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Everything posted by happy-kat

  1. You did well capturing the Moon at 1/8. It's good to experiment. Faster repeated exposures give greater chance of capturing during moments of less atmospheric disturbance. If possible video is good to use to be able to capture lots more frames as software like Registax stacks the best frames.
  2. What was your exposure on the Moon with your f22? I took some single shots with the Moon last week and have stacked them using Registax (planetry stacker) which also has super wavelet sharpening functions.
  3. Being treated again with lovely data, thank you. This is a first pass to see what the image was, I hope to reprocess at a less aggressive bin % and update this image but I wanted to share what I had done. StarTools 1.8.515a compose | crop | bin 50% | wipe | aautodev | HDR | colour [SHO 40SII+60Ha,70Ha+30OIII,100OIII] | shrink | denoise
  4. I would look for a prime none zoom lens sand old m42 lenses with an adaptor will fit the 1000d. Around £30 should sort that out. There's lots of pushing you can do with the mount you already own but you'll get more of you can mount your camera straight to the mount. The no eq dso challenge thread has lots of posts.
  5. StarTools protects against clipping data but does use the full dynamic range available and I find often pushes the peak left, but it wont have clipped the data. Though for personal taste in Filmdev I lift skyglow (leave the stretch as is)
  6. The FF I'm using needs 55mm so the spacers are making the distance up from T ring and DSLR as I'm a little over 1mm too close without them, I'm using the Starizona FFv2.
  7. That's a nice easy start vid for people to follow. I think as the register process has not yet been run and stack is ticked there that's why the stacking summary page doesn't know total exposure time.
  8. I I'm going to try it next time with just one of my 0.5mm spacers next time to compare the corner stars to see if I can get perfect. Edit: wrong way, I'll test using .5 and a .7 3x.5 2x.5 and a .7 4x.5
  9. I had forgotten I had made this earlier thread, so this is the link to using the 50ED with my FF https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/384531-50ed-preparation/?do=findComment&comment=4155926
  10. Last night it was clear for a few hours and as I wanted to test that the flattener was working it did not matter the Moon was pretty full and in the best bit of sky. I used the virtuoso v1 mount with a LiFEp04 tank and a canon 1100d DSLR with the EVOFF-v2 and two of the 0.5mm plastic spacers I had made plus a flocked flowerpot on the 50ED as I contend with 5 street lights, one on my left shoulder North 15 feet away and one to the South 30 feet away so I am somewhere between the two bang on the bright Moon. I used Jupiter to focus on (my quickly made Y mask did not help so will have to make that again as the V was wrongly placed as a prior made one had worked) but getting focus on Jupiter's moons was good enough for testing. This was taken a few years ago but shows the natural star issues using a DSLR and no FF with the 50ED, 4 second exposure with tracking. The mount did not play ball yesterday and for this test I wanted to rule out field rotation anyway so took 0.5 second exposures, this is an image made of layering the 9 espousers together. Looking at the corners the stars are pretty good and though the right side is not as good as the left a bit of sigm clipping on stacking would probably sort that out. As the Moon was there I did a series of images to place the Moon in the middle then corners and then layered each over the centred Moon to expose any drift using the two bright features in the middle (though these were biased to the top half but nothing else was strong enough to use for reference) of the Moon to best manually visually align. Top right blue corner over middle Top left green corner over middle Bottom left red corner over middle Bottom right yellow corner over middle All corners over middle Whilst the Moon images do show slight stretching the individual star images are what count and I am very happy with the flatness the flattener achieves on the 50ED star field and certainly looking at images in Astrobin with a flattener either this one or Skywatcher great results are achieved.
  11. That looks like an alternative, I wanted to use what I had already though I wasn't happy how I had been mounting the 50ED as didn't find it rock solid (I was using the supplied foot in a tiny finder shoe) but the rings were fine hence the solution I went for. I'll have to count the turns on the mounting ring screws to ensure the 50ED is parallel to the bar but given my imaging limitations perfect alignment is the least of my challenges.
  12. Hi You might find this episode of StarGaZine useful to watch, for processing if you have nothing already then GIMP will give you an immediate capable solution and will do a lot of functionality for processing the output. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjVG_FE0NG4
  13. Just looking using my phone on the jpg your stars are tight so I would stack away.
  14. That's a good read. The C70 is f10. It was nice reading your Moon report as you didn't mention any CA. The CA I experienced using the C70 I was able to attribute to the inbuilt prism (I've striped it down and made a new back plate for using a diagonal).
  15. Have made the mount up now, if I find an m5 bolt and plain nut I'll use that through one of the original holes through the camera tripod threaded hole on the bar to ensure everything is as true lined as I can get it. Two new holes added to the evoguide plate. I may use an permanent black pen to go over the exposed aluminium. The parts, I bought the bar second hand off here but I did need to buy the m4 bolts and nylock nuts, the rest was in the bits box washers and plastic fixing blocks. Fitted showing the back. Topside. With the two grooves in the bar if needed the rings can be repositioned.
  16. @Astro_Dadthe T mount in your link would need the right T ring for your camera, though looking at your picture you already have the T ring. Your picture button little black piece looks like the actual barlow element (described as a shorty barlow) that's great it would likely screw onto the T mount (like the one in your link) when you wanted to use a barlow.
  17. Another shower in the right direction if its clear though the current forecast isn't great yet. Thanks for the heads up.
  18. That's a lot better, great. Did you use that video I linked?
  19. The nose adaptor is made of two parts, a T ring for the camera model and a T mount for the nose bit, they attach together then fit in the focuser. M42 size for 1.25 focuser barrel.
  20. I use a lifEP04 powertank on my virtuoso v1 and have not experienced the random moves.
  21. There is more in there, this is a great target if are new to startools to see this video, it doesn't matter if you are using a newer version. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PPoJ-lMwctA
  22. The virtuoso mount has freedom find, with the odd shift when observing Jupiter you could try just reselecting Jupiter to view. Overall alignment shouldn't have been lost.
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