StevieDvd

Yes, I checked that out. The mesh seems to be a lot better now and the first layers are great. It's only now and then when the object is cooled and removed can a warp be seen. Last few prints were OK so I guess another warp is overdue 🤔

An update on my Ender 3 v2 purchase. Succesfully printed a few items before I started to get some warping on one corner of small projects. Bed-leveling was a bit of a hit or miss as it seemed to leave one of the spring wheels very loose. So I invested in a set of better springs and metal spring wheels and the 'sprang' for the BLTouch auto leveller too. That took some time to get correct - I even managed to bend the BLTouch probe - for some reason the firmware was adding the Z offset onto the current setting and ruining all my home position attempts. All sorted now - though still getting some small warping which I believe is down to drafts & temperature changes in the room. May need an enclosure to solve this. My best faux pas so far though was when prnting a space for mounting some venetian blinds I tried to adjust the dimensions in the slicer to make a thin version to check the screw holes aligned correctly. I managed a print that was set to 4.5mm instead of 4.5cm - it printed and you could see the 2 holes as well. The print time was so short I thought the print had jammed at the start until I moved the print head. I did manage to print the test piece which was fine and the full size spacers are now fitted. Have any of you had similar hiccups?

Not many people know of how much IBM & Microsoft have invested in Linux over the past years. Some of the products my employer owns (bought the companies to get the products) run on Linux and are used by many of the biggest banks. Interfacing these to others on Windows was fun to get running. But once established it became easy having Clouds systems with both Windows & Linux provided by the cloud providers, had many Linux setups on the MS Azure cloud. MS also provided Hyper-V with easy Linux setups for embedded VMs. Today we can run a Linux app in gui mode from the WSL in Windows 10, I hear we will soon be able to do the same with Android apps too.

Is there a good UK seller for the RockPi4? I like the fact it has a proper wifi connector on the pcb amongst other things.

Try deleting the wifi setting for the synscan_ab43 from your device and scan for it again. The 'remembered' settings can differ from the current settings if anything sugnificant has changed. I had this problem when I reset my router back to factory settings, even though I set the same ssid & password as before none of the devices would connect without being removed & reset. Can't be sure this is your problem but may be worth a try.

Hi Gina, I downloaded that same img file and used Rufus to write the sdcard using the zipped file. It works fine on my spare Pi4. I have been using 2.03 for a while, though sporadically, and have had no problems. The rufus download is OK too, but has an annoying google ad which I just cancel and the download then works. Hope that helps. Steve

Try Rufus Rufus image writer/reader it has worked for me when others did not.

You have a fair bit of duplicated technlogy in that setup. The Asiair is popular as an 'all in one' solution for newcomers with it's built in power ports and IOS/Android app (the only interface). As you know this restricts anything connected to be on of the ZWO add-ons (except some DSLRs). It is also well noted that external power can be desirable, so quite a few users add a pegasus to power other devices, and/or a USB hub as well. The metal case of the Asiair can create problems with wifi signals so another issue to consider. The pegasus can run without a software interface being used, and if the dew detector is used can set the dew settings for you, I'm only basing that on having read the specifications like you have. Have you considered either Stellarmate (has an app) which can be bought as an OS or with the Raspberry Pi already cased, or the free Astroberry OS? That way you can spend more on a Pegagus unit with power & usb support, and these will let you run the software for Pegasus and give you control of the power and dew controllers.

Try the video referenced in this SGL thread to see how PA in Ekos works Astroberry is free and uses Ekos (as does Stellarmate but the OS is not free) so it's just the Pi hardware needed. You'd need a browser to view the Pi (or an app as supplied with Stellarmate), so no laptop but a tablet or mobile and keen eyesight (younger than mine). Steve

Just caught a few minutes using projection method and some small binoculars. Mostly cloudy but did get a clear gap for just a few seconds at a time, but visible through the thinner clouds too. Missus was impressed, bu told me off for using binoculars as she thought I was going to look through them!!! Did not setup solar scope as it looked like rain around 10am onwards. But got to see something.

A case that will fit the Pi & a stepper motor hat can be found here and possibly elsewhere but I have this one. Not got a fan on it though. I have the waveshare stepper hat which also allows the Pi4 to run from the 12v port on the hat to power both Pi & stepper motor. There is an indilib driver for it available for Astroberry/Stellarmate too.

The new EAF units are made to be powered by the Asiair & AsiAirPro as well as laptops etc. Same lead for power and data to simplify usage. According to ZWO there may be a few problems with some USB hubs but the Raspberry Pi & Pegasus are enough to power the new EAF.

The orange button is to power on the powertank. Press that and the charge status lights should come on indicating how much power is in the battery. Lithium packs generally have options to power on (and auto power off) to save power.

You don't need to use the 2.5mm DSLR port that's to connect a shutter release for other cameras not fully tested (yours is). Is the 1200d a USB-C data cable? If so then yes that's the one. Settings in manual are important to note Connect the DSLR camera to ASIAIR Pro through the camera data cable. Before connecting in the app, select the following camera settings before launching the app: Camera Mode: M Shutter Mode: Bulb Image Format: RAW (RAW + JPEG not available) Image Quality: L (maximum size) In addition turn off any any power saving mode or long exposure noise reduction. If using a DSLR camera with mirror lock functions you should also turn these functions off.

Okay based on the responses above it does seem that the firmware can be changed to allow the scope to be mounted on the right-hand side. Easy to test this theory with your mount have the scope pointing north but the mount 180 degress than you had it in the video. That would put your finderscope on top and hopefully align properly. If that works but you want to mount as stated earlier (scope on left) then a firmware flash should resolve that.

All the focusers/arduinos work inside Ekos, so that's not an issue. It's that mix I will need to check - was not sure if I could mix real & simulation devices. I guess will have a try that way then. Thanks guys.

Hi James, I have oacapture on my radar 😀 The focuser & motor are both moonlite, and I do have a moonlite hand controller tucked away too. The focus controller I was intending to use would be one of the arduino based units or the Raspberry Pi shield (made by Waveshare) as these are working with Indilib drivers. The controllers work on moonite & lakeside, I used a lakeside control box/interface on Windows but wanted to cut the cabling down by having smaller aduino units on the scopes. Did not think to see if the moonlite hand-controller could work on Linux.

I know of, and own, Astrobberry, Stellarmate & AsiairPro so this may seem an odd question. For the forthcoming eclipse I wanted to tailor a remote Pi4 setup for solar. It would be using: SW solarquest solar tracking mount Coronado Solarmax 60 with moonlite focuser with stepper motor fitted Arduino with motor hat or the waveshare shield on the Pi4 Firecapture or possibly another capture software camera to be decided - DMK41 if it still does the job. By remote I mean being inside (garage or house) with setup in the garden - to save my delicate skin from the hot UK sun in our clear blue skies (fingers crossed). So I think this means I'd need the OS, the capture software and an app to handle the focusing. OR a way to use Ekos with a dummy mount - as the other parts all work in Ekos. Suggestions welcome, even if it means doing a little coding in VB or Python (for a standalone focuser app). Thanks Steve

If you do take up the EQ mode then look at either the Skywatcher wedge (or the William Optics wedge if you the cost is not offputting). The WO is good and makes alignment a little easier than the other wedges, I have one myself. Welcome to the SGL forum. Ask away with any questions - there are quite a few AZ-GTi owners here.

Don't be so harsh on yourself, there is little in the manuals to explain how to do this with an AZ-Gti. The only text in the synscan that helps a bit for new owners is: HOME POSITION OF AN ALT-AZIMUTH MOUNT: Mount tripod is leveled as indicated by its bubble level The telescope tube is leveled and points to true north By this one could assume that the telescope could be on your left or right as long as it points true north. Hopefully the mount software can handle that. However, I used the illustrations in the manual which show the scope on the left just in case that's the only side that works. Eq mode is easier in this respect.

With the mount in front of you, like in your picture and with a scope fitted on the left-side and facing away from you. Level the scope and point the telescope North (use a compass). So your picture the arrow is pointing West, not North. See here where there is a video to explain all this and more. Steve

If you watched the film with George and Sandra, did you ask them any of those questions? 😀 sorry just saying what we are all probably thinking.

On the focuser, the thumb screw is used for locking the focuser position, the two small grub screws either side of that are to increase/decrease the grip on the drawtube. There was a word document from Moonlite showing this, will see if I can find my copy or a link. Link for the Word document: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwic4vDTruLwAhXq0eAKHQ2dAnQQFjABegQIBxAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.focuser.com%2Fmedia%2FDownloads%2FService%2FMoonLite%20focuser%20adjustments.docx&usg=AOvVaw3vIjp74pohXxo8N68j5GUY

There is a nice Altair Starwave Mini AZ Mount - mini alt az mount on Astrobuysell.com/uk for £160 (not me selling). Comes with a better dovetail clamp, looks like an ADM, and extender & weight. I have the Teleskop Service equivalent and use that on a photo tripod, it takes quite a weight too. The tension in both alt/Az is good, unlike some other manual mounts.

If you can plug a network cable from your home network into the ASI then switch it on it will connect to your home network via that. You can then connect your phone to your home network and try the ASI phone app. I di not see you mentioning changing the settings on the ASI to use your home network in the threads above (may have missed it though it was a quick scan of the thread) - to change it you have to get into the app. If we can work the app using the cable network connection we can then get you going on the wifi too.