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Everything posted by happy-kat

  1. That looks like an alternative, I wanted to use what I had already though I wasn't happy how I had been mounting the 50ED as didn't find it rock solid (I was using the supplied foot in a tiny finder shoe) but the rings were fine hence the solution I went for. I'll have to count the turns on the mounting ring screws to ensure the 50ED is parallel to the bar but given my imaging limitations perfect alignment is the least of my challenges.
  2. Hi You might find this episode of StarGaZine useful to watch, for processing if you have nothing already then GIMP will give you an immediate capable solution and will do a lot of functionality for processing the output. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjVG_FE0NG4
  3. Just looking using my phone on the jpg your stars are tight so I would stack away.
  4. That's a good read. The C70 is f10. It was nice reading your Moon report as you didn't mention any CA. The CA I experienced using the C70 I was able to attribute to the inbuilt prism (I've striped it down and made a new back plate for using a diagonal).
  5. Have made the mount up now, if I find an m5 bolt and plain nut I'll use that through one of the original holes through the camera tripod threaded hole on the bar to ensure everything is as true lined as I can get it. Two new holes added to the evoguide plate. I may use an permanent black pen to go over the exposed aluminium. The parts, I bought the bar second hand off here but I did need to buy the m4 bolts and nylock nuts, the rest was in the bits box washers and plastic fixing blocks. Fitted showing the back. Topside. With the two grooves in the bar if needed the rings can be repositioned.
  6. @Astro_Dadthe T mount in your link would need the right T ring for your camera, though looking at your picture you already have the T ring. Your picture button little black piece looks like the actual barlow element (described as a shorty barlow) that's great it would likely screw onto the T mount (like the one in your link) when you wanted to use a barlow.
  7. Another shower in the right direction if its clear though the current forecast isn't great yet. Thanks for the heads up.
  8. That's a lot better, great. Did you use that video I linked?
  9. The nose adaptor is made of two parts, a T ring for the camera model and a T mount for the nose bit, they attach together then fit in the focuser. M42 size for 1.25 focuser barrel.
  10. I use a lifEP04 powertank on my virtuoso v1 and have not experienced the random moves.
  11. There is more in there, this is a great target if are new to startools to see this video, it doesn't matter if you are using a newer version. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PPoJ-lMwctA
  12. The virtuoso mount has freedom find, with the odd shift when observing Jupiter you could try just reselecting Jupiter to view. Overall alignment shouldn't have been lost.
  13. The rings from the lid material are .5mm and the side material ring is .7mm when measured under compression. So I'm thinking +/- .01mm
  14. Good to see examples of this filter being used and 30 second exposures, coupled with f16 it shows I shouldn't rule this filter out with even shorter exposure potential.
  15. The super evoguide now comes with a dovetail fitting, and earlier in the year this was not available to get separately from Skywatcher if you had an original 50ED which I do (FLO now stock this new separate mounting bar for the evoguide Link). I then looked out for and picked up a second hand bar and will be using two fixing spacers, m4 countersunk alan bolt x2, nylock nut and washer to fix the 50ED plate to the dovebar. In order to fix the plate I still need to drill one hole in it as the existing holes are too close together to use both. A quick scribble to work out spacer needs with the EVOFF-v2 and realised I would need some and as stock was currently delayed I would make some. Found some plastic destined for recycling that I could use. I don't need to paint them black as they're not seen by the FF. I also need to find the micrometer on order to measure the thickness of my home made spacers as I may need to cut some more.
  16. Hi Gosh that's a steep price. Maybe EEVA might suit and I've seen it done on a tracking AltAz mount and goto would be a great help too. https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/332944-whats-eeva/
  17. The heritage 130p and also one sky are the same telescope truss and focuser design and have been used for years.
  18. That's great you were able to use the building you had already and fit that mezzanine floor by repurposing of the space
  19. I liked that the video covered the focus lock mechanism as some assume it doesn't have one as no evident screw
  20. FLO sell the new vixen style bar and spacer though earlier in the year this didn't exist so I've made my own vixen bar and spacer. Also from another member's testing a shorty barlow mounted Infront of a diagonal gains missing focus travel for visual use, though I really need to test this with my 1.6 shorty.
  21. Great to see the heritage OTA used, as the trusses are dropped if you've collapsed it after use I'd take new flats and dark flats with each session.
  22. Seeing as you own a 5d what lenses do you already own? Imaging can be done successfully with a camera lens and if you own suitable lenses already this might help your choices
  23. So many great images, will done all. It's amazing what can be captured.
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