not yet run the Guide Assistant so will do that next and see if I can get the error down to 0.5ish. Will have to look at Drift Alignment. Cheers, Tom.
  4. Hi all, I have been using Sharpcap and my guide scope and camera to PA with fairly good results (I think). I have been looking at the Polemaster and wonder if anyone has got any experience of both? Is PM that much better to warrant the price tag? I currently get about 5min subs before I see my stars drifting out, may just be that I do not have my guiding down yet fully. Any info appreciated. Thanks, Tom.
  5. I have not used it but have seen a fair few people with images processed with it and they look awesome!
  6. That sounds brilliant May have a look at this...even though I did an Electronics & Engineering course many years ago...I am not the best when it comes to DIY but will have a go
  7. Many thanks Nigel for the info. Sounds promising I will look into that for sure.
  8. Hi there, currently use a Canon 400mm lens but at some point soon will purchase a SW Esprit 80 or 100. Once I get comfy with my setup I will want to go down the Auto Focus route with SGP running the process. I have taken a look into what I would need to get this up and running but cannot find much info. Can anyone advise on this at all? Probably fairly simple but have no knowledge at all. Many thanks for your time, Tom.
  9. I think the Veil is up later in the year and targets in Cygnus areas in general (Want to try a Widefield panel in NB). Wil llso be looking at Cocoon Nebula Wizard Nebula and Elephant's Trunk. Will be interested about the LP filter also with LRGB as I am going to shoot NB from my Bortle 6 area.
  10. Hi, I am in a similar situation to you. I shoot from my Dads in Bortle4 on the Isle of Wight with DSLR and get good results. If I do the same at home in Bortle6 the results are not as good. I am planning on going Narrowband for home and RGB when on the IOW.
  11. Very nice Roger! I am picking up the 183 soon. Which filters are you using? EDIT** Just looked on Astrobin (Baader and ZWO...)
  12. Hi there, just after some advise on what others would do...just to see if I am missing any options/ideas. Currently have NEQ6, Canon 7D and 400mm 5.6 L lens. Use scope and GPCam2 for guiding. I am looking at upgrading to a mono camera with, to begin with, NB filters. I have saved and sold some lenses and look to spend around 1.5k on the setup. My thoughts are an ASI183MM Pro with filter wheel (EFW5) and Astronomik 6nm NB filters. Will use the Canon to EFW adapter. Will be shooting around the 500mm and shorter focal lengths so the smaller pixels should be fine in regard to sampling. Does anyone have any ideas on what they would buy in my position? Different camera/filters etc. Thanks for any input. Tom.
  13. I think if you are looking to shoot longer focal lengths then the 1600MM is the way to go. I have also read that more integration time is needed on the 183 compared to the 1600 due to its higher resolution. Better SNR on 1600 but less resolution. FOV should be taken into account also (With the 1600 having more).
  14. I am in a similar position. I am about to go with the ASI183MM Pro, about £300 cheaper than the 1600MMPro. This will allow me to get better filters. The 183 has smaller pixels and is suited more to shorter focal lengths (400ish).
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.