sloz1664

Totally agree Andy. It's an "Engineer's Mount" Steve

Hi Lorenzo and a very warm welcome to the Lounge Steve

It seems the capacitors on both the EQ5 & 6 boards fail on quite a regular basis, reading reports over the last few years. I often thought of buying a spare board for my Avalon, which incidentally has the same board as the EQ6. But at £100 for a board which costs a few pounds to make grieves me. I'll purchase a few capacitors - Just in case... Great to see you got it fixed Malcolm. Steve

I feel your pain, but before we go of on the imaging aspects of this RC scope let's get back to basics. What is the scope like visually? Are you getting the correct concentric circles in and out of focus, if so, we have a good collimated scope. If not, there are some very good RC collimation videos on youtube. Now if we have a good collimated scope let's have a look at imaging... Although you haven't included any additional equipment; mount, guiding equipment, camera etc. These can have a bearing on the quality of your images. Any additional information will aid and help to point you in the right direction. Steve

Totally agree with that Tony. In fact my dome is automatically inching it's way round now whilst I'm obtaining some nice subs of the Soul Nebula Steve

Hi Tony, I did something similar with my Pulsar 2.1M dome. I also used a windscreen wiper motor to drive the dome, via the Velleman project and didn't want to use batteries. I built an extended support onto the dome to mount the drive belt so I could use a mains 12v dc 10 amp power supply. Dome Rotation.mp4 Steve

The prices are increasing on any Tal product as they are now getting thin on the ground. It all depends on the condition and what you get with the scope, mount, drive motors etc. Steve

Going great Malcolm. The addition will stop you from getting a bad back. You will certainly enjoy having an observatory. Best piece of astro equipment I have invested in by a country mile. Steve

Firstly, congratulations on obtaining your first CCD. Secondly, thank you for your in-depth findings of your QHY8L. Regarding gain & offset, I would set your gain to around 8 - 10 and your offset seems ok. Have a look at the attached gain & offset proceedure:- gain and offset.pdf Steve

Hi Steve, I use this one:- Steve

Oh.. I've had everything happen to my "chinese cloned. "smoked and died" I panicked into thinking I'd messed up my circuits Not worked at all and a couple that have died after a few days. Luckily they are cheap and I now have a stock of spares Steve

Hi Gina, Just a subtle point. Whenever you design any components that protrude like the four tags on your model, add fillet radii at the base of the tags to give them strength. Otherwise you will find they will "break off" quite easily. You should always consider this on all your designs. If you have the room to add a strengthening radius - add one. The bigger, the better. Steve

Hi Alan, I suggest you download PHD2. Open it up and read the impatient Instructions found in the Help Tab. This will forward you to other topics. You can also find lots of tutorials on Youtube. Steve

Hi Alan, Yes you don't need the Nightwatch Studio to guide. It was Brightstar's imaging software. You will need the Ascom driver to interface with PHD2. BTW what imaging software are you g+oing to use t+o capture your images. Steve

Hi Alan, Yes I did, it makes a good guide camera. Steve

Hi Alan, I still have the software available for my now departed Mammut camera, if you still require them. Steve

Yes I've already got everything figured out, just need to clean up the code. The nema17 gets very hot even being driven at low currents, I'm going to stick a heat sink on it which should fix everything up. Apparently stepper motors just run hot sometimes when they get pushed hard. You're Stepper motor shouldn't getting hot. This looks like it's energised constantly and will not last long in this condition. Steve

If you are looking at motor permutations relative to what you require then look on R Brown's site for his in-depth information on motors and drivers etc.. I'm not saying you should commit to his DIY project, as this is tehhydave's thread. Just the info behind it. https://sourceforge.net/projects/arduinofocuscontrollerpro/ Steve

I looked at one of my bolts from the same Geoptik mounting plate. They are M8 x 30mm long. Steve

I'm of a similar vein Dave albeit metal and plastics as first as a Toolmaker, then draughtsman and finally as a Chartered Engineer. Always felt best though, working with my hands. Steve

Fabulous build Dave. I hope you have many happy years imaging. How many clamps...... Steve

Wishing you a speedy recovery Gina and whilst resting no more thoughts on future projects Steve

Yes great to have you back again Gina and I hope you are sorted health wise. I want to see you imaging again, so I can see more results from the ASI1600M. Steve

Hi Mike My motor drive shaft has a tapered spline at the base of the thread. I machined my drive gear with the same taper to mate with the motor drive shaft. Using a hand press I then "pressed" the drive gear onto the motor drive shaft . This then keyed the gear to the motor. I then locked it all together with the threaded shaft extension. Steve

Absolutely, the friction caused by wrapping, what is actually a 3 turn thread, will lock the wire rope and stop it slipping. Steve