happy-kat

I think this is with the lenses removed, ST80 Orion livery, and before I then blackened the inside and on the shiny bits.

This one https://youtube.com/watch?v=Ylb7xnc_03U&si=AEfpjBegxXAtiyOz

I took mine apart I followed atronomyshed video on the ST80 it also covered collimating it

Might it help please to see a picture of how you have arranged your setup that isn't balancing for you currently?

It was clear yesterday and got to set up. The plus points my landscape in stellarium whilst not perfect but helped a lot. The home assembled mount base worked great. Connecting everything in the right order worked. Did 1 star alignment so no bending or looking through a finder and used ASICAP on a mobile to just check focus. Switched to the 10m USB and now on the PC. Sharpcap Pro plate solving the new feature worked great and sync to the mount. Tried guiding which worked but was very poor graph but likely more me then the mount was first go and I forgot to select a middle star as was in altaz though I was using just single star. The only less successful bits were user error so I've updated my check list for next try but I did get good tracking 30 seconds with no trailing unless pixel peeping. Made me realise the SS50 is rather slick at what it does.

there is a comet being reported visible in binoculars at the moment

My lenses had a tiny space because there were 3 tiny spacers If you did not have three tiny spacers when you took your lenses out and only that really fine ring then go with using that. You'll have to try your ST80 on the stars to see if it looks ok now. There is also a video somewhere on dealing with deep scratches on a lens, if I find it I'll link it.

Also be careful to keep the small spacers that are between the lenses, but it might be your thin ring is the spacer, if it where then when you took your lenses out I would have expected the thin ring to be in-between the two lenses This is my Orion ST80 that I took apart following that video. Lenses at the start, note the tiny spacers.

when you take it apart there are two elements, this youtube is helpful and gives you info to help you with your ST80, it's a great telescope well worth fixing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ylb7xnc_03U

That's great on wards to the next step. You can choose the best frame in the registered list and mark as your reference frame, the stack will then be based on that frame when you stack.

When you have registered them look at the score and #stars columns this will give an idea to what DSS found, pick a low star image are the stars trailing?

If you just register first, don't stack, then you'll get to see what DSS makes of each of your light frames Attaching jpg is more instantly helpful when seeking feedback

Did you make your own hole in the box and used an o ring for the dome?

Oops wrong thread

if you are intending to use a mix of goto and freedom find (manual moving the mount) then after connecting the mount in the synscan app go to settings and turn on dual encoders, that's needed if wanting the mount to keep track of when you move it to by hand when both clutches are loose

Could think about spending less and getting an Astro camera that opens up for EEA or planets or guiding like for example ASI585MC and see how that goes, I don't have that one but like what it does. See maybe on astrobin for example images

Nature's finest

why now get to grips with what you have ordered already before deciding on spending more on a new camera

In that budget would a 585 and a reducer sort the issues mentioned @Elpand be in budget

Not yet as haven't sorted second telescope out yet, but will use PHD2 which I'm sure will play nicely with software used.

what software is that please?

What about the asi wide angle lens that come with most of those cameras that might already have

Do you get the halos if the L- pro filter is not used

the plate solve on the test deep sky camera was fast and the annotations are great